The Denver Post

2 simple and refreshing cocktails perfect for lemon lovers

- By Rebekah Peppler

PARIS » Lemon is as versatile behind the bar as it is in the kitchen. From peel to juice, this sunny citrus can brighten and balance your cocktails.

“To put it as simply as possible, lemon is going to make alcohol more drinkable,” said Ei Cullina, the head bartender and assistant general manager at Nobody’s Darling in Chicago. “It kind of quiets the burn.”

Start with the juice: Freshly squeezed is best, but don’t stress about preparing it right before, said Cullina, who uses the pronouns they and them. Lemon juice that’s sat for a little while can “provide a slightly nicer flavor,” they said. But for flavors that pop but aren’t overly bitter, just aim to use it the same day it’s squeezed.

Then, to mix in that juice, remember a simple refrain: often shaken, rarely stirred. Citrus and alcohol have different densities, and a good shake helps them mingle. The ice also incorporat­es air, transformi­ng the individual ingredient­s into a frothy, light and refreshing cocktail.

Lemon juice is a powerful ingredient, but the fruit’s yellow outer peel can be just as valuable, its fragrant oils adding their own flavor. To properly extract those oils, make sure to use clean citrus and really twist the peel before swiping it along the inside of the glass, Cullina said. Doing so means the oils will be released more slowly as you drink.

You can also always deploy a lemon-based spirit, such as limoncello (which you can buy or make at home). Cullina often adds a bit to the sugarrimme­d lemon drop cocktail (named for the candy) to pump up the drink’s flavor. Or try lemon sorbet, as in the Italian Sgroppino, a slushy, crowd-pleasing cocktail, where its acidity and sweetness offset vodka’s bite. A final hit of zest on top lends an immediate lemon aroma.

For a refreshing drink that is reminiscen­t of, yet far removed from, the spiked six packs of yore, try your hand at homemade hard lemonade by combining lemon juice and simple syrup with vodka (or limoncello) and top with sparkling water. Other lemonforwa­rd drinks that Cullina frequently reaches for are the Bee’s Knees, a simple sour made with gin, lemon juice and honey, or the sugar-rimmed sidecar, made with cognac, lemon juice and orange liqueur.

If you run out of lemons, reach for lime, then correct the balance of your drink. Limes have a sharper, denser texture and a little more acidity, so you’ll need to increase the sweetness. You can also use half lemon and half lime juice. (Reserve orange and grapefruit for another cocktail. Neither has enough acidity to stand in for lemon.)

Deploy the whole fruit to add tart complexity — from acidity and astringenc­y to sourness and floral notes — to your next drink.

“Lemon is truly just a nonnegotia­ble ingredient behind the bar,” Cullina said.

Vodka offers a more straightfo­rward flavor. The limoncello variation is sweeter — though nothing approachin­g cloying — and a bit more complex.

— Rebekah Peppler

Yield: 1 drink. Total time: 8 minutes. 1 ounce fresh lemon juice 1 ounce vodka or limoncello 1/2 ounce simple syrup Pinch flaky salt

Ice

3to 4ounces soda water, chilled

Lemon wedge or wheel, for serving

In a shaker, combine the lemon juice, vodka or limoncello, simple syrup and salt. Add ice and shake until well chilled. Fill a rocks glass with ice. Strain the cocktail into the glass and top with soda water. Garnish with the lemon wedge or wheel. 3ounces (about 2mediumsiz­e scoops) good-quality lemon sorbet (a scant 1/2 cup)

1/2 ounce vodka

1/2 ounce limoncello 2ounces prosecco or sparkling wine

Finely grated lemon zest, to finish

In a small, chilled bowl, add the sorbet, vodka, limoncello and 1 ounce prosecco. Whisk gently just until smooth. Pour into a rocks or Nick and Nora glass (or any kind, really), preferably chilled, and top with remaining 1 ounce prosecco. Garnish with freshly grated lemon zest and serve immediatel­y.

 ?? DAVID MALOSH — THE NEW YORK TIMES ?? Sgroppino. In a slushy and crowd-pleasing Sgroppino, lemon sorbet cuts through vodka’s burn.
DAVID MALOSH — THE NEW YORK TIMES Sgroppino. In a slushy and crowd-pleasing Sgroppino, lemon sorbet cuts through vodka’s burn.

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