The Guardian (USA)

What if eating meat is not only wrong – but obsolete?

- Arwa Mahdawi

Meat is dead. Carnivores are going the way of cigarette smokers and, by 2050, there’s a good chance that it will be socially unacceptab­le to eat meat. In the same way that we’re now horrified people used to smoke in offices and airplanes, we’ll find it almost unthinkabl­e that people

used to consume animals so casually and frequently.

Considerin­g that humans have been meat-eaters for about 2.5m years, the idea that we’re going to radically change our diets in a few decades might seem far-fetched. However, there has already been a significan­t shift in the way we think about meat consumptio­n. In just the past few years veganism has gone from being a fringe movement associated with hippies to being downright trendy. The likes of Beyoncé and Jay-Z have challenged their fans “to move towards a more plant-based lifestyle” and more people are talking loudly and proudly about cutting down on meat.

To be fair, changes in attitude haven’t yet translated to changes in behavior. US consumptio­n of meat in 2018 was the highest it has been for a long time, and it’s a similar story in Europe. This is largely down to a better economy; according to Rabobank, the downturn in meat-eating between 2005 and 2014 was due to high prices relative to income during the recession. But just because meat consumptio­n in America hasn’t plummeted yet doesn’t mean it won’t in the near future. This is particular­ly true when you consider the explosion in popularity of realistic plant-based meat substitute­s from companies such as Impossible Foods and Beyond Meat.

If you haven’t tried an Impossible Burger or Beyond Burger yet I’d strongly advise you to give it a go. As a vegetarian I have suffered through various abominatio­ns that describe themselves as a “veggie burger”, from large soggy mushrooms to patties that look like reconstitu­ted vomit; in contrast,the new breed of plant-based burgers are a game-changer. I even sent one back at a restaurant recently because I thought they had mistakenly given me real meat – andmy girlfriend, a committed carnivore, had a bite and wasn’t entirely

sure herself.

Fast-food chains have begun to enthusiast­ically embrace plant-based meat substitute­s, propelling these foods further into the mainstream. In April, Burger King started trialling the Impossible Burger in St Louis. According to a report by inMarket inSights, this led to Burger King locations in St Louis seeing 16.75% higher foot traffic than the chain’s national average. Meanwhile the popularity of Greggs’s vegan sausage roll caused shares of the British fast-food chain to surge, and KFC recently said it is searching for plant-based alternativ­es to chicken. Meatless meat is suddenly everywhere.

As plant-based meat alternativ­es continue to proliferat­e and evolve it will become increasing­ly difficult for people to justify choosing the animal alternativ­e. If you can easily get a meatless burger that tastes almost like the real thing – and eventually, I imagine, one tastingexa­ctly like the real thing – why would you opt for real meat? Why would you make the crueler choice?

Along with the increase in “meatless meat” we’re seeing the advent of the lab-grown, or cell-based, meat industry. Although there is still a fair way to go before we see lab-grown meat in stores, and important questions about just how environmen­tally friendly cultured meat actually is, it’s another sign that technology is poised to revolution­ize how we eat. Meat that comes from animals will eventually seem old-fashioned and barbaric.

There are theories that the reason humans first started eating large quantities of meat 2.5m years was due to climate change; droughts made fruit and vegetables less abundant and humans

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