OYSTERS WITH FLAIR
Some people might argue that a recipe for oysters is completely unnecessary. “Shuck and slurp” should be the only instruction needed. But there are other folks who enjoy adding other flavors to that salty sea bite.
Now chefs from some of California’s most creative oyster bars, including Charlie Parker from Flea St. Cafe and The Oysterette, are sharing how-tos. From a simple squeeze of lemon to a dill-flecked mignonette or a sauce gribiche, there’s a way to bring everyone to the oyster bar at home. Just don’t forget the shucking knife.
Horseradish Lemon Dill Mignonette
Makes about ¼ cup, enough to top 2 dozen oysters
INGREDIENTS 3 tablespoons freshly grated horseradish root 1 Meyer lemon 2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 teaspoons olive oil ½ teaspoon salt
DIRECTIONS
Place the horseradish in a small bowl. Zest the lemon into the grated horseradish. Add ¼ cup fresh lemon juice. Stir in the chopped dill, olive oil and salt. Spoon onto freshly shucked oysters and serve.
— Karla DeLong, Bauman College,
Berkeley
Filipino-Influenced Mignonette
Makes about ¼ cup, enough to top 2 dozen oysters
INGREDIENTS
¼ cup coconut vinegar 2 tablespoons minced shallots
1 tablespoon thinly sliced chives
½ teaspoon Burn powder (dehydrated probiotic chili powder) or paprika
DIRECTIONS
Mix ingredients in a small bowl. Spoon onto freshly shucked oysters and serve.
— Chef Otto Markel, American
Abalone Farm, Davenport
Spicy Baked Oysters
Makes about 2 cups of chipotle butter
INGREDIENTS
24 medium, plump oysters 1 tablespoon neutral oil 1 small yellow onion, cut in half and sliced ½ cup (4 ounces) canned chipotles in adobo 8 ounces (½ pound) European-style butter, such as Anchor brand, softened ½ teaspoon sea salt, such as Maldon
1 lemon, cut into wedges
DIRECTIONS
Heat oven to 425 degrees. Shuck and drain the oysters. Heat the oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium heat. Add the onion and saute until caramelized and slightly charred, 5 to 10 minutes. Let cool.
Place the cooled onions in the bowl of a food processor. Add the chipotles (reserve the adobo sauce for another use) and blend until fully combined. Add the softened butter and run the processor for a minute, until the butter incorporates with the chipotles and onions. Add the salt and pulse to combine. Arrange oysters on a large baking sheet and top each with ½ teaspoon of chipotle butter. (Refrigerate leftover butter for another use.) Roast for 5 to 10 minutes or until caramelized. (Or broil on high for 3 to 5 minutes.) Serve with lemon wedges.
— Chef Dominique Crisp, L&E
Oyster Bar, Los Angeles
Fried Oysters with Sauce Gribiche and Pickles
Makes 12
PICKLES
2 large green tomatoes, cut into ¼-inch cubes, or 6stalks celery, sliced ½-inch thick on the bias 1 cup champagne vinegar ½ cup water
¼ cup sugar 2 tablespoons salt 2 tablespoons yellow mustard seeds 1 teaspoon chili pepper flakes
1 bay leaf
SAUCE GRIBICHE 2 hard-boiled eggs, peeled
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon chopped tarragon
1 small shallot, chopped 1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Black pepper, salt to taste
OYSTERS 12 medium, plump oysters
2 eggs, beaten ½ cup buttermilk 2 cups cornmeal 1 cup all-purpose flour 1 tablespoon Old Bay Seasoning 1 tablespoon salt Neutral oil, for frying Fresh dill, for garnish
DIRECTIONS
Place the tomatoes or celery in a quart-sized Mason jar. Combine all the remaining ingredients in a medium saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour the hot pickling liquid over the tomatoes or celery and let cool slightly. Refrigerate uncovered overnight. Chop and mix together all the gribiche ingredients. Season to taste. Shuck and drain the oysters.
In a large bowl, beat the eggs and buttermilk together. Add the oysters and let them oysters marinate for at least 10 minutes. In another bowl, mix the dry ingredients. Heat the oil to 375 degrees. Coat the oysters in the cornmeal breading and fry until golden. Drain on paper towels. Season with salt.
To serve, place a spoonful of gribiche on each small plate, with a fried oyster on top. Garnish with the pickle and some fresh dill.
— Chef Charlie Parker, Flea St. Cafe and The Oysterette,
Menlo Park