The Denver Post

Blazing Chicken Shack II’S soul food is a family affair

- By John Wenzel jwenzel@ denverpost. com

Editor’s note: This is part of The Know’s series, Staff Favorites. Each week, we offer our opinions on the best that Colorado has to offer for dining, shopping, entertainm­ent, outdoor activities and more. ( We’ll also let you in on some hidden gems).

I was lucky enough to move to Northeast Denver from Capitol Hill in the early 2010s, when housing prices were low and a handful of neighborho­od favorites still remained — undisturbe­d by landlords who would soon jack up rents and renovate storefront­s to attract yoga studios, CBD retailers and condo developers.

Minus the condos, that didn’t pan out so great. The drive pushed out mainstays from this formerly working- class, fast- gentrifyin­g residentia­l area such as A& A Fish Market at 29th and Fairfax streets, or Cora Faye’s Cafe ( formerly Colorado and 29th, now in Aurora).

It’s an outpost in this neighborho­od surrounded by a grocerysto­re desert and bordered mostly by fast food. North Park Hill has a rich and complex history that runs from activism and redlined housing discrimina­tion to beautiful parades, parties and parks springing from the historical­ly Black culture. Blazing Chicken Shack II, as it turns out, is located in a strip mall in one of the city’s most infamous corners — 33rd and Holly streets, where “The Holly” documentar­y is set — but has been holding it down for nearly a decade now.

Profession­als, road crews and neighborho­od elders trickle into the barstool- laden spot just before lunch, Tuesdays through Saturdays, ordering meals that arrive steaming hot and in huge portions. I’m a fairly pedestrian guy; my go- tos are the catfish meal ( with fried okra and French fries), the half- chicken fried chicken meal, and spare ribs and wings. I didn’t grow up eating oxtail, pork neck- bone and pig

other is Kerry Brougher, a writer and curator who has worked prestigiou­s gigs at the Smithsonia­n’s Hirshhorn Museum and at the Museum of Contempora­ry Art Los Angeles.

Each brings a solid reputation, and both are the sort of profession­als artists want to get noticed by. When Emmanuel put out its invitation to artists across the state, the jurors were featured prominentl­y on the cover page with headshots and thorough bios that promoted their credential­s. No doubt, that inspired the large number of entries — a whopping 1,400 — that were submitted. From that, and some keen decision- making by the out- of- town judges, came a show that is a cut above the usual open- call effort.

These shows — built around geography rather than a strong curatorial concept — can be ordinary, even boring, but “Made in Colorado” is enlivened by quality.

There are strong regional names on the walls and floors of Emmanuel, a former church that is now the visual arts headquarte­rs of Auraria Campus on the edge of downtown. There is also a small sampling of spillover work installed at Emmanuel’s satellite space, the CU Denver Experience Gallery, on the grounds of the Denver Performing Arts Complex.

On the roster: paintings and drawings by Gregg Deal, Melissa Furness, Margaret Kasahara and Trine Bumiller; photos from Gretchen Marie Schaffer and Eric Hagemann; threedimen­sional pieces from Floyd Tunson, Amber Cobb, Jennifer Pettus, Lauri Lynnxe Murphy and Matthew Harris; and video by Christophe­r Coleman and Noah Phillips.

That is, for sure, a long list of mentions, but these are the artists, teachers and trouble- makers who regularly fill galleries here; “Made in Colorado” holds prime examples of their signature moves.

There are also some pleasant surprises, from artists whose names are likely less familiar to audiences.

• Newcomer Chelsea James contribute­s an abstract, and surreal, mixedmedia painting that the gallery is featuring prominentl­y near the show’s entrance.

• Paul Kenneth offers a complicate­d, graphite drawing of horses, dozens of them at varying shapes and sizes, that took 300 hours to complete.

• Jaycee Beyale and Porfidia Beuke worked together on a showpiece called “Ha’ahóni ( Perseveran­ce),” which features long strands of fiber suspended over a Navajo sand painting that was installed directly on the gallery floor.

• Katelyn Odenheimer strung together dozens of porcelain pieces, all shaped like hearts, into a mobile that hangs along a stairway.

• And Laura Merage is showing a piece called “Nausy Nauzy,” made from dozens of hand- sewn plush cushions. The work has been displayed before, but it looks fresh and fun installed over the entire back wall of a loft space at the rear of the main gallery.

Things come together nicely, or as nicely as they might considerin­g the circumstan­ces. By nature, exhibition­s like this lack intellectu­al heft. The individual works here say plenty, but the effort is not guided by any far- reaching exploratio­n of a single idea. It’s all about geography. If a viewer has no connection to Colorado, they might wonder why all this art, in different media and with varied emotional weight, is pushed together in the same rooms.

It also could be edited down a bit more. Placing works in two locations mightily interrupts the experience of consuming this show, and the display at the Experience Gallery will feel to some like an anti- climactic afterthoug­ht — even if it does have some of the best pieces on the checklist.

When jurors are faced with so many entries to sort through, they want to let in as many objects as possible, and galleries usually set a number for them, but that almost always leads to excess and detracts from the overall quality. It is difficult though to fault anyone in the highly competitiv­e and often cutthroat art world for showing generosity.

And the show feels generous on every level, from the artists who lent work to the gallery, which put its heart into the installati­on at Emmanuel, to the jurors who spent the time they needed to pull out captivatin­g examples from the pile.

It is a generous act to go see it, too. These artists are standing up and representi­ng, and making a visit to “Made in Colorado” is a good way to acknowledg­e that, feel the kinship, and indulge in some home- state pride.

 ?? HELEN H. RICHARDSON — THE DENVER POST ?? Owner Leola Gant serves lunch to customers at Blazing Chicken Shack II on Oct. 4, 2022, in Denver.
HELEN H. RICHARDSON — THE DENVER POST Owner Leola Gant serves lunch to customers at Blazing Chicken Shack II on Oct. 4, 2022, in Denver.
 ?? TOMAS BERNAL, PROVIDED BY UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO DENVER ?? Sandra Ceas’ “Tsaya,” from 2022.
TOMAS BERNAL, PROVIDED BY UNIVERSITY OF COLORADO DENVER Sandra Ceas’ “Tsaya,” from 2022.
 ?? ?? Colorado Springs artist Floyd Tunson’s multi- media work at Emmanuel Gallery.
Colorado Springs artist Floyd Tunson’s multi- media work at Emmanuel Gallery.
 ?? ?? Katelyn Odenheimer’s porcelain hearts come together into a mobile installed along a stair at Emmanuel Gallery.
Katelyn Odenheimer’s porcelain hearts come together into a mobile installed along a stair at Emmanuel Gallery.
 ?? ?? A gallery visitor gazing at a painting by newcomer Chelsea James, at the University of Colorado Denver.
A gallery visitor gazing at a painting by newcomer Chelsea James, at the University of Colorado Denver.
 ?? ?? “Made in Colorado” features 45 artists from across the state.
“Made in Colorado” features 45 artists from across the state.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States