7 UNEXPECTED WINE PAIRINGS
Forget the usual chardonnay and pinot noir. A nontraditional Thanksgiving menu —whether it involves Cajun fried turkey, prime rib or creamed kale —calls for an unexpected wine. So pop the cork on a grenache- or cinsault-based rosé or another lesser-known varietal from Northern California’s wineries, and toast the holiday in style.
1 Rosé:
Pink wines are experiencing a well-deserved popularity spurt. That’s because these crisp, fruity and dry wines are the perfect food-pairing sip. Side dishes such as roasted Brussels sprouts or creamed spinach, kale or corn can present pairing challenges, but dry rosé easily steps up to the plate. Serve it as an aperitif or throughout the meal. We like McKahn Family Cellars’ 2016 Rosé of Grenache, a strawberry and watermelon forward wine from Amador’s Shenandoah Valley ($26, www.mckahnfamilycellars.com). Need more heft? The juicy Onesta 2015 Rosé of Cinsault ($20, www.onestawines.com), sourced from Lodi’s storied 1886-vintage Bechthold Vineyard, is a red wine lover’s rosé, with just enough tannin to stand up to heavier dishes.
2Grenache:
This soft, red fruitdriven wine with strawberry notes plays well with just about any Thanksgiving course. Try the elegant, spicy and floral La Marea 2014 Old Vine Grenache ($38, www.llpwines. com), from Santa Clara Valley’s Besson Vineyard, or Longevity Wines’ luscious 2013 Livermore Valley Grenache ($28, www. longevitywines.com).
3 Sangiovese:
The grape of Italy’s Chianti wines, this light-bodied varietal with cherry and vanilla notes has enough acid to cut through rich gravy and meatier main dishes. We like Perrucci Family Vineyard’s earthy and herbal 2011 sangiovese ($32, www.perruccifamilyvineyard.com) from the Santa Cruz Mountains.
4 Touriga:
You may know this varietal as touriga nacional, one of Portugal’s main port grapes. But on its own, dry touriga has lovely floral violet aromas, with blueberry, plum and baking spice flavors, and a hint of mint. The Charles R Vineyards 2012 touriga from Tracy Hills in the Central Valley ($32, www.charlesrvineyards.com) is a great example.
5 Barbera:
This rustic grape is a perfect pairing for burgers and barbecue, but it works well with holiday menus, too. Las Positas’ 2013 Livermore Valley Estate Barbera ($45, www. laspositasvineyards. com) is versatile enough for oven-roasted turkey, meaty prime rib or rack of lamb. Black and blue fruit and herbal notes deliver a complex, aromatic sip.
6 Mourvedre:
Move over cabernet sauvignon. This French Rhone varietal works well with spicy turkey or medium-rare prime rib with horseradish. The Dante Robere 2015 Love Ranch Vineyard Mourvedre ($34, www.danterobere.com) from Maderagrown grapes has explosive, spicy black fruit with a super-long finish. Or, try I. Brand + Family’s 2015 mourvedre ($42, www.llpwines.com), a rich, savory, black fruitdriven wine. Sauternes-style wine:
You can’t have Thanksgiving without pie, and this golden dessert wine is the perfect match. Traditionally made in the French Bordeaux region, Sauternesstyle wines are popping up here now, as California winemakers craft their own sweet, smallbatch wines in that distinctive style. Try Page Mill Winery’s 2016 Estrella ($30/375 ml, www. pagemillwinery.com) made from pinot blanc grapes and named for winemaker Dane Stark’s daughter. A honey and white floral bouquet gives way to peach and apricot notes and a rich, mouthcoating texture. It’s a perfect ending for any holiday meal.