Plug is common quick repair, but not the right thing to do
Yesterday I noticed my right front tire was low on air. I drove it really slowly to the service station and the fellowinstalled a “plug” in the tire. Is this the right thing to do? — Jason
This is a commonand quick repair method but it’s not the right thing to do! Repairing a tire with a hole less than ¼” in diameter that’s located in the tread area (not tread edge or sidewall) is in most cases acceptable if a “plug-patch”, “mushroom patch”, or carefully applied combination of a patch and plug is used. This requires removing the tire from the rim for inspection and patch installation. Inspectionmay reveal additional damage thatmay require tire replacement. Hopefully your tire retained enough air that itwasn’t damaged by driving on it! Aproper repair seals the tire’s inner liner and fills the void caused by the injuring object. Apatch or a plug by itself doesn’t do both. I’d consider having the tire inspected internally and patched atop the plug. How difficult is it to replace the fuel filter in my 2012 GMC Duramax? — Douglas M.
Periodic replacement of a diesel engine fuel filter is important! It’s probably easiest to view a You-Tube to see this done but perhaps I can help with a few tips. The filter is located mid/low on the right side of the engine and due to a few obstructions it’s a bit of an awkward angle to get your arms and hands to work well there while leaning over the fender, standing one or two rungsupa step ladder. Temporarily removing the large diameter air intake tube that connects between the air filter and turbo inlet provides access. Some folks prefer to remove the plastic inner fender tomake things easier to access the filter from the side, above the tire/wheel, I don’t.
The filter is a $30ish screw-on, double-ended metal cartridgewith a plastic water sensor/separator attached to the bottom of it. AHarbor Freight oil filter wrench (large pliers with huge rounded jaws) works great to add a little twisting grunt. Once the sensor wire is unplugged and the filter assembly is removed, it’s best to use a $10 “water sensor wrench” rather than pliers to remove and reinstall the rather tender plastic sensor assembly that screws on to the bottom of the filter. The new filter will come with an o-ring for the filter/engine connection and another for the water sensor connection. It’s important when assembling and installing the filter that both sealing areas are clean and the lightly lubricated o-rings remain in proper position as the parts are assembled.
Once the assembly is reinstalled and the sensor is plugged in, it’s time to purge air from the installed-empty filter. There’s a plastic bleed screw atop the filter pedestal that is gently opened (counterclockwise, about a half turn). Then the priming pump (a round cup next to the bleed screw) is pressed downward firmly/fully, perhaps a dozen times until liquid fuel begins to consistently exit the loosened bleed screw. Snug down the bleed screw, wipe away spilled fuel, start engine, and check for leaks! Aftermarket metal bleed screws are a popular modification for the easy-to-damage plastic one. Resetting the indicator is easy. If you have steering wheel controls, press and hold the reset button for five seconds while the fuel filter lifemessage is displayed. Without buttons, turn key on (engine off), wait five seconds, and depress both the gas and brake pedals simultaneously for ten seconds.
Email Brad Bergholdt at bradberg holdt@gmail.com; he cannot make personal replies.