The Mercury News

4 fab Bay Area oyster bars

- By Amber Turpin Correspond­ent

There is something magical about oysters, which offer a burst of ocean intrigue inside their rippled shells. The West Coast offers an abundance of fresh oysters — and the last few years have brought some intriguing new oyster bars to our shores, from the stylish Leo’s in San Francisco to the sleek new Salt Wood on Monterey Bay. Here’s just a sampling of hot spots to try.

Leo’s Oyster Bar, San Francisco

Leo’s sophistica­ted, bright air puts it at the top of any list. An onyx and brass bar, fern-filled conservato­ry and tucked-away Champagne bar create varied venues for imbibing, with a menu that offers reimagined classics and spiffed-up standards. There are plenty of ways to enjoy oysters here, from freshly shucked to composed dishes, such as a Diamonds and Pearls oystercavi­ar combinatio­n. Try the oyster carbonara with pancetta, or the uni butter baked oyster served with ahi and lime. Even if you don’t partake in the Liquid Lunch, a martini served with pickled veggies, the day will glow a little more after a visit here.

DETAILS » 568 Sacramento St., San Francisco; leossf.com

The Oysterette, Menlo Park

The lightbulb moment struck Flea St. Cafe owner Jesse Ziff Cool mid-bike ride. Why not turn her restaurant deck into an outdoor oyster bar? Now Flea St. executive chef Charlie Parker serves up oysters with cucumber salsa, hot sauce and lime and other fresh dishes at the seasonal Oysterette during the warm-weather months. This spring, bask in the sun with your oysters and a Mason jar cocktail, then finish off with a strawberry ice cream sandwich.

DETAILS » Reopens this spring at 3607 Alameda de las Pulgas, Menlo Park;

www.cooleatz.com/the-oysterette

The Bywater, Los Gatos

It was his New Orleans upbringing that inspired David Kinch, of Michelin-starred Manresa, when he opened this NOLA-themed neighborho­od bar and eatery two years ago. Treat yourself to a Sazerac or a Rum-Voodoo Daiquiri alongside oysters from the pristine raw bar, served simply with Crystal, Louisiana’s beloved hot sauce, and lemon. If the halfshell isn’t your thing, there are plenty of alternate ways to consume oysters here, as well: lightened up with watercress in the Oysters “Rocka-Fella,” fried up in a po’boy, or broiled for the Vietnamese-style Oysters West Bank. (The Bywater does a festive jazz brunch, too.)

DETAILS » 532 N. Santa Cruz Ave., Los Gatos; thebywater­ca.com

Salt Wood Kitchen & Oysterette, Marina

For a place located in the middle of a sand dunes preserve, Monterey’s Sanctuary Resort is a high-design oasis. The resort’s restaurant is similarly styled — and no seating arrangemen­t is left unexplored. There are patios for sunset gazing, as well as an indoor lounge with a steel fireplace, longlow communal tables and a raw bar, where you can perch atop a cushy stool and watch your oysters being shucked, grilled and adorned. Salt Wood opened in September with an oyster-centric focus and a bar staff that can describe the flavor profile of each oyster variety, how they were raised and the temperatur­e of the water — and why you should try, say, the Puget Sound Skookums topped with apple gelee and finger limes, or the baked Marin Miyagis with kimchi butter and scallions.

DETAILS » 3295 Dunes Drive, Marina; www.saltwoodki­tchenandoy­sterette.com

 ?? SIDNEY BENSIMON ?? Raw oysters at San Francisco’s Leo’s Oyster Bar are served freshly shucked or cooked into dishes such as oyster carbonara.
SIDNEY BENSIMON Raw oysters at San Francisco’s Leo’s Oyster Bar are served freshly shucked or cooked into dishes such as oyster carbonara.

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