A girls weekend to Calistoga offers the chance to wine, dine and spa the days away.
The start to our recent girls trip to Napa Valley felt straight out of Amy Poehler’s recent “Wine Country” movie. Tired and sticky after hours in sweaty bumper-tobumper traffic, our iphones brick-like because no one had remembered to bring a charger, we tumbled into Calistoga’s lovely Solage Resort & Spa to check in. Then we piled back into the car — welcome glasses of wine in hand — to drive to our cottage on the other side of the property, only to realize that stemmed wine glasses do not fit into car drink holders.
It was an only-in-wine-country moment. Amy Poehler would understand.
After that opening act, though, the rest of our weekend smoothed into pure relaxation. In a wine region overwhelmed by its own popularity, Calistoga retains its serene charm, with more than enough to do to fill a weekend or more. Here’s what’s new.
DRINK >> Cabernet and albariño
Calistoga offers some amazing cabernet sauvignon — Napa Valley is, of course, known for it — as well as many other varietals that thrive in the decidedly volcanic soil. One great place to start your quest is Brian Arden Wines, a familyowned passion project along the Silverado Trail. The winery’s beautifully designed building, which was completed in 2015, boasts views of the Palisade Mountains, and winery chef Benjamin Weakley cooks up memorable wine-paired menus in the open kitchen on-site, using ingredients from the garden right outside.
Picayune Cellars recently relocated to the center of town, offering walk-ins a taste of owner Claire Ducrocq Weinkauf’s pretty boutique wines, as well as a chance to browse her curated home goods, gifts and jewelry. Head to the cheerful backyard where a hidden picnic spot makes a great setting for sauvignon blanc sipping or albariño appreciation.
If you’re looking for something other than vino, hit up Sam’s Social Club, the appealing restaurant at Indian Springs, for a pint of beer. Brewed on-site in a variety of flavors and styles — Sam’s Calistoga Pilsner and Sam’s Spring Water Hazy IPA, among them — these suds are are tailor-made for afternoon sipping on the sunny deck. There’s a full bar, too, and several signature cocktails. We skipped the vodka-based Girls Getaway cocktail and opted for the Guys Getaway instead, a concoction of mezcal, rosemary syrup and bitters.
EAT >> Gnocchi, chocolate and more
Solage’s acclaimed Solbar restaurant may not be new, but executive chef Gustavo Rios is — and he’s made this even more of a destination food experience. Think gnocchi with lobster, curried walnuts and beech mushrooms — plus beignets to seal the deal.
Speaking of dessert, don’t miss 2-year-old Earth & Sky Chocolates, one of the few remaining businesses in one of the depot rail cars downtown. Inside this bright chocolate shop and factory, owners Christian Parks and Laura Koerth create sweet treats that are almost too beautiful to eat.
Another don’t miss: Cheer Bar, a reimagined soda fountain, opened in April with three flavors
of ice cream, upscale coffee, fresh squeezed juices, salads, smoothies and even avocado toast. The syrups are housemade, local produce is emphasized and there are old-school arcade games, too.
Craving brunch? Lovina took over the revamped Calistoga Kitchen space last year under new co-owners Jennifer Bennet (San Francisco’s Zazie) and Shaun Mcgrath (Michael Mina, Americano and Calistoga’s Sam’s Social Club). The food is spot on, right down to the perfectly dressed greens aside your wild mushroom and housemade ricotta toast. There’s sidewalk patio seating, a standout menu and nice folks slinging it all.
RELAX >> Spa-ahhh
The town’s geothermal mineral springs put Calistoga on the map. So head straight for the Indian Springs geyser-fed pool, which has soothed visitors’ tired bones since 1910.
It isn’t the only game in town, of course. Now that the retro-modern Calistoga Motor Lodge and adjoining Moonacre Spa & Baths are open, you can indulge in a soak at a variety of geothermal pools in a casual, hip environment. If you’re here at the beginning of the week, linger for the hotel’s Maker Mondays, complete with lessons from local artisans, or hit up the Spa Happy Hour from 3 to 6 p.m. Wednesdays for two 25-minute spa treatments and a glass of red, white or bubbly.
And Solage Spa has re-created Calistoga’s natural waters with several soaking pools with different temperatures and mineral properties. The Starlight at the Bathhouse package offers an after-hours soak and steam retreat, plus sparkling wine and dessert. Add a private, floating, guided meditation while you’re at it — or Cbd-infused mud enhancements.
STAY: Zzzzzzz’s
It’s best to be well-rested if you’re going to wine, dine and relax this thoroughly — and Calistoga has a wide array of lodging options. The most anticipated is the Four Seasons Napa Valley, which will open this winter; reservations are being accepted for January. Expect luxurious appointments, an on-site organic winery and hidden vineyard cabanas for spa treatments and intimate dining.
The historic Indian Springs resort has undergone considerable renovation over the last five years, including the addition of a new wing of “view rooms,” three luxe bungalows for families and small groups, and the Sam’s Social Club bar and eatery.
One new option is the year-old The Bungalows at Calistoga. Three separate cottages — think Airbnb-meetsboutique hotel — are clustered on a small residential property across from Indian Springs. It’s just a short stroll to downtown for more wining and dining.