OFF-ROADING THROUGH Kipu Ranch
I’m deep in the jungle, wearing protective goggles, a safety helmet and rust-orange bandanna. The look is somewhere between motocross and cowboy — not my finest fashion moment. But I’m about to go 4×4 off-roading through Kipu Ranch, a private, 3,000-acre ranch extending from Huleia River to the top of Mount Haupu in Lihue. I need all the gear I can get.
This is a historic site tied to Hawaiian royalty — and to Hollywood royalty, as well. Many iconic movies have been filmed here, from “Pirates of the Caribbean” to “Indiana Jones.” I’ll have a chance, along with the 20 or so people in my group, to jump into the river on the same rope swing that Harrison Ford used to make his seaplane getaway in “Raiders of the Lost Ark.” Hope there’s gear for that.
Over the years, I’ve been all over this lush, serene island and seen it from many vantage points, cycling down Waimea Canyon’s roads at 35 mph, hiking to the top of Sleeping Giant, even honeymooning in Princeville. But experiencing the verdant Garden Island in this way — via a fourwheel drive Kawasaki UTV — is new and a bit thrilling.
Off-roading on a tropical island means varied terrain and mercurial weather conditions, so we expect our clothes and closed-toe shoes to get dirty. Our guides, Marlon and Joshua of Kipu Ranch Adventures, walk us through UTV operation and safety tips. We learn what to do when you hit a drop in the trail (keep your vehicle level), come across wild pigs (stop and allow them to cross, of course) and why it’s important to feather the brakes instead of slamming on them (it helps reduce sliding in wet or slippery conditions).
In total, we’ll cover 12 miles in three hours, stopping for scenic selfies and brief yet fascinating stories about Hawaii’s history and native plant life. So after a few test runs, we tighten our helmets and begin our ride past lush green pastures and wide-open views of majestic Mount Waialeale, the second wettest spot on Earth. Then we descend into our first downhill ride, arriving just above the tropical Huleia Valley, and its sea of papaya, guava, mango and avocado trees. Come summer, the guides let you pick as many as you want and take them home.
We stop for panoramic pictures while Marlon and Joshua share the history of Kipu Ranch. Until the mid-1800s, it was a site of Hawaii’s sugar cane industry, owned by Princess Ruth Ke’elikolani. In 1879, she sold it to friend and
neighbor William Hyde Rice, on the condition that it would remain in his family and never be developed.
In addition to the ATV rides, the Rice family runs about 800 head of cattle on the land, and as we bounce by, we see them sniffing wildflowers and grazing on native grasses. The farther into the jungle we go, the more cool and moist the air becomes; bushes and bamboo brush our elbows as we hug a sharp turn and ease our way (feather, feather) down a muddy hill.
That’s when we park our vehicles and take a short walk to the bank of the Huleia River, where the famous rope dangles from a tree. Conveniently, there’s a large rock under the rope, so Joshua steps on it and demonstrates one of three ways to do your best Indiana Jones: Swing out and splash into the water, Tarzan out and back, or do what Joshua calls “The Hollywood.”
“Just grab the rope and lean back like you’re about to take off while I snap your picture,” he says. “It’ll be our secret.” I chicken out, but those smart enough to have worn their bathing suits under their clothes go for it, while we hoot and make jungle noises.
After a few more pictures, we begin our ascent 800 feet to Mount Haupa. What’s great about our guides is that they’re also storytelling historians and self-taught naturalists. As we climb the trail, Marlon points out naupaka flowers and specifically, their leaves.
“You’ll find these in a lot of snorkeling spots,” he says. “Squeeze them and let the water drip on your goggles. It makes a great natural defogger.”
Another few hundred yards and we reach the top of the mountain. From the overlook, we see Kipu Kai, one of Kauai’s most remote beaches, stretched out before us. Kipu Kai is a large cove on the southeast coast of Kauai, between Poipu and Lihue. This UTV tour
is one of the only ways to see this rugged coastline, too, unless you own a plane or kayak.
The beach played a starring role in “The Descendants,” but the story Joshua tells us about a legendary battle that took place here, on the wedge of golden sand between two steep ridges, is far more riveting than the travails of George Clooney’s character.
It starts with King Kamehameha, who was slowly building his kingdom of islands in the late 1700s, including several attempts to conquer Kauai. But the island, led by Princess Ruth’s great-grandfather, King Kaumuali’i, evaded him.
In 1803, when disease overtook Kamehameha’s armies, King Kaumuali’i told him to return home with his men. Over the next few years, Kamehameha amassed the largest
armada Hawaii had ever seen, returning with massive cannons and largescale war canoes to these very shores. With complete bloodshed imminent, Kaumuali’i offered himself to the imposing king, who, according to legend, stood 7 feet, 11 inches tall.
“He told Kamehameha, this intimidating guy, ‘Spare my people and take me instead,’ ” Joshua tells us. “Kamehaha was so impressed with Kaumuali’i’s love of his people that the two agreed to a peaceful resolution. But to this day you can still see human bones and sharktooth spears wash up on the shores.”
Standing on that ridge, listening to Joshua’s story with muddy shoes and a full heart, I realize my safety helmet and goggles don’t seem so necessary after all.