The Denver Post

Authentica­lly Aspen: Takealong weekend theway the locals do

Glitter Gulch, Tony Town, Fat City, Canary City … ah, Aspen. The monikers for this rich-in-history former mining enclave— with its glitz-and-glam reputation thanks to billionair­e third-homeowners, celebrity visitors, jaw-dropping real estate, gourmet dini

- By Katie Shapiro

But it’s the full-timers— from hippies, ranchers and artists to families, farmers and athletes— who’ve given the ski town its true soul over the years and still help balance the high life with real life year-round.

Whether its your first visit or you want to shake up your standard summer routine, there’s much to be discovered underneath the shiny surface. Here’s the ultimate guide to escaping expensive tourist traps and having a long weekend like a longtime local:

Stay

Some of the most epic of Airbnb rentals are found in Aspen, but plenty of listings make it doable on any budget— and that’s a good option, because there’s nothing better than having a backyard barbecue at home in the mountains.

For a throwback ski lodge experience, check into the centrally located Mountain Chalet Aspen (from $94 for a twin room), where you can take a dip in the original swimming pool, from the chalet’s opening in 1954.

333 E. Durant Ave., 970-925-7797, mountainch­aletaspen.com

WHAT TO DO Hike

You can find endless options for day hikes surroundin­g Aspen (go to aspentrail­finder.com for options), but the quintessen­tial quick locals hike is Smugglermo­untain, a 1 ½-mile climb usually done during lunch breaks.

But since you have all day, head down the backside after posing for an obligatory Observatio­n Deck photo and pick up the Hunter Creek Trail,

which loops all theway back to your starting point just off Park Circle.

The Ute Trail is another in town favorite, but takes a little more stamina to master the steep switchback­s. If you’re in great shape, take it all the way to the top of Ajax (what locals call Aspenmount­ain) and bring lunch in your pack from Butcher’s Block

(424 S. Spring St., 970-925-7554, butchersbl­ockaspen.com). Don’t worry, you can ride the Silver Queen gondola

down for free (weekends May 27June 11, daily June 17-Sept. 4, 10 a.m.-4:30 p.m.).

Paddle the river

There’s nothing quite like stand-up paddleboar­ding down North Star Nature Preserve— a protected ecosystemo­f breathtaki­ngwetlands and meadows— on a bluebird day. The preserve, on the southeast end of town, is known as the stillwater stretch of the Roaring Fork River. Rent gear from Aspen Bike Tours and Rentals (430 S. Spring St., 888-448-2330, aspenbiker­entals.com), head just 3miles east toward Independen­ce Pass forwildwoo­d School, where you put in. If you’re onlyworkin­g with one car, hitchhikin­g is the local’sway of choice to get back towhere you parked after a few-hour float. ...

Arts appreciati­on

Every summer since 1949, the Aspen Music Festival & School

(aspenmusic­festival.com) brings internatio­nally renowned musicians to the stage under the Benedict Music Tent on the Aspen Institute campus (960 N. Third St.). While purchasing tickets is a worthy philanthro­pic gesture, make like an Aspenite and pack a picnic for the great lawn, where the classical music is compliment­ary to enjoy.

The Aspen Artmuseum

(closedmond­ays; 637 E. Hyman Ave., 970-925-8050, aspenartmu­seum.org) presents innovative exhibition­s from the internatio­nal contempora­ry art scene with admission free of charge thanks to its generous donor base. It’s roof deck cafe also plays host tomovies at the Museum once a month for free cinema screenings under the stars.

Cruise

Aspen Brewing Company’s (304 E. Hopkins Ave. B, 970-9202739, aspenbrewi­ngcompany.com) weekly Tuesday Cruiseday ride (6:30 p.m., May-september) gets rowdier every year and is the best way to take a tour through all of Aspen town. Starting at the Tap Room (drink here, too, during your stay), the pedal posse makes stops at Marolt Open Space, Triangle Park in thewest End and ends at Smuggler Park. Byo-bike from home or rent one from any one of the locally owned bike shops.

Shop

The U-shaped Aspen Saturday Market (Hopkins Avenue and Galena Street, aspenchamb­er.org) takes over the heart of downtown every Saturday (8 a.m.-3 p.m. from mid-june to mid-october) with a sea of tents stocked with locally grown produce, freshly baked breads and artisan-made wares.

Only in Aspen will you find such a treasure trove of discarded designer duds and vintagewar­es up for thrifting. Locals line up outside waiting for The Thrift Shop of Aspen’s (422 E. Hopkins Ave., 970925-3121, aspenthrif­tshop.org) allvolunte­er staff to open up its doors every morning at 10 a.m. (closed Sundays) for their pick of the luxury litterwith proceeds benefiting the area’s nonprofits.

Eat and drink

Built in 1892, the historic Red Onion (420 E. Cooper Ave., 970925-9955, redonionas­pen.com) is now famed for its original, ornate hand-carved bar, happy hour spe- cials, live music, Mexican-inspired menu and wild late-night scene (yes, there are shot skis).

But the favorite hangout for live music is the Belly Up Aspen (450 S. Galena St., 970- 544-9800, bellyupasp­en.com), which, outside of its pricey headliner tickets, mixes in plenty of local bands and concerts on the calendar with no cover.

Befriend a local to score a coveted invite to the members-onlyaspen Elks Lodge #224 (510 E. Hyman Ave. #300, 970-925-9071, aspenelks.com) for the cheapest drinks, bar food and billiards in town.

Locals gather every morning for high-fives on the patio or catching up at the community table at Jour de Fête (710 E. Durant Ave., 970925-5055, jourdefete­aspen.com), family owned and operated since 1988. Owner Oliviermot­tier’s French roots show on the breakfast and lunch menus, but the chorizo burrito here is the go-to.

Walking alonghyman Avenue Mall, Annette’smountain Bakeshop (420 E. Hyman Ave., 970-544-1806) is a blink-and-youmight-miss-it storefront, with the most heavenly hot-out-of-the-oven pastries, doughnuts, bagels and cookies inside. Owners Annette and Serafino Docimo do it all from scratch themselves and alternate their signature sandwich specials every day of theweek.

Get your burger fix at 520 Grill (520 E. Cooper Ave., 970-925-9788, 520grill.com) with a side of sweet potato fries. Meanwhile health nuts can obsess over the kale, quinoa and ahi tuna salad.

For a night out, Meat & Cheese (319 E. Hopkins Ave., 970-710-7120, meatandche­eseaspen.com) makes for a special meal of award-winning “world farmhouse” cuisine, creative craft cocktails and toopretty-to-eat charcuteri­e boards.

For late night, the party always ends at New York Pizza (409 E. Hyman Ave #B, 970-920-3088) for cheap slices until 2:30 a.m.

 ??  ?? A woman jumps into the Devil’s Punchbowl on the Roaring Fork River.
Provided by Aspen Chamber Resort Associatio­n
A woman jumps into the Devil’s Punchbowl on the Roaring Fork River. Provided by Aspen Chamber Resort Associatio­n
 ??  ?? Five blocks of Aspen’s downtown is closed to vehicle traffic, making it a pedestrian-friendly environmen­t for dining, shopping and socializin­g.
Photos provided by Aspen Chamber Resort Associatio­n
Five blocks of Aspen’s downtown is closed to vehicle traffic, making it a pedestrian-friendly environmen­t for dining, shopping and socializin­g. Photos provided by Aspen Chamber Resort Associatio­n
 ??  ?? Wildflower­s grace the meadow outside the Benedict Music Tent and Harris Concert Hall in Aspen.
Wildflower­s grace the meadow outside the Benedict Music Tent and Harris Concert Hall in Aspen.

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