A MAMMOTH FALL ROAD TRIP
From the craggy splendors of the Minarets to the igneous wonders of the Long Valley Caldera, the Eastern Sierra range offers stunning sights and recreational possibilities — and a fall road trip here promises to be, well, mammoth. California’s Mammoth and June Lakes region offers outdoor adventure of every variety.
On this particular day, we’re Mammoth bound, heading down Highway 395. We make a stop in the town of Lee Vining to see one of the treasures of the region — the alkaline and very ancient Mono Lake, with its strange limestone tufa deposits — and pick up barbecue fare at Bodie Mike’s before heading for the June Lake Loop a few miles south. This 15-mile loop navigates through what some people call the Switzerland of California: gemlike lakes surrounded by lush forests and impossibly steep, jagged terrain.
Kayaks and canoes ply the waters of the delightful Silver Lake, where the fishing resort and campground date back to 1916. You could easily stop right here and stay awhile. But the alpine village of June Lake lies just ahead, and beyond that: Mammoth.
The town of Mammoth Lakes is nestled on the flanks of volcanic Mammoth Mountain. It’s known for its world-famous ski area, but in the warmer months, it’s the fabulous Mammoth Lakes Basin doing the talking, a few miles up from town and accessible by bike, car or trolley.
There are plenty of campgrounds, resorts and dining options available here, as well as miles of hiking trails, sport rentals and six lakes to use as your water sports canvas. Twin Lakes, our first stop, holds the rustic Tamarack Lodge and the spec- IF YOU GO
Mammoth Lakes Visitor Center: Pick up maps and trail information at this visitor center run by the U.S. Forest Service, National Park Service and Mammoth Lakes Tourism. Open from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily at 2510 Main St., Mammoth Lakes; www. visitmammoth.com. Bodie Mike’s BBQ: Open daily (closed during the winter months) at 51357 Highway 395, Lee Vining.
Petra’s Bistro & Wine Bar: Open Tuesday-Sunday at the Alpenhof Lodge, 6080 Minaret Road, Mammoth Lakes. Jimmy’s Taverna: Open daily at 248 Old Mammoth Road, Mammoth Lakes; jimmystaverna.com. Mammoth Brewing: Taproom and eatery open daily at 18 Lake Mary Road, Mammoth Lakes; mammoth brewingco.com.
Shea Schat’s Bakery: Open daily at 3305 Main St., Mammoth Lakes.
Mammoth Rock Brasserie: Open daily at 3029 Chateau Road, Mammoth Lakes; www.mammothrock nbowl.com. Clocktower Cellar: Open daily at 6080 Minaret Road, Mammoth Lakes.
tacle of Twin Lakes Falls. Stop in at the Gallery at Twin Lakes, built in 1934 as a studio and gallery for American artist and photographer Stephen Willard. When cajoled, owner Robert Joki spins yarns, telling tales of mines and characters from long-gone Old Mammoth for your enjoyment.
Prefer boating? Lake Mary, the largest of the group, has two marinas with powerboat and paddling rentals, plus great views of the mountains and formidable Crystal Crag.
The smaller lakes, Mamie and George, offer more intimate, less frenetic surroundings. And Horseshoe Lake, at the end of the road, sports a large sandy beach and dog-friendly surroundings.
Trailheads lead to still more wondrous lakes. One trail starts from the Coldwater Campground and heads first to the Consolidated, the last working mine in Mammoth, and then on to charming Heart Lake. This 2.5-mile round trip takes you through lush forests and vegetation, affording grand views of the Sherwin Range.
Another short walk, which starts at the Horseshoe Lake parking lot, climbs up to gorgeous McCloud Lake, nestled below a grand rock formation.
Got several more days? Hike to Minarets Vista, the distinctive Devils Postpile National Monument and stunning Rainbow Falls.
Mountain bike or hike the ski area trails. Soak in the hot springs, fish Hot Creek or the Owens River in the geothermally active Long Valley Caldera. Or drop a line in nearby Convict Lake, below Mount Morrison.
And after you’ve had your fill of nature for the day, head back to Mammoth Lake, where the dining possibilities include the fine-dining Petra’s Bistro, Mediterranean Jimmy’s Taverna, Mammoth Brewing, breakfasty Shea Schat’s Bakery, Mammoth Rock Brasserie — where you can bowl, as well as dine — or the Clocktower Cellar for drinks and a dose of local color.