The Mercury News

Sparkling waters, delightful or dreadful?

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Soda is sugary sweet, and coffee can brim with caffeine. But water — and especially bubbly H2O — fills the bill all the time. If that water is laced with a little flavor, all the better. Many sparkling waters — especially the Italian ones — come by their bubbles naturally. Bottled at the source, they have small, delicate bubbles and higher mineral content, which can contribute to off-flavors. Seltzers get their bubbles via an injection of carbon dioxide. Think SodaStream. Seltzer bubbles tend to be larger and more intense.

Some supermarke­ts stock just a few bubbly water options. Others offer imports from all over the world. The best no-calorie bubbly waters are delicious upgrades on plain water, with clean flavor profiles and delicate bubbles. The worst are taste like soap, dirt or worse.

For this taste-off, we avoided anything with sweeteners or vitamin infusions. Flavors were chosen at random, although citrus pops up frequently here — as it does on store shelves. And the calorie count for everything here is a delightful zero.

Gerolstein­er Sparkling Natural Mineral Water

Clean, fresh water with tiny bubbles that wake up the palate make this unflavored German water the best on the shelf. $1.54 for 25.3 ounces at Whole Foods. (★★★★)

Voss Sparkling Lemon Cucumber

Not only does its slender glass bottle look elegant, this Norwegian water boasts refined bubbles and complex, authentic flavors. That said, we’re not recommendi­ng the mandarin-lemongrass flavor. $2.04 for 12 (★★★★ stars)

La Croix Grapefruit

There’s a decadence to this juicy, tangy grapefruit water from Michigan that makes it seem like a drinkable treat. $3.18 for 10 12-ounce cans (★★★★ stars)

Original New York Seltzer Orange

A juicy punch of orange and powerful bubbles make for a fresh, crave-worthy drink. This newly relaunched product will be available soon at local retailers. It’s sold in 10-pack boxes of 12ounce cans. (★★★★ stars)

Ferrarelle Natural Sparkling Mineral Water

Crisp and bright, this mildly effervesce­nt Italian pick has a very fresh flavor profile. $2.29 for 25.4 ounces at Whole Foods. (★★★½ stars)

Whole Foods Lemon Italian Sparkling Mineral Water

Delicate bubbles and fresh lemon flavor make this betterthan-average Italian import a great go-to for the bar, fridge or pantry. 84 cents for 16.9 ounces. (★★½ stars)

Crystal Geyser Natural Orange Flavor Sparking Mineral Water

Despite clunky bubbles and little essence, this bargain-priced water from Calistoga is a fine choice for everyday drinking. 99 cents 33.8 ounces at Trader Joe’s. (★★ stars)

S. Pellegrino Sparkling Natural Mineral Water

This Italian water has delicate bubbles, but it’s notably salty. Widely available in various sizes. About $2 for 25.4 ounces. (★★ stars)

Cascade Ice Organic Mixed Berry

This Washington-state water might work as a mixer, but served straight up, it has a sour aftertaste. $1.29 for 17.2 ounces at Sprouts. (★ star)

The Mountain Valley Lime Twist

This dreadful quencher smells like Comet and tastes acrid. On the flipside, the blackberry-pomegranat­e is OK. $1.44 for 11.3 ounces at Sprouts. (No stars for the lime, 2 stars for the blackberry) CORRECTION: The Costco rotisserie chicken described in the Jan. 29 Taste-Off column does not have MSG in its rub.

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