Gumbo with all of the flavor but not all of the fat
Under ordinary circumstances, I wouldn’t include a gumbo recipe in this column, especially one that starts by requiring toasting flour in the oven for 40 to 55 minutes. But this major health crisis has us stuck at home, so I figure that the formula loses some of its time restrictions. While the flour is in the oven, prep all the remaining ingredients.
The recipe is from the folks at America’s Test Kitchen, the outfit that tests and tests recipes, then tests them some more. Rather than starting the gumbo with a wet roux, a cooked mix of flour and fat (that can take more than an hour), they start by making a dry roux using oven-toasted flour. No fat in the roux. Imagine.
Chicken and Sausage Gumbo
Yield: 6 servings
Ingredients
1 cup (5 ounces) all-purpose
flour
1 tablespoon vegetable oil 1 onion, finely chopped
1 green bell pepper, seeded,
finely chopped
2 celery ribs, finely chopped 3 garlic cloves, minced
2 bay leaves
1 tablespoon minced fresh
thyme (or 1 teaspoon dried) 1 teaspoon ground paprika ½ teaspoon ground cayenne
pepper
¼ teaspoon salt and ¼ ground
black pepper
4 cups chicken broth, room
temperature, divided use 2 pounds boneless skinless
chicken thighs
8 ounces andouille sausage (or kielbasa), sliced into ¼-inch thick half moons
6 green onions, thinly sliced 1 teaspoon distilled white
vinegar
Hot sauce, to taste
Directions
Adjust oven rack to middle position; heat oven to 425 degrees. Place flour in an ovenproof 12-inch skillet and bake, stirring occasionally, until color of ground cinnamon or dark brown sugar, 40 to 55 minutes. (As flour approaches desired color it will take on very nutty aroma that will smell faintly like burnt popcorn and it will need to be stirred more frequently.) Transfer flour to medium bowl and cool. (Cooled toasted flour can be stored in airtight container for up to 1 week.)
Heat oil in Dutch oven over medium heat until shimmering. Add onion, bell pepper and celery; cook, stirring frequently, until softened, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in garlic, bay leaves, thyme, paprika, cayenne, salt and pepper; cook about 1 minute. Stir in 2 cups broth. Add chicken in single layer (pieces will not be completely submerged in liquid) and bring to simmer. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer until chicken is fork-tender, 15 to 17 minutes. Transfer chicken to a plate.
Slowly whisk remaining broth into toasted flour in the bowl, until thick, batter-like paste forms. (Add broth in small increments to prevent clumps from forming.) Return pot to medium heat and slowly whisk flour paste into gumbo, making sure each addition is incorporated before adding next. Stir sausage into gumbo. Simmer, uncovered, until gumbo thickens slightly, 20 to 25 minutes.
Once cool enough to handle, using 2 forks, shred chicken into bite-sized pieces. Stir chicken and green onions into gumbo. Remove pot from heat and stir in vinegar and season with salt to taste. Discard bay leaves. Serve, passing hot sauce separately. (Gumbo can be refrigerated up to 24 hours.)