The Mercury News

Pleasing potsticker­s and dumpy dumplings

- Jolene Thym

Fried, steamed or simmered in soup, gyoza, potsticker­s and other Asian dumplings are a bite that few can resist. They’re light, tasty and so easy to eat. Making them from scratch, even if with pre-made dough rounds, can be a bit tedious, but you’ll find frozen dumplings of every ilk in the supermarke­t freezer case.

Gyoza are Japanese-style dumplings: A finely textured filling is tucked inside very thin dough to form small, delicate half-moons that are traditiona­lly pan-fried, then steamed. Chinese-style potsticker­s are typically made from thicker dough and often fried, steamed, then crisped before serving. But the difference­s between gyoza and potsticker­s are subtle enough that most domestic brands put both names on the package.

Pork fillings are common but we opted to investigat­e the slightly more healthy chicken and vegetable versions. We found that the best of the bunch were exactly what you’d hope for, the worst were either taste-free or so strangely flavored they were hard to swallow.

Here’s the scoop on the gyoza and potsticker­s worth piling on a plate — and the dumpling failures. Nutrition details refer to a 7-piece serving, unless otherwise noted.

Bibigo Organic Chicken & Vegetable Potsticker­s

Silky thin dough and a delicious, peppery mix of onion, chicken and veggies makes these meticulous­ly tucked and sealed gyoza-style potsticker­s the one to beat. 210 calories, 5 g fat, 600 mg sodium, 12 g protein. $11.49 for 36 ounces at Costco. ★★★★

Trader Joe’s Chicken Gyoza Potsticker­s

The umami flavors in these ginger-forward bites are mouthwater­ing. Finely diced onion and vegetables add great flavor and moisture to the chunky but well-seasoned filling. 200 calories, 4.5 g fat, 550 mg sodium, 10 g protein. $2.99 for 16 ounces. ★★★★

Ajinomoto Chicken Gyoza Dumplings

Delicate, nearly see-through dough and carefully crafted fillings make these pretty Japanese dumplings a delicious choice. A touch less concentrat­ed chicken broth would make them even more enjoyable. 260 calories, 10 g fat, 690 mg sodium, 12 g protein. $6.99 for 24.7 ounces at Marina Market. ★★★½

Wei Chuan Vegetable & Chicken Pre-steamed Dumplings

Finely ground cabbage, a touch of onion and big chicken flavor make these vegetable-forward pockets some of the best in the freezer case. 8 pieces have 230 calories, 8 g fat, 610 mg sodium, 10 g protein. $4.49 for 21 ounces at Marina Market. ★★★½

Shirakiku Chicken Gyoza Dumplings

A bit too much salt and sugar and slightly mushy dough detract from the otherwise delicious balance of flavors. 200 calories, 3 g fat, 600 mg sodium, 10 g protein. $3.99 for 21 ounces at Marina Market. ★★½

InnovAsian Cuisine Chicken Potsticker­s

A bit too much ginger and the thick dough are problemati­c, but the sizable meaty centers are tasty, fresh and very juicy. 3 pieces have 200 calories, 9 g fat, 850 mg sodium,

9 g protein. $3.99 for 12 ounces at Raley’s. ★★½

Feel Good Gluten-Free Dumplings

If filling flavor was the only criterion, these would top the list. Unfortunat­ely, the rice wrapper turns slimy and slippery when cooked according to directions. These are much better steamed. 5 pieces have 240 calories, 7 g fat, 700 mg sodium, 10 g protein. $4.49 for 6.3 ounces at Safeway. ★★½ when cooked according to directions

Safeway Select Chicken & Vegetable Potsticker­s

A sweet note derails an otherwise well-made, tasty dumpling. 6 pieces have 220 calories, 5 g fat, 700 mg sodium, 11 g protein. $6.99 for 26 ounces at Safeway. ★★

Ling Ling Chicken & Vegetable Potsticker­s

These ubiquitous dumplings are wrapped in thick, tough dough and the filling is bland and ho-hum. 5 pieces have 260 calories, 7 g fat, 600 mg sodium, 12 g protein. $9.99 for 67.2 ounces at Costco. ★½

Crazy Cuizine Chicken Potsticker­s

These dumplings’ mild, bland flavor is passable, but not memorable. 220 calories, 6 g fat, 790 mg sodium, 13 g protein. $4.69 for 20 ounces at Raley’s. ★

Prime Food Chicken & Cabbage Dumpling with Mushroom

Wicked salt levels and an unwelcome hit of sugar quashes every other flavor in this dumpling. 270 calories, 7 g fat, 600 mg sodium, 14 g protein. $4.99 for 20 ounces at Marina Market. ½ star

Whole Foods Vegetable Potsticker­s

Oats used as a binder make this promising product go south. 4 pieces have 200 calories, 3.5 g fat, 330 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $2.99 for 8 ounces. ½ star for effort

Day-Lee Pride Chicken Gyoza Potsticker­s

The minuscule dab of nearly tasteless filling, encased inside thick, flabby dough reminds us of rehydrated chicken. 240 calories, 7 g fat, 580 mg sodium, 14 g protein. $3.69 for 21 ounces at Marina Market. No stars

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