Drink rosé and pretend it’s spring

Is it spring yet? Daffodils valiantly channel sunshine, as they duck and weave in winter’s defiant, malevolent glare.

Meanwhile, I’ve spent those several crucial minutes before dinner each night with a full-bodied red in one hand and a racy white or rosé in the other, trying to decide between the seasons.

When Mother Nature is caught between winter and spring like she has these past few weeks, there’s nothing we can do but shake our heads and decide to live our lives as if the seasons are progressing as they should. And that means we drink rosé, crisp whites and light, refreshing reds.

Not that we can’t drink those wines year-round, of course. But as farmers markets begin to offer spring’s produce and our menus become simpler, fresher and lighter, so should our wines. Here are some to seek out:

• Rosé. This is a nobrainer. The new crop from 2017 has been flooding retail shelves since February, as rosé’s surge in popularity the past few years has producers rushing their wines to market. Rosé’s freshness (acidity), fruitiness and lightness make it an ideal warmweather wine, either for sipping or with food. Anb there may be no better partner with garlicky or spicy hot dishes.

While 2015 and 2016 were fantastic vintages throughout much of Europe, I found many rosés from those vintages uneven in quality. The 2017s I’ve tasted so far have been excellent.

• Unoaked white wines. Think sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley in France and Marlborough in New Zealand. Or chenin blanc from South Africa. Spanish albarino from Rias Baixas or verdejo from Rueda also fit the bill. And don’t forget Rieslings, especially from Germany’s Mosel, with their low alcohol and slight sweetness to match their acidity.

Italy could fill this entire category. Not just the obvious pinot grigio, but the fascinating, diverse wines from grechetto, fiano, Verdicchio, garganega (Soave) and arneis grapes offer an array of flavors and food pairing possibilities.

Does white wine mean chardonnay to you? Consider an unoaked version from Macon or Chablis in France, or a lighter New World chard made with little or no wood.

• Red wines. Cotes-duRhone, typically a blend based on Grenache, is an ideal all-weather red, and it is a great partner for grilled meats. Spanish reds from garnacha (the same grape) and Portuguese blends based on touriga also do especially well this time of year.

If you just have to savor a big, tannic cabernet, save it for that thick steak from the grill, and give it a slight chill to moderate the alcohol. But please consider the exceptional petit chateau Bordeaux reds from 2015 and 2016 for their complexity and value.

Here’s a fun sleeper wine to surprise you and your friends: Lambrusco. These sparkling reds from northern Italy are ideal with charcuterie. So for any meal involving cold cuts, consider chilling a Lambrusco. These are also great pizza wines.

• Sparkling wines. Champagne is always welcome, but it needn’t be pricey. A Spanish cava, Italian prosecco or inexpensive domestic fizz will help you celebrate a minor victory at the office, the end of a long commute home — or a spectacular summer sunset.