The Mercury News

Crazy-popular Gen Korean BBQ delivers

West San Jose restaurant does all-you-can-eat with some premium cuts of meat and friendly table service

- By Jessica Yadegaran jyadegaran@bayareanew­sgroup.com

When it comes to all-you-can-eat Korean barbecue, there are typically two choices: Casual buffets with poor ventilatio­n systems that can leave you smelling like a side of beef, and fine-ish dining restaurant­s where servers help you order off the menu.

Gen Korean BBQ House, which opened a few weeks ago at Westgate Center, is in the latter camp. It is the chain’s second location in San Jose — there’s a new location in Concord, as well — and the lines for spicy short ribs and garlic chicken are already out the door. Naturally, we stopped by to find out why.

THE VIBE >> Clubby. Between the loud pop music, leather seats, backlit bar, blue pendant lights and stainless steel ventilator­s (which work very well, by the way), Gen Korean looks like the set of an ’80s music video. It’s also clean and bright, with floor-to-ceiling windows and striped window coverings that let in just the right amount of light.

HOW IT WORKS >> Lunch is $16.99 and features 27 menu options; dinner, $24.99, offers 35 options. You get two hours to heat and can order four items at a time. There’s a half- order option, highly recommende­d because diners are charged extra for uncooked proteins. (It’s a good way to discourage wasting food.) The food arrives along with tongs, scissors and chopsticks to use as you cook your food at your table’s gas grill.

THE FOOD >> Gen Korean doesn’t advertise its meat and poultry resources, but we found most offerings to be good in quality, even premium, including the top blade steak. Our favorite was the beef bulgogi: An order of the thinly sliced, marinated prime chuck is enough to satisfy two people. Whole, fresh shrimp are also tasty, especially dipped in green-tea salt. Skip the red-wine marinated pork belly; it cooked up pretty tough. Seafood fan? Don’t pass up the spicy marinated barbecue calamari. It’s tender and delicious.

HELPFUL TIPS >> Ask for an extra pair of

tongs or chopsticks, so you’re not using the same tool for both raw and cooked meats. Replace your grill pan at least once; ours got pretty black. Try the delightful pickled daikon radish and an order of spicy

soft tofu soup, which is served piping hot with a lovely mix of vegetables and dried shrimp. Also, wear stretchy pants.

DETAILS >> Open from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m. or

later daily (doors open at 9 a.m. weekends) at 1554 Saratoga Ave., San Jose. The new Concord eatery is open the same hours at 1353 Willow Pass Road. genkoreanb­bq. com.

 ?? KARL MONDON — STAFF PHOTOGRAPH­ER ?? Long lines started forming almost the moment the doors opened last month at San Jose’s new Gen Korean BBQ House at Westgate Center.
KARL MONDON — STAFF PHOTOGRAPH­ER Long lines started forming almost the moment the doors opened last month at San Jose’s new Gen Korean BBQ House at Westgate Center.
 ?? KARL MONDON — STAFF PHOTOGRAPH­ER ?? Tender beef bulgogi is one of the specialtie­s at Gen Korean BBQ House.
KARL MONDON — STAFF PHOTOGRAPH­ER Tender beef bulgogi is one of the specialtie­s at Gen Korean BBQ House.
 ?? ANN TATKO-PETERSON — STAFF ?? Banchan — side dishes — including kimchi circle a grill inset in a table.
ANN TATKO-PETERSON — STAFF Banchan — side dishes — including kimchi circle a grill inset in a table.
 ?? ANN TATKO-PETERSON — STAFF ?? A teriyaki pork chop, honey chicken and unmarinate­d shrimp grill at a table.
ANN TATKO-PETERSON — STAFF A teriyaki pork chop, honey chicken and unmarinate­d shrimp grill at a table.

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