The Denver Post

Australia finds silver linings in its remoteness

- By Damien Cave

SYDNEY » They used to call it “the tyranny of distance.” Australia’s remoteness was something to escape, and for generation­s, the country that hates being referred to as “Down Under” has been rushing toward the world. Trade and immigratio­n made Australian­s richer than the Swiss, creating a culture where life can be complete only with overseas trips and imported purchases.

Until the pandemic. The virus has turned this outgoing nation into a hermit. Australia’s borders are closed, internatio­nally and between several states. Its economy is smaller, and its population growth has fallen to its lowest rate in more than 100 years.

Rather than chafing against isolation, though, Australian­s these days are more willing to smile in the mirror. Island living looks like a privilege when the world is pestilent. Those gnawing questions about travel, recession and the loss of global experience are being shoved down, below a more immediate appreciati­on for home and a search for silver linings.

In dozens of interviews, Australian­s have said they’re quite happy with their country’s response to the pandemic. Even with travel rules so strict they seem like something out of China or North Korea. Even with a 111- day lockdown in Australia’s second- largest city of Melbourne, which just finally ended. Even when the people kept away are grandparen­ts longing to see new grandchild­ren.

That’s the case for Jane Harper, a best- selling novelist in Melbourne, who has traded getting to know every building in her neighborho­od for seeing her parents in Britain. “I had my second child in November, and they would have come out at least once and possibly twice by now,” she said. “Not knowing when that will lift — I guess it gives us more appreciati­on for how lucky we are to be able to visit in normal times, and it makes you realize how far away Australia really is.”

Not that she would have it any other way. After so much isolation, she added, “there is a real sense among Australian­s that we can dig deep and help each other deal with whatever is facing us.”

Many other countries also have cut themselves off from their neighbors, and other island nations ( Singapore, Japan, New Zealand) have kept the virus in check. But in Australia, the smaller circle is more intertwine­d with the pursuit of safety.

Coronaviru­s deaths remain under 1,000. Schools and restaurant­s are open, sports are being played, and friends are gathering for dinner parties. But people stick to where they can drive and what they know, and a lot of work still occurs from home.

Forced into a bell jar existence, many Australian­s are focusing on what they love about their country. The collectivi­st spirit. The fresh food. The beaches and small towns that equal or supersede the beauty of anywhere else.

“It’s been kind of fun to see domestic travel go crazy again,” said Fred Siggins, 39, the brand manager for Sullivans Cove, a whiskey distillery in Tasmania. “That’s how it was in the ’ 90s before everyone started hiking off to Bali or whatever.”

Australia’s mood also seems to be benefiting from another reversal — many of those who had taken their ambitions to New York, London or Los Angeles have returned.

Edwina Throsby, head of Talks and Ideas for the Sydney Opera

House, said she knew several academics and creative types who had come home and now intended to stay. Like many others, she wondered if an Australian cultural renaissanc­e might follow.

At the very least, self- reflection seems to be blooming.

In one small sign among many, Australia’s most prestigiou­s portrait prize in contempora­ry art was awarded this year, for the first time, to an Aboriginal artist, Vincent Namatjira.

On a recent morning at the Art Gallery of New South Wales, his large- scale self- portrait with a well- known Indigenous Australian football player drew a cluster of avid fans, young and old.

The gallery featuring Asian art was far less crowded.

Each exhibit hall had a plaque outside showing the maximum number of people allowed in because of coronaviru­s restrictio­ns. Masks were not required ( Sydney is mostly virus- free), and visitors respected the rules. They booked a time in advance and stayed distanced.

Michael Brand, the museum’s director, who previously ran the J. Paul Getty Museum in Los Angeles, said it pointed to how the pandemic was making people more thoughtful users of time and space. Maybe fewer options and more planning will “liberate our minds,” he said.

Harper, who published a new novel, “The Survivors,” in September, said she had also been encouraged by larger- than- usual audiences for her readings online.

“There are so many people there who would never come to an in- person book event,” she said.

Some surprising businesses are adapting, too. Frank Theodore, a fishmonger at the Sydney Fish Market, upgraded his Get Fish website after a bleak April and said total sales were up this October compared with last October.

And yet the virtual has its limits. Harper’s parents can’t hug their grandchild­ren over Zoom. Brand has started posting photos to Instagram of past trips with the phrase “museums I’m missing during the pandemic.”

 ?? Getty Images Darrian Traynor, ?? Diners enjoy outdoor seating at a cafe Wednesday after lockdown restrictio­ns were lifted in Melbourne, Australia.
Getty Images Darrian Traynor, Diners enjoy outdoor seating at a cafe Wednesday after lockdown restrictio­ns were lifted in Melbourne, Australia.

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