On the Ruta del Vino, dusty roads and fine wines
ENSENADA, MEXICO» Wine lovers, listen up: There’s a little-known gem just south of the border called Valle de Guadalupe.
It’s a bit dustier and rougher around the edges than California’s prized Napa Valley, but Baja’s wine country offers a relaxed, unpretentious, budget-friendly experience clustered along a main highway in this region of Mexico known as the Ruta del Vino.
The fast-growing wine mecca just two hours south of San Diego is home to hip boutique hotels, an impressive culinary scene and more than 100 wineries to satisfy the most discerning of aficionados.
The greenest and busiest time to visit is May through September, but other months welcome serious connoisseurs looking for a quieter trip with more personal attention — often from the winemakers themselves. Add in a few crisp evenings spent sipping your favorite chardonnay by a fire pit and you’ve got yourself a memorable wine getaway with a fraction of the fuss.
Where to taste wine
Vinas de Garza: This romantic hilltop tasting room has some of the best views in the valley. Tastings range from $10-$16. MEXICO » 9E
Don’t leave without trying the Blanco del Rancho Mogorcito, a delightful sauvignon blanc-chardonnay blend that delivers bright, fruity, unoaked flavors ($17.10 per bottle).
Hacienda la Lomita:
Family-run Lomita, and its biodynamic sister location, Finca La Carrodilla, are committed to organic farming. Lomita’s tiny, but trendy tasting room is known for its artsy ambiance and ruby red rose, a marshmallow and caramel flavored dream ($11.82 per bottle). Tastings range from $12-$21.
Villa Montef iori: Set back off the main road, Montefiori’s tasting room is a large viewing deck perched above its sprawling vineyard. They boast “Mexican wines with an Italian heart” with vines imported from owner Paolo Paoloni’s home country, Italy. Try a glass for $4, tastings range from $6-$24 and bottles run $16-$64.
Monte Xanic: This lakeside oasis is owned by a collective of Mexican families. It’s one of the largest, oldest and wellmanicured properties in the area. The winery’s dry and fruity malbec ($37 per bottle) was a standout. Tastings are $10-$17 and bottles range from $12-$53.
Food finds
Come for the wine, but stay for the food. Valle de Guadalupe’s restaurants serve up artistic, creative haute cuisine with a more palatable price than a comparable meal stateside.
Finca Altozano: This rustic, Instagram-friendly, steakhouse whips up locally sourced, seasonal delights like wood-fired quall ($13.25) and ahi tuna tostadas ($5). The most memorable meal of the trip was Finca’s grilled pacific octopus ($8.75) in a mouth-watering citrus soy sauce. Don’t forget to check out the gorgeous grounds and the largerthan-life wine barrel viewing decks, perfect for stargazing with a nightcap.
Adobe Food Truck: For
a casual lunch with outdoor seating, stop by this popular food truck serving sandwiches, salads and tapas. Many plates are $5 or less.
Deckman’s: Dine under the stars with an outdoor kitchen helmed by Michelin-starred chef Drew Deckman. The locally grown, farm-to-table fare includes Thai curry mussels ($12.75) and a fivecourse tasting menu for $39.80.
Hip hotels
Though gourmet food is a steal in Valle, expect fewer frills and pricier rates from the boutique hotels popping up throughout the area.
Villas Maglen: This newly built, centrally located hotel has six desertchic villas grouped around fire pits, a small pool and an onsite restaurant.
Adobe Guadalupe:
Explore the valley’s vineyards via horseback while staying in this stunning, hacienda-style hotel. Encuentro Guadalupe:
This unique property offers 22 modern, ecofriendly pods with sweeping vineyard views.