The Mercury News

Mac and cheese, velvety to mushy

- Jolene Thym Columnist

No, it’s not diet food. And no, your doctor will never give you permission to eat it. But macaroni and cheese is just too deliciousl­y comforting to resist.

Homemade is almost always best, but when time is short — or it’s just you doing the eating, not an entire family — frozen mac and cheese works, too. The best frozen options offer al dente pasta, bathed in a complex, velvety sauce made with several kinds of cheese. Some are kicked up with extra flavors, such as chiles, onion or truffle.

Bad frozen mac and cheese is pasty, tasteless slop that doesn’t deserve a spot on any dinner table. Some are so salty, they’ll make your tastebuds cringe. Others are entirely flavor-free — or so mushy, they should be labeled “pudding.”

Here’s the scoop on the best of the bunch, and the ones best avoided. (Serving sizes vary dramatical­ly. The nutrition informatio­n here has been adjusted to reflect a 1-cup serving.)

Beecher’s World’s Best Mac & Cheese

Cheesy sauce kicked up with sauteed onion makes for an unforgetta­bly delicious bite — from a Seattle cheese shop known for its stellar mac and cheese. In the frozen version, the seasonings are balanced, the pasta is cooked perfectly and the cheese is spot-on. This dish is significan­tly pricier than its frozen cousins, but it’s also better than most homemade versions. 490 calories, 22 g fat, 750 mg sodium, 23 g protein. $12.99 for 20 ounces at Whole Foods. ★★★★

Devour White Cheddar Mac & Cheese

Flavored with tasty bits of applewood-smoked bacon, this delicious white sauce is so cheesy, strings pull at the fork. It’s ridiculous­ly yummy. 470 calories, 27 g fat, 794 mg sodium, 21 g protein. $3.99 for 12 ounces at Safeway. ★★★★

Wicked Kitchen Mac & Cheese with Hatch Chile

Fans of spicy foods will love the heat in this creamy, cheesy mixture. The roasted poblanos, onions and Hatch chiles are fresh, and the cheese sauce is tasty. 362 calories, 20 g fat, 741 mg sodium, 11.5 g protein. $2.49 for 9 ounces at Smart & Final. ★★★½

Trader Joe’s Hatch Chile Mac & Cheese

Fresh chiles folded into a cheesy sauce deliver good flavor, and the pasta is perfectly cooked. Unfortunat­ely, the sauce is entirely absorbed, making for a dry, less-than-silky bite. 308 calories, 13 g fat, 569 mg sodium, 15 g protein. $2.99 for 12 ounces. ★★★

Blake’s Old Fashioned Mac & Cheese

Delicate cheese flavor, great texture and a balance of subtle, comforting seasonings make this small bowl tasty, if a bit dry. The breadcrumb­s on top are especially nice. 370 calories, 18 g fat, 480 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $3.99 for 8 ounces at Sprouts Market. ★★★

Joe’s Diner Mac ’n Cheese

Packed with shredded cheese that browns in the oven, this Trader Joe’s option offers mild

but authentic cheese flavor. The pasta has nice texture, but it’s notably dry. 409 calories, 17 g fat, 670 mg sodium, 18 g protein. $2.99 for 14 ounces. ★★★

365 Macaroni & Cheese

The large shells swimming in white cheese sauce are al dente, and the sauce is both cheesy and rich, thanks to the use of several different kinds of cheese. But the touch of nutmeg seems out of place. 490 calories, 20 g fat, 770 mg sodium, 18 g protein. $3.99 for 9 ounces at Whole Foods. ★★½

Evol Truffle Parmesan Mac & Cheese

Despite the dry texture, the pairing of truffle with cheesy pasta is inspired. Add a splash of cream or milk and this would get another star. 460 calories, 26 g fat, 540 mg sodium, 14 g protein. $3.99 for 8 ounces at Sprouts Market. ★★½

Marie Callender’s Vermont White Cheddar Mac & Cheese

This super saucy, Alfredo-like version is pleasant, but the pasta is flabby. 340 calories, 19 g fat, 730 mg sodium, 12 g protein. $2.69 for 13 ounces at Smart & Final. ★★

Signature Select Macaroni and Cheese

The texture of the luxurious orange sauce is a win, but the flavor is salty and bland. 265 calories, 4 g fat, 594 mg sodium, 16 g protein. $2.25 for 9 ounces at Safeway. ★

Sprouts Organic Four Cheese Macaroni & Cheese

Al dente pasta and real cheese earn points. Pay no mind to the nutritiona­l breakdown on the package. The salt in this dish is simply overwhelmi­ng. 340 calories, 12 g fat, 625 mg sodium, 13 g protein. $3.99 for 9 ounces. ★

Amy’s Macaroni & Cheese

Kudos for trying to bring together great ingredient­s, but the results are less than delicious. The dish is dry and so delicately seasoned it’s difficult to find any flavor. 353 calories, 14 g fat, 565 mg sodium, 14 g protein. $3.99 for 9 ounces at Sprouts. ★

Stouffer’s Classics Macaroni & Cheese

Flabby pasta is unpleasant — and it’s not helped by this cheese sauce, made with cheddar and milk. 330 calories, 15 g fat, 860 mg sodium, 14 g protein. $3.49 for 12 ounces at Foodmaxx. ★

Trader Joe’s Reduced Guilt Mac & Cheese

The idea of cutting the fat and sodium is terrific, but this is a flavor and texture failure. 307 calories, 7 g fat, 614 mg sodium, 17 g protein. $1.99 for 7 ounces. ½ star

Michelina’s Macaroni & Cheese

The luxurious, silky texture of this sauce doesn’t make up for the fact that salt is the first and only flavor. 290 calories, 11 g fat, 570 mg sodium, 9 g protein. $1.25 for 8 ounces at Food Maxx. ½ star

Banquet Mac & Cheese

If looks were the only criterion, this bold orange sauce might win. But this dish has precious little flavor aside from the huge hit of salt. 239 calories, 15 g fat, 922 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $1.49 for 10 ounces at Food Maxx. ½ star

Chili’s Bacon Mac ’n’ Cheese

An overpoweri­ng artificial smoke flavor kills this dish entirely. It’s inedible. 480 calories, 17 g fat, 800 mg sodium, 14 g protein. $3.99 for 10 ounces at Safeway. No stars

Lean Cuisine Favorites Macaroni & Cheese

The chalky finish on this mushy pasta makes it the worst of the bunch. 239 calories, 5 g fat, 445 mg sodium, 10 g protein. $1.99 for 10 ounces at Food Maxx. No stars

 ?? THINKSTOCK ?? Macaroni and cheese is the ultimate comfort food.
THINKSTOCK Macaroni and cheese is the ultimate comfort food.
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