Fall lawn and tree care; planting bulbs
We’re in the gradual wind-down to the outdoor gardening season, confirmed by the autumnal equinox next week. Embrace the color changes and sweater weather and focus on your plants — they need attention before their long winter snooze. In the landscape We’re dry; our plants are probably dry, too. It’s been weeks since deep, soaking rains have hydrated plant roots and washed off webbing on evergreens.
The number one fall plant chore is to make sure all tree, shrub and perennial plants are deeply watered before the weather changes — and it can change quickly, as the November Polar Vortex of 2014 taught us. Dry roots going into winter often lead to compromised plants, or death.
Pay attention to newly planted trees first. Water the drip line area around the entire tree. Use a soil probe or screwdriver to make sure water has soaked down several inches. Then move on to other trees and shrubs, then perennials. To water, use “soak and cycle” with automatic sprinkler systems or move a hose-end sprinkler every 10 minutes or so around the plants.
Indoor plants that have been enjoying being outside need to go back indoors soon, when nighttime temperatures remain below 50 degrees. Get them acclimated to lower light conditions by moving them to shady areas for several days.
Before their move indoors, if possible, lift the rootball and check for hitchhiking insects such as ants, pill bugs and grasshoppers. Treat with insecticidal soaps or systemic products for scale insects, white fly and spider mites. Remove damaged or leggy growth. Repot overgrown plants to a slightly larger container. Give them a light fertilizer before moving indoors. Yellowing or leaf drop is normal until plants get used to being indoors again.
Bulbs
Bulbs are inexpensive, low care and a welcome sign of spring. Plant now through October so they root well before the ground freezes.
Look for firm, plump, healthy bulbs in garden centers. They should feel solid with no bruises, soft spots or sour odor.
Shop for mail ordered bulbs for a broader selection — plus they generally arrive in great condition for immediate planting.
Soil preparation is important for bloom success. They prefer loose, amended soil for room to grow with good drainage. Use a phosphorus or balanced fertilizer (5-10-5) in the planting hole.
Use animal-repellent pellets in the planting hole or a metal screen over bulbs if critters are a problem.
Plant depth is three to four times the height of the bulb, pointy side up. If in doubt what side is up, lay on its side. Plant 2 inches deeper for sandy soils.
For large area planting, remove enough soil to accommodate all the bulbs. Fertilizer and compost can be added to the entire area prior to placing the bulbs. Scatter or place in groups; avoid planting in single rows.
Water the bulbs after planting and water through the fall and winter, every 3-4 weeks, if moisture is scarce.
Label bulb plantings or make a drawing so they aren’t disturbed.
Plant garlic in the fall for the best bulb growth and development; harvest next summer. Purchase healthy planting stock from garden centers or online, or use the best and largest bulbs harvested this past summer to use as planting stock. Fertilize the planting area; loosen the soil. Separate the bulbs and plant each clove pointy side up, 3 inches deep. Mulch and water well; water through the winter if dry.
Fall lawn care Heading into winter with a stressed lawn means more work next spring.
Fall is the time to remove weeds, aerate and overseed thinned out or tired lawns if needed, and fertilize.
Problem perennial weeds like dandelion, plantain and bindweed put down deep roots in the fall to get them through the winter. Remove now before they return next year larger and in greater numbers.
Hand-digging weeds is immediate and gratifying. Spot treat carefully with herbicides protecting nearby flowers, shrubs and trees. Read product labels for application information.
If overseeding lawns, purchase newer, more drought-tolerant grass seed varieties. They will eventually overtake the old, tired turf. These seeds are sold specifically to local retailers (not box stores) and bred to tackle tough life in sunny, dry Colorado.
Match your current turf species and requirements (sunlight, kid and or dog play activity, etc.) to the new seed by reading the description on the seed bin, ask for help if needed.
Deeply water the lawn a day or two before aerating the lawn. It should be moist a couple of inches deep, but not soggy. Flag any sprinkler heads to avoid damage.
With a core aerator, make several passes in crisscrossing directions, creating holes 2 inches apart (think Swiss cheese), and pull plugs 2 to 3 inches deep.
After aerating, fill a drop spreader with the new grass seed and spread in two different directions over the aerated lawn. Error on the side that more seed is better to drop in the holes.
Follow overseeding with fertilizer using the same drop spreader. Do not use a weed-and-feed type fertilizer after overseeding.
Water immediately and water often, up to two times a day if temperatures are warm. Seeds must be moist to sprout and get growing. Too much water will create a soggy lawn and poor germination.
Next May or June is the time to seed and fertilize warm-season buffalo, blue grama grasses or plant DOG TUFF plugs.
Whether fall overseeding or not, apply 1 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet of cool-season grass before the ground freezes — while the grass is still green.
For dead spots in the lawn, first loosen the area with a rake or garden fork and remove any rocks, debris and weeds. Spot aerate if possible. Add a thin layer of compost (a half-inch or so) over the bald spots, followed by spreading grass seed thickly over the area. Loosely cover with weed-free straw (available at garden centers) to help keep the area moist.
Water regularly until the grass is an inch tall. No need to mow for several weeks.