The Denver Post

Finding real Irish charm on pub crawls in Dingle

- By Dorothy Abernathy

dingle, ireland» On a trip to Europe, we went looking for some real Irish charm. We found it, in Dingle, a town of 1,200 people on Ireland’s southwest coast.

The town is known for its pubs. Dick Mack’s has a walk of fame outside that lists the celebritie­s who’ve visited, among them Dolly Parton. Foxy John’s, a beloved spot, houses an old-fashioned hardware store and a bike rental business on the premises along with the classic pub.

Some Dingle pubs offer live music, from traditiona­l Irish ballads to pop songs with an Irish flair. We started our pub tour at O’Flaherty’s, where performers played a variety of instrument­s, including guitar, banjo and accordion, along with a whistle and a handheld drum called a bodhran. Later we wandered into O’Sullivan’s Courthouse Pub, where we heard a guitarist and a flutist/vocalist.

Some of the pubs were so packed with people that we didn’t stay long. But we found seats another night at The Dingle Pub, where a singer accompanie­d himself on a guitar. He alternated ballads with songs by the likes of the Beatles and Neil Diamond. The spectators were encouraged to sing along, and many did.

During the daytime, Dingle streets bustle with tourists enjoying shops and restaurant­s. We wandered through stores selling handmade Irish woolens, jewelry, candles, souvenirs and other gift items. We enjoyed some fine lunches and dinners at restaurant­s such as the Chart House (our favorite dinner place overall), Out of the Blue Seafood and the Half Door.

On our visit in late spring, the streets seemed to grow quiet as evening neared and the pubs began to fill. In summer — high season for tourists — the town gets very crowded.

Each December, Dingle hosts an annual concert called Other Voices that features dozens of Irish and internatio­nal performers. It’s recorded for TV over three days in a tiny Protestant church. The performanc­es are edited and used on a weekly show that airs on Irish state television network RTE. The next concert takes place Dec. 2-4.

The town is compact, so everything is within walking distance. We stayed in a rented house on a hill outside of Dingle overlookin­g a sheep meadow (there seemed to be sheep everywhere), the town and the waterfront.

There’s more to do than pub crawling. Outside Dingle, visitors can take advantage of a sunny day with a driving tour of Dingle Peninsula, where you can see the ancient Dunberg Fort (the earliest features on the site date to 500 B.C.), the Blasket Islands and some lovely views of the rocky coast.

Some scenes from the next “Star Wars” movie were shot last spring on a cliff on the Dingle Peninsula. The wrap party for the cast and crew was held, where else, at Foxy John’s.

 ?? Photos by T. Duncan Abernathy, The Associated Press ?? The ancient stone Dunberg Fort sits on a promontory overlookin­g the Dingle Peninsula in Ireland. Excavation­s have dated early activity at the site to 500 B.C.
Photos by T. Duncan Abernathy, The Associated Press The ancient stone Dunberg Fort sits on a promontory overlookin­g the Dingle Peninsula in Ireland. Excavation­s have dated early activity at the site to 500 B.C.
 ??  ?? Teresa Horgan and Matt Griffin perform at O’Sullivan’s Courthouse Pub in Dingle. The town, on Ireland’s southwest coast, has a lively pub scene.
Teresa Horgan and Matt Griffin perform at O’Sullivan’s Courthouse Pub in Dingle. The town, on Ireland’s southwest coast, has a lively pub scene.

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