Bathe naked with strangers? Welcome to public bathhouse
TOKYO >> Japan is proud of its bathing traditions. For many Westerners, though, the fact that these traditions involve being naked with strangers is awkward at best, even though men and women bathe separately.
On my first trip I tried to wriggle out of a friend’s offer to take me to an onsen, or hot springs resort. I suggested a different town that had an attraction I wanted to see, and thought I was off the hook.
I should have done my research better: That town was famous for its onsen as well.
It turned out for the best, though, because I’ve become a fan. Nothing is more relaxing after a tiring day of sightseeing than a long soak, and you can reassure yourself that you’re experiencing authentic culture at the same time.
Two terms are basic when talking about Japanese baths: onsen and sento. An onsen has natural hot spring water. A sento, usually translated as public bath, typically uses regular water, traditionally heated by burning wood. Tall chimneys for the smoke are one visual symbol of the city sento.
The distinction is noted because various spring waters are supposed to have different health benefits. Onsen are commonly found at hotels and resorts outside the city, but there are about 45 sento in Tokyo, for example, that do have natural spring water.
For the outsider, though, the facilities will look much the same and more important, so are the traditions and etiquette.
Stephanie Crohin is author of a book in Japanese about sento. She has visited over 700 sento across Japan.
She reassures first-timers that with everyone else acting like it’s normal, you will quickly get comfortable. “For some people it is a big challenge to be naked in front of others, but genders are separate, and everybody just doesn’t look and doesn’t care,” she says. “It is the ideal place to forget about complexes!”
Although you won’t have much trouble finding a sento in a city like Tokyo, their numbers are in fact declining. Last year, she says, 40 sento closed in Tokyo. Fifty years ago, there were around 2,700 sento in the city, but now there are around 560, with 2,500 across the country.
One reason sento are closing is that many of their customers are elderly. Now that every home has its own bath, younger people often never cultivated the habit. Some sento are trying new strategies to attract customers, including presenting exhibits and events such as concerts and developing English information to attract tourists.