The Denver Post

Brilliant seafood recipes for everyone who hates doing dishes

- Malosh, © The New York Times Co. David

Whether you like cooking, love it or are indifferen­t to the task, most of us can agree that washing a lot of pots and pans after dinner is a drag. Wouldn’t it instead be easier if there were really only one? One skillet or one Dutch oven, one sheet pan, one pot? Wouldn’t that be great?

That’s why the editors of NYT Cooking have put together this modest (and beautiful), widerangin­g (and tightly focused) collection of recipes devoted to the celebratio­n of one-vessel cooking, on the stovetop and in the oven.

— Sam Sifton, founding editor

of NYT Cooking Slow-roasted citrus salmon with herb salad

Alison Roman is behind this recipe for fail-safe dinner-party excellence, in which a large piece of fatty salmon is slowly roasted in a generous amount of olive oil, beneath a cloak of herbs. The fat-on-fat technique makes it nearly impossible to overcook the fish. Plus, you can flavor the oil with whatever you fancy — spices, herbs, citrus, chiles — which, in turn, will flavor the fish. It’s one of those dishes that sits perfectly in the center of a Venn diagram where “looks impressive” and “not a ton of work” overlap.

Time: 35 minutes

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Ingredient­s 1 (1½-pound) piece of skinless salmon

fillet (or halibut or cod)

Kosher salt and black pepper

2 lemons, Meyer or regular, thinly sliced, plus 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1 blood orange, mandarin orange or

regular orange, thinly sliced

6 sprigs thyme, rosemary, oregano or

marjoram (optional)

1½ cups olive oil

2 cups fresh herbs, such as parsley, cilantro, dill and tarragon, roughly picked from the stem

Flaky sea salt

Directions

Heat oven to 300 degrees. Season salmon with salt and pepper on both sides. Place in a large baking dish with

sliced lemons, orange and thyme (or rosemary, oregano or marjoram), if using.

Drizzle everything with olive oil and bake until salmon is just turning opaque at the edges and is nearly cooked through, 25 to 35 minutes.

Toss fresh herbs with 1 tablespoon lemon juice and flaky salt. Serve alongside salmon.

Tips:

Bathing a large piece of fish in a lot of oil, then slowly cooking it, works well with cod and halibut, also with yellowfin tuna. We love it best with salmon, though.

Store any leftover fish in the oil you cooked it in to keep it from drying out. Later, you can use it to elevate a salad or a bagel with cream cheese. Salmon with Potatoes and Horseradis­h-Tarragon Sauce

Joan Nathan adapted this recipe from one George Lang had in his 1971 cookbook, “The Cuisine of Hungary,” which he said dated from the 18th century. It layers roast potatoes with just-tender baked salmon and a swipe of horseradis­h sauce. You could substitute the potatoes with carrots, beets or other root vegetables, or you could play around with more tender vegetables like zucchini or fennel, though you’ll want to slice them more thickly and reduce the cooking time in the first step. The horseradis­h sauce keeps the fish moist and gives the dish its brightness, pairing horseradis­h’s peppery punch with tangy sour cream and fresh herbs. Time: 45 minutes

Yield: 4 to 6 servings

Ingredient­s 2 tablespoon­s unsalted butter 3 medium Yukon Gold potatoes (about

1 pound), unpeeled

Kosher salt and black pepper

½ cup chopped shallots

1 cup sour cream or Greek yogurt

cup drained prepared horseradis­h 3 tablespoon­s tarragon

3 tablespoon­s minced chives

teaspoon white pepper (optional) 2 pounds boneless, skinless salmon or

halibut fillet

1 teaspoon hot paprika

Directions

Heat oven to 400 degrees and liberally grease a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish with butter. Slice the potatoes paper-thin (less than k-inch thick) and line the dish with the potatoes, slightly overlappin­g them as you arrange them in an even layer. Season generously with salt and pepper, dot with the shallots and bake until the potatoes are almost cooked through, about 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, prepare the horseradis­h-tarragon sauce: Add the sour cream, prepared horseradis­h, 2 tablespoon­s each tarragon and chives, the white pepper (if using) and 1 teaspoon salt to a medium bowl and stir to combine. Refrigerat­e. (This makes about 1L cups.)

Sprinkle the salmon with the paprika and season with salt. Remove the dish from the oven and gently place the salmon on top of the potatoes. Brush 2 to 3 tablespoon­s of the horseradis­h-tarragon sauce over the salmon to coat, then bake until the fish flakes with a fork, 15 to 20 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillet.

Sprinkle the fish with the remaining 1 tablespoon each tarragon and chives. Serve with the remaining horseradis­h-tarragon sauce.

Tip: You could use halibut or cod in

place of the salmon. Tomato-Poached Fish with Chile Oil and Herbs

Poaching boneless, skinless fillets in a brothy sauce is a foolproof (and undeniably delicious) method for cooking fish. For this recipe, Alison Roman suggests meaty, mildflavor­ed, firm-fleshed varieties like cod, haddock, pollock, halibut or flounder. Her flavorful sauce, made from burst cherry (or other small) tomatoes, sizzled shallots and toasted garlic, has a summery vibe, but you could substitute a can of peeled tomatoes in the depths of winter, or whenever you can’t find good, fresh tomatoes.

Time: 25 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredient­s ¼ cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling 4 garlic cloves, thinly sliced

1 small shallot, thinly sliced into rings 1 teaspoon red-pepper flakes

1 pound small, sweet tomatoes,

halved

Kosher salt and black pepper 1 teaspoon fish sauce (optional) 1¼ pounds fluke, halibut or cod, cut

into 4 equal pieces

1 cup cilantro, leaves and tender

stems

½ cup mint, leaves and tender stems Limes, halved, for serving

Tortillas, toast or rice, for serving

(optional)

Directions

Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a large skillet (use one with a lid) over medium-high. Add garlic and shallots and cook, swirling the skillet constantly until they start to toast and turn light golden brown, 2 minutes or so. Add red-pepper flakes and swirl to toast for a few seconds. Remove from heat and transfer all but 1 tablespoon of the chile oil to a small bowl.

Add tomatoes to the skillet and season with salt and pepper. Cook, tossing occasional­ly, until they burst and start to become saucy and jammy, 5 to 8 minutes. Add fish sauce, if using, and 1½ cups water, swirling to release any of the bits stuck on the bottom of the skillet.

Cook until the sauce is slightly thickened but still nice and brothy, 3 to 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.

Season the fish with salt and pepper and gently lay the pieces in the brothy tomatoes. Cover the skillet and cook until the fish is opaque and just cooked through, 4 to 6 minutes (slightly longer for a thicker piece of fish, like halibut).

To serve, transfer fish and brothy tomatoes to a large shallow bowl or divide among four bowls. Drizzle with reserved chile oil, more olive oil and the crispy shallots and garlic. Top with cilantro and mint, and serve with limes for squeezing over the top. Serve with tortillas, toast or rice, if you like.

Tip: The cilantro, mint and limes at the end are absolutely crucial to the success of the dish. They add a real pop of freshness at the end. That said, try it sometime with dill! Roasted Fish with Sweet Peppers

Quick to make and very pretty to behold, this weeknight recipe from Melissa Clark has more verve than most. The roasted bell peppers turn sweet and golden, while olives add a salty note that goes nicely with the mild, flaky fish and a garlicky parsley dressing. Cod or flounder make fine substitute­s if you can’t find hake, though you may have to adjust the roasting time. The thicker the fillets, the longer they will take to cook. Time: 40 minutes

Yield: 3 to 4 servings

Ingredient­s 1 small bunch lemon thyme or regular

thyme

1½ pounds hake fillets

Fine sea salt and black pepper

3 large bell peppers, preferably 1 red,

1 orange and 1 yellow, thinly sliced 4½ tablespoon­s extra-virgin olive oil,

plus more for drizzling

¼ cup pitted, sliced black or green

olives, or a combinatio­n

1 teaspoon sherry vinegar, plus more

to taste

1 garlic clove, grated

1 cup loosely packed Italian parsley

leaves, chopped

Directions

Heat oven to 400 degrees. Pull 1 tablespoon thyme leaves off the bunch and finely chop.

Season fish all over with a large pinch or two of salt and pepper and rub with chopped thyme leaves. Let rest at room temperatur­e while you prepare peppers.

Spread peppers on a rimmed sheet pan, and toss with 1½ tablespoon­s oil, ½ teaspoon salt and the black pepper to taste. Top peppers with the remaining thyme sprigs. Roast, tossing occasional­ly, until peppers are softened and golden at the edges, 15 to 20 minutes.

Increase oven temperatur­e to 500 degrees. Push peppers to the edges of the pan, clearing a space in the center. Lay fish out on that empty space and drizzle with oil. Scatter olives over the top of fish and peppers. Roast until fish turns opaque and is just cooked through, 6 to 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make a vinaigrett­e by combining vinegar, garlic and a pinch of salt in a bowl. Whisk in remaining 3 tablespoon­s olive oil, then whisk in parsley. Taste and add more salt or vinegar, or both, if needed. Serve fish and peppers drizzled with vinaigrett­e. Tips:

You could add some sliced small potatoes as you roast the peppers, if you want some starch in the meal.

You might swap in capers for the olives, or add a sprinkle of red-pepper flakes for fire.

Shrimp Scampi with Orzo

The universal appeal of shrimp scampi is as much the pan sauce as it is the shrimp: garlicky butter lightened with white wine and bursts of lemon, parsley and red-pepper flakes. Scampi is often tossed with pasta or served with crusty bread, but this version from Ali Slagle uses quick-cooking orzo instead. It simmers directly in the pan sauce, developing a starchy gloss and soaking up the garlicky scampi flavors. It all comes together in a flash, and feels effortless.

Time: 25 minutes

Yield: 4 servings

Ingredient­s 1 pound large shrimp, peeled and

deveined

3 tablespoon­s extra-virgin olive oil 1 tablespoon lemon zest, plus 1

tablespoon juice (from 1 lemon) ½ teaspoon red-pepper flakes

Kosher salt and black pepper

4 garlic cloves, minced

2 tablespoon­s unsalted butter

1 cup orzo

cup dry white wine

2 cups boiling water, seafood stock or

chicken stock

3 tablespoon­s finely chopped parsley

Directions

In a medium bowl, stir together shrimp, 1 tablespoon olive oil, lemon zest, red-pepper flakes, ½ teaspoon salt, ¼ teaspoon pepper and half the garlic. Set aside to marinate. (This step can be done up to 1 hour in advance.)

Add butter, remaining olive oil and remaining garlic to a medium skillet set over medium heat. When the butter starts to bubble, add the orzo and ½ teaspoon salt and cook, stirring often, until the orzo is toasted, about 2 minutes, adjusting the heat as necessary to prevent the garlic from burning. Carefully add the wine — it will bubble — and stir until absorbed, about 1 minute. Stir in water, reduce heat to low, cover, and cook until orzo is al dente, about 12 minutes.

Add the shrimp in a snug, even layer on top of the orzo, cover, and cook until all the shrimp is pink and cooked through, 2 to 4 minutes. Remove from heat and let sit, covered, 2 minutes.

Sprinkle with parsley and lemon juice, season with salt and pepper, and serve immediatel­y.

 ?? Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriot, © The New York Times Co. ?? Tomato-poached fish with chile oil and herbs.
Michael Graydon & Nikole Herriot, © The New York Times Co. Tomato-poached fish with chile oil and herbs.
 ?? Romulo Yanes, © The New York Times Co.
Linda Xiao, © The New York Times Co. ?? Shrimp scampi with orzo.
Romulo Yanes, © The New York Times Co. Linda Xiao, © The New York Times Co. Shrimp scampi with orzo.
 ??  ?? Sheet-pan roasted fish with sweet peppers,
Sheet-pan roasted fish with sweet peppers,
 ??  ?? Slow-roasted citrus salmon with herb salad.
Slow-roasted citrus salmon with herb salad.
 ?? Andrew Scrivani, © The New York Times Co. ?? Salmon with potatoes and horseradis­h-tarragon sauce.
Andrew Scrivani, © The New York Times Co. Salmon with potatoes and horseradis­h-tarragon sauce.

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