The Mercury News

Coffee ice cream from bold to blah

- Jolene Thym Columnist

Fans of specialty espresso drinks know that sugar and cream are coffee magic. They erase the bitter notes and turn bold, rich coffee into a dreamy liquid dessert. It’s no surprise that ice cream makers are taking a cue from that.

The combinatio­n of cream, sugar and coffee in frozen form is so delicious that scores of new twists on coffee ice cream are showing up in freezer sections, including cold brew, Colombian coffee, and Vietnamese and Turkish-style coffees, and some embellishe­d with bits of chocolate, swirls of fudge and more.

We took a sweet, eye-opening taste adventure through a stack of specialty pints in every coffee variation we could find. Great coffee ice cream starts with bold, expertly brewed, high-quality coffee. The results should be creamy, rich and pleasantly sweet, with coffee as the first and last flavor on your palate. Texture is entirely negotiable, as some of the best flavored versions are grainy due to tasty coffee grounds or espresso fudge in the mix, while others are more like ice milk.

As delicious as coffee ice cream can be, more than a few things can go wrong. Some are so creamy, they taste like marshmallo­w. Others lack — ahem — coffee flavor. And the worst are sugary bites of nothingnes­s, nonetheles­s packed with sugar, fat and calories.

Here’s the buzz on the best coffee ice creams and the blandest bores. Nutrition details are based on ½-cup servings.

McConnell’s Turkish Coffee

This crazy-tasty ice cream, blended with crushed espresso beans, offers powerful flavors. It’s heaven for picky drinkers who want only the very best cup of coffee. Those sensitive to caffeine should resist this as an evening treat. 260 calories, 19 g fat, 18 g protein. $7.99 a pint at Raley’s.

Ben & Jerry’s Coffee Coffee BuzzBuzzBu­zz!

Chunks of grainy espressobe­an fudge tucked into rich, velvety coffee ice cream makes for an impressive double-punch of flavor. 250 calories, 16 g fat, 24 g sugar. $4.99 for a pint at Safeway.

Tillamook Stumptown Cold Brew Coffee Ice Cream

Fans of ultra-creamy ice creams will fall for this luxurious, bold coffee version. This is a great pick for an elegant dessert. 210 calories, 14 g fat, 19 g sugar. $5.19 for 15.5 ounces at Raley’s.

Three Twins Milk Coffee

Huge coffee flavor and the light, fresh texture of ice milk make this an irresistib­le spoonful. 200 calories, 13 g fat, 17 g sugar. $4.99 for a pint at Safeway.

Vice Cream Higher Grounds

This decadent bite is highlighte­d by crispy cookie bits and a swirl of mocha fudge. The coffee flavor is pleasant, if a bit overshadow­ed by the chocolate. 280 calories, 14 g fat, 24 g sugar. $5.49 for a pint at Safeway.

So Delicious Cold Brew Coffee

Thumbs-up for minimal sugar and fresh, bold coffee flavor in this coconut milk-based treat, but this ice cream is definitely a coconut-coffee flavor experience. 150 calories, 8 g fat, 15 g sugar. $6.49 per pint at Whole Foods.

O Organics Mochaccino

Great coffee flavor and a pleasant level of sweetness yield tasty results, although the coffee bean bits are too big and chewy. 210 calories, 13 g fat, 19 g sugar. $4.99 for a pint at Safeway.

New Barn Organic AlmondCrem­e Organic Coffee Bean

Those who can’t have cow’s milk may enjoy this deep brown mix with coffee bean flecks, but the almond flavor quashes the coffee. 170 calories, 7 g fat, 15 g sugar. $6.99 for

14 ounces at Safeway.

Humphry Slocombe Blue Bottle Vietnamese Coffee

Those who don’t care much for coffee should opt for this chicory-root version. The ultra-fresh cream is a win, but it doesn’t taste like coffee. 170 calories, 10 g fat, 17 g sugar. $8.99 for a pint at Whole Foods.

Safeway Signature Reserve Colombian Cold Brew Caramel

This icy, uber-sweet mix has the bitter finish found in black coffee, but it lacks the nutty note of well-made, good-quality coffee. 220 calories, 16 g fat, 26 g sugar. $4.99 for 14 ounces.

Häagen-Dazs Coffee Ice Cream

Coffee is clearly an afterthoug­ht here. It’s certainly edible, but ultimately disappoint­ing with barely detectible coffee flavor. 240 calories, 16 g fat, 20 g sugar. $4.99 for

14 ounces at Whole Foods.

Straus Family Creamery Organic Coffee

Made with decaf coffee, this extremely creamy, marshmallo­w-like mix has a fruity note, but it fails to deliver more than a hint of coffee flavor. 240 calories, 15 g fat, 19 g sugar. $5.19 for a pint at Raley’s.

 ?? GETTY IMAGES ?? The freezer section is full of specialty coffee ice creams that capture java in all its cold brew, Vietnamese, Turkish and chocolate-swirled forms.
GETTY IMAGES The freezer section is full of specialty coffee ice creams that capture java in all its cold brew, Vietnamese, Turkish and chocolate-swirled forms.
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