Outdoor Handrail

Add safety and style with a custom railing

We’ll show you how to install a custom iron railing so you can step up safely—and in style.

Anew iron handrail on the front steps will enhance your home’s curb appeal, but the real benefit is the safety it provides. Whether you need to replace a wobbly old railing or add a railing where there isn’t one already, we’ll show you how to order and install a new one. Iron handrails range in price from $50 to $150 and up per running foot. In addition, some companies charge several hundred dollars to measure for and install the railing. Here’s where you can save cash. We’ll show you how to measure a simple set of steps so you can order a custom railing. If your entry steps are curved, have jogs or are an unusual shape, ask the railing company to measure for you. Either way, we’ll also show you how to securely bolt the completed railing to your concrete steps.

Order a custom railing

Careful measuring is the key to a successful handrail order. Photos 1–4 show how to take the measurements you’ll need to order the railing. Record the measurements on a sketch as we show at right. Take the sketch to the railing fabricator to place the order. Most large cities have an iron railing fabricator that will be glad to show you the railing designs it sells. There are a few standard styles—you just have to choose between straight and twisted spindles, and perhaps between a top rail that starts with a “lamb’s tongue” like ours ( Photo 8), and a scroll. We added a few upgrades to the basic railing to come up with our design. First we chose to install a brass cap rail. Then we added a second rail 4 in. below the top. We also increased the size of the straight spindles from the standard 1/2-in. width to 5/8 in. for a heavier appearance. For an easy do-it-yourself installation, ask the railing company to weld 3-in.square stainless steel plates to the bottom of each post and drill 3/8-in. holes in all four corners. Then you can simply bolt the rail to the stairs as we show here. Get a quote from your fabricator for your railing design.

After ordering your custom railing, you’ll probably have to wait a few weeks for it to be completed. But once you get the railing home, it’ll take you only a few hours to do a top-notch installation. The only special tool you’ll need is a hammer drill with a 3/8-in. masonry bit. You can rent a large hammer drill for about $30 for four hours, and the bit will cost about $10. Purchase 3/8 x 1-7/8-in. sleeve anchors and 5/16-in. cap nuts for each. Make sure you wear safety glasses and hearing protection when you’re drilling.

Make a simple sketch and jot down four measurements to help the fabricator build a perfect railing.

1 MEASURE THE LANDING

If you’re installing railings on both sides, make separate sketches and take separate measurements for each side.

2 MEASURE THE SLOPE

Lay a level on the landing and shim it until the bubble is centered. Then measure the gap between the level and the landing.

3 MEASURE THE RUN

Hold a level against the lowest step and adjust it until the bubble reads plumb. Then measure from the edge of the level to the edge of the landing.

4 MEASURE THE RISE

Lay a level on the landing and adjust it until the bubble is between the lines. Measure from the level to the top of the bottom step to determine the total rise of the two steps.

LOCATE THE ANCHOR HOLES

Position the railing with the plates an equal distance from the edges of the steps. Drill one hole at each end and drop in anchors to hold the railing in place. Then mark the remaining holes by drilling shallow starter holes.

DRILL ANCHOR HOLES

Set the railing aside and drill 2-1/2-in.-deep holes.

INSTALL THE ANCHORS

Tap in the anchors. Then remove the nuts, set the railing into place and snug up the nuts.

Strong anchors make for a sturdy railing

Sleeve anchors provide strong support in solid concrete. But the pressure exerted by the anchors as you tighten the nuts can crack or “blow out” concrete that’s not structurally sound. Before you order a new handrail, be sure the concrete is solid—that is, free of cracks and surface deterioration. If your steps are covered with brick or stone, materials that can easily crack, you may have to use a different anchoring method, such as a two-part epoxy anchoring system. Ask the railing fabricator for advice before you order the rail. Photos 5 and 6 show how to locate and drill for the anchors. Set the railing on the steps with the edge of the plates at least 1-1/2 in. from both the front and the side of the step. Adjust the railing position until the mounting plates are parallel with the side of the steps. Then mark the hole locations with the drill while the railing is in place to ensure accurate bolt placement. Start by drilling one starter hole through each of the end brackets and dropping an anchor bolt into the hole. This keeps the railing from shifting while you mark the remaining holes. When all the holes have been marked, remove the railing and complete the holes by drilling them 2-1/2 in. deep. Drill vertical holes; otherwise, the plate may not fit over the bolts. Set the gauge on your hammer drill for accurate hole depth. When all the holes have been drilled, tap anchor bolts into each one and set the railing into place ( Photo 7). Snug up the bolts, but don’t fully tighten them until you’ve checked the posts for plumb ( Photo 8).

Shim posts for a perfect installation

Out-of-level steps can cause the handrail posts to lean. Photo 8 shows how to check for and solve the problem. We used stainless steel washers because they're thinner than galvanized washers and won’t rust. They’re readily available at hardware stores and home centers. As an added precaution against corrosion, spread a layer of high-quality caulk under each plate before bolting them down. This keeps water out of the bolt holes and provides a little extra strength. For a neater-looking job, we cut off bolts that were too long and replaced the hex nuts with decorative cap nuts ( Photos 9 and 10). The railing company painted the cap nuts to match the railing.

CHECK THE POSTS

If a post leans, loosen the nuts and slide a washer under the side it leans to. Snug the nuts and recheck the post.

CUT THE BOLTS

Saw the bolts flush to the hex nuts with a hacksaw. Then remove the hex nuts.

ADD CAP NUTS

Thread cap nuts onto the bolts and tighten them.