Vibrant dining scene flourishes in East Bay and South Bay
To hear Michelin and James Beard reps talk, it often seems like the Bay Area consists solely of San Francisco, with the occasional daring foray into Oakland — or anywhere David Kinch hangs out. We suspect tunnel fear — or Highway 101-ophobia.
But the East and South Bay restaurant scene offers hundreds of incredible dining experiences, and our restaurant critics and food writers have sampled them all, from swanky spots to holes-in-the-wall. Now we’re ready to proclaim the Bay Area’s top 50 non-s.f. spots, a list topped by — OK, Manresa. (We, too, are Kinch fans.) Consider it not so much a ranking, as a list for all occasions and cravings. (Send your nominations for No. 51 to us at features@bayareanewsgroup.com.)
Now let’s get started, because when you’re craving over-the-top culinary creativity — or Arabic street food, Cambodian fare or farmto-fork lushness — you won’t want to wait.
When you want not a 1-star or 2-star but a 3-star Michelin experience: Manresa, Los Gatos
Three Michelin stars is as good as it gets, and chef-owner David Kinch has achieved that rarefied status in the South Bay. He’s legendary for brilliant transformations of California produce and coastal seafood; his signature “Into the Garden” course is always a stunning seasonal presentation. Despite the recognition, Kinch has never been one to rest on his laurels. He’s cultivated new ideas — and new talent — by opening his paean to New Orleans, The Bywater, as well as the Manresa Bread cafe and bakeries. Next up? An Italian-french concept in Aptos called Mentone.
ORDER » Prepare for surprises. It’s a prix fixe tasting menu.
DETAILS » 320 Village Lane, Los Gatos; www. manresarestaurant.com; $$$$
When you long for the Golden Age of Cambodia — and Phnom Penh street food: Nyum Bai, Oakland
You don’t go to Nyum Bai if you happen to be in Fruitvale. You get in your car wherever you are, drive to Fruitvale and appear in James Beard-nominated chef-owner Nite Yun’s poppy, pastel-hued restaurant because the craving for lemongrass-glazed pork chops, jasmine rice cooked in chicken fat and fermented fish pasteeverything is just too fierce. Wash down the stirfried pea tendrils and salted beans with a crisp local brew, like Ale Industries’ Golden State of Mind, an herbal tea beer. Like pho? You’ll love kuy teav, a rice noodle soup in pork broth with sliced brisket, minced pork, shrimp, crispy garlic, lime and herbs.
ORDER » Kuy teav Phnom Penh, lok lac, fried chicken, cha mee sor glass noodles
DETAILS »
3340 E. 12th St.; www.nyumbai.com; $ When you’d like a side of Victoriana with your dinner: Chez TJ, Mountain View
For 37 years, George Aviet’s Michelin-starred restaurant, housed in a charming 1890s Victorian, has offered a soothing respite from Silicon Valley’s increasingly fast-paced world. It’s a menu-free experience, “leaving you free to enjoy the wonder of your meal without any prior notion or expectations.” That said, some recent dishes from executive chef Jarad Gallagher — who likes to “keep one foot in the past, one in
the future” — have included antelope tartare, sous vide eggplant with Kaluga caviar, A-5 wagyu beef and a modern cobbler that pays tribute to the Valley of Heart’s Delight with local Andy’s Orchard peaches.
ORDER » Although each course is presented as a surprise, you’ll receive a commemorative copy of the tasting menu at the end of your dinner.
DETAILS » 938 Villa St., Mountain View; www. cheztj.com; $$$$
When you want homegrown talent — and a tasting menu you’ll never forget: Commis, Oakland
There’s something magical — and deeply delicious — about sitting at Commis chef-owner James Syhabout’s counter or at one of the narrow, elegant dining room’s tables and remembering, course after titillating course, this Oakland native’s journey from California Culinary Academy to Manresa, The Fat Duck, Coi and finally, his own two-michelin starred restaurant. Syhabout’s dishes, culled from thoughtfully sourced ingredients and precise techniques, will enchant and cling to your memory, whether dinner reveals the signature slow poached egg yolk with smoked dates, alliums and malt, or carrot tartare with lime, shaved young coconut and mint. You’ll have the food giggles all night.
ORDER » An eight-course menu that begins with that famous slow-poached egg.
DETAILS » 3859 Piedmont Ave., Oakland; commisrestaurant.com; $$$$
When an upscale meal at the bar is just the thing: Protégé, Palo Alto
How many places offer a Michelin-caliber meal at the bar — with wine advice from a master sommelier? That’s Protégé, a chic restaurant from alumni of the French Laundry. Wine expert Dennis Kelly and executive chef Anthony Secviar created a two-tier approach — a tasting menu in the dining room, an a la carte menu in the lounge — with the casual diner the clear beneficiary. Even the dessert course is the most upscale one you’ll find in a lounge: A pastry cart will roll around for your perusal. Heads up: Think reservations a month in advance.
ORDER » Ricotta dumplings and brick chicken in the bar, prix fixe menu in the dining room
DETAILS » 250 S. California Ave., Palo Alto; www. protegepaloalto.com; lounge $$, dining room $$$$
When you need to prove that Oakland’s food scene is better than San Francisco’s: Reem’s California, Oakland
Cross the bridge, friends, and fall in love with sumac-braised chicken, chocolate halawa and Damascus lemonade at this one-of-a-kind Arabic street food bakery and cafe. Tucked under the BART platform at the Fruitvale Transit Village, Reem’s California specializes in fresh, affordable, flavorful oven-baked flatbreads, wraps, salads and unique sweets beyond baklava — think ghraybe, orange blossom shortbread cookies, and fatayer jibneh, an akkawi cheese turnover with nigella seeds — in a warm, bright, colorful shop lined with Middle Eastern cookbooks. Prepare to become obsessed.
ORDER » Za’atar man’oushe, muhamarra, pali cali wrap, fattoush salad, every pastry
DETAILS » 3301 E. 12th St., Oakland; www. reemscalifornia.com; $
When you’re a vegetarian but want the full Michelin experience: The Plumed Horse, Saratoga
Michelin-star dining can be a challenge for vegetarians, what with many restaurants requiring advance notice of dietary needs. Not so at the Plumed Horse. Chef Peter Armellino has created a full vegetarian tasting menu and it’s brimming with elegant versions of peak-ofseason produce: Brentwood corn pudding with house-made ricotta, purslane and fava beans; summer melon with shishito peppers and finger lime vinaigrette, the restaurant’s popular Parmesan-black pepper souffle; and five other courses.
ORDER » Meat- and seafood-eaters will find upscale presentations of local lamb loin, dayboat
scallops, California sturgeon and more on the chef’s tasting menu.
DETAILS » 14555 Big Basin Way, Saratoga; www. plumedhorse.com; $$-$$$$
When you’re willing to pay $18 for ramen: Ramen Shop, Oakland
We don’t like paying close to $20 for noodle soup any more than you do. But we’re helpless in the hands of Rockridge’s Ramen House and its artfully crafted bowls. We sit at the bar, the best seat in the house, forking over twenties as we watch bandana-ed cooks simmering pork bones and sauteing corn (for the butter corn shio ramen, our fave). To make matters worse, the appetizers are equally fresh and artfully prepared with the best ingredients possible. So it’s not a case of “Hey guys, wanna grab some ramen tonight?” It’s “I’m craving a bowl of elegant, organic noodle soup with non-greasy pork chashu, the perfect salt-cured egg and Jimmy Nardello peppers. Wanna?”
ORDER » Veggie Meyer lemon shoyu ramen, butter corn shio ramen, chicken karaage
DETAILS » 5822 College Ave., Oakland; www.ramenshop.com; $-$$
When you long for the best crispy chicken salad in what feels like Mykonos: Taverna, Palo Alto
Show us a Bay Area restaurant that has a memorable chicken salad on its lunch menu and we’ll be your best friend, especially when it’s as unique and habit-forming as Taverna’s. Here, chicken breast is breaded and fried in shredded phyllo dough and black sesame (yielding an audible crunch) and served atop a salad of gem lettuces, lightly pickled beets and cubes of feta that have been tossed in honey mustard dressing. Kokkari and Evvia alums are behind this chic, beautiful farm-to-table spot, where Greek pop music plays and the wine list has a Hellenic focus.
ORDER » Crispy chicken salad, grilled octopus, whole Pacific kampachi
DETAILS » 800 Emerson St., tavernarestaurant. squarespace.com; $$-$$$
When you want neighborhood feel with flawless food: Juanita & Maude, Albany
Sure, sometimes you want swanky surroundings. But our ideal restaurant is an upscale neighborhood spot, all muted colors and effortless feel, craft cocktails and utterly sensational food — served without an ounce of pretension. This farm-to-fork restaurant gets its name from chef Scott Eastman’s grandmother and mother, and its sublime pastas thanks to the near-decade the chef spent at Berkeley’s Corso. The rest of the New American menu is all kinds of delicious cross-cultural fun, from grilled swordfish with green papaya to grilled portobellos with goat cheese and herb salsa.
ORDER » Ricotta gnudi with basil pesto and mint, seared New York steak with chimichurri
DETAILS » 825 San Pablo Ave., www.juanita andmaude.com; $$
When you want the best Portuguese food and wine in the Bay Area:
Adega, San Jose
Adega pastry chef Jessica Carreira grew up in Little Portugal when this kitchen was the beloved Sousa’s. With Adega, the Carreira family and executive chef David Costa revive the tiny neighborhood’s roots with elevated Portuguese dishes, like braised pork belly with quail egg or ribeye with Iberico ham steak sauce, and Portuguese wines. Dine in Adega’s elegant, yet unstuffy dining room (three courses of your choice for an approachable $85) to feel like you’re in Lisbon, sipping roriz and nibbling salt cod like a boss.
ORDER » Creme de marisco (seafood bisque), polvo a lagareiro (oven-roasted octopus), arroz doce (fried coconut rice pudding)
DETAILS » 1614 Alum Rock Ave.; www.adega rest.com; $$$-$$$$
When tea leaf is the only salad: Burma Superstar, Alameda
Pour yourself a thirst-quenching gingery Burma cooler and gather around a table inside this bustling (read: always-packed) Alameda restaurant for the ultimate in Burmese cuisine. Also, give thanks that you’re not still driving out to San Francisco’s Inner Richmond and waiting two hours to eat amazing curry at the original location on Clement Street. Whether you prefer tucking into spicy pumpkin pork stew, hearty vegan samusa soup or that pungent-saltycrunchy salad, Burma Superstar and its sister location in Oakland always deliver on freshness, flavor and service.
ORDER » Samusa soup, pumpkin pork stew, tea leaf salad, Burmese cooler
DETAILS » 1345 Park St., Alameda; www. burmainc.com; $
When you want Indian food — with a twist: Rasa, Burlingame
Don’t be surprised by the mix of customers here. Rasa was a neighborhood go-to before attracting Michelin’s eye, which means owner Ajay Walia and chef Vijay Kumar still cater to both families with kids and date-night foodies. Their contemporary focus marries south Indian classics with seasonal, organic California ingredients: Sustainably caught halibut pollichathu, for example, comes perfectly cooked in a banana leaf with shallots and ginger and served with a bright side of green beans foogath. Appalam crackers adorn the stone-fruit salad. And spicy corn chaat is made with fresh Brentwood nuggets.
ORDER » Bombay sliders with spiced potato fritters, cardamom brulee, apricot velvet
DETAILS » 209 Park Road; rasaindian.com; $-$$
When you want house-made everything, including hand-churned butter: Homestead, Oakland
That’s pretty much all you need to know about Fred and Elizabeth Sassen’s attention to detail. They make their own butter, their own bread and their own bold-flavored everything from scratch, right down to the house-cured anchovies on the tomato carpaccio. Meats are grilled or wood-fired, and there’s always a vegetarianfriendly option on the small but beautifully curated menu, whether it’s shakshuka, curried butternut squash or a ratatouille gratin. It’s all unfussy perfection.
ORDER » Wood-fired anything, especially pork. Save room for dessert.
DETAILS » 4029 Piedmont Ave., homestead oakland.com; $$
When you need to scratch that salmon itch: Gochi Japanese Fusion Tapas, Cupertino
Fans line up at Cupertino’s Gochi (and its sister restaurant in Mountain View) for chef Masa Takei’s take on casual but elegant small plates, including sashimi, tataki — briefly seared, marinated and sliced albacore, mackerel or bonito — and hiyayakko, a cold tofu appetizer. The owner of one of the best palates we know tells us that if he had only one more meal to eat in a South Bay restaurant, it would be Gochi’s sake oyako meshi, the clay pot rice dish with grilled salmon and salmon roe.
ORDER » Sake oyako meshi, of course! Plus hamachi or another starter from the carpaccio menu
DETAILS » 19980 Homestead Road, plus a Mountain View location; www.gochifusiontapas.com; $
When you want cocktails with a side of magic: Bull Valley Roadhouse, Port Costa
This tiny riverside town emerges at the end of a long country lane like a twinkle-lit mirage, crowned by this retro-rustic marvel. The Roadhouse combines Victorian decor, pre-prohibition cocktails and reinvented American fare, all courtesy of a crew that includes Slanted Door alums. Belly up to the long Victorian bar for 19thcentury cocktails — hello, Bee’s Knees — and modern twists. Tiki Thursdays bring Singapore Slings and rum punches, too, served in amazing handcrafted tiki mugs made by the Roadhouse bartender.
ORDER » Slow-roasted Llano Seco pork stew served over polenta
DETAILS » 14 Canyon Lake Drive, www.bull valleyroadhouse.com; $$-$$$
When you’d like a few surprises (and some smoke) with your meal: Camper, Menlo Park
Chef-partner Greg Kuzia-carmel (Quince, Cotogna, Per Se) and his team use the element of surprise to elevate the Camper menu. Skillet cornbread comes with lightly smoked honey butter. Hasselback eggplant accompanies the flat iron steak. The addictive ketchup is a Catalan-spiced version. A drizzle of peach pit caramel tops the cobbler. No matter the season, this farm-to-table menu offers the unexpected.
ORDER » Piedmontese-style filled agnolotti pasta, any of the desserts.
DETAILS » 898 Santa Cruz Ave.; www.campermp. com; $$-$$$
When you’re all about mezcal flights: Comal, Berkeley
Best not wear a white shirt to this lively restaurant in Berkeley’s arts district. Whether it’s a trio of street tacos, roasted duck enchiladas or shareable Platos Fuertes, executive chef Matt Gandin’s regional Mexican menu showcases bright, bold flavors — and the deep crimson sauce on those must-have albondigas is going to get everywhere. The tortillas are made in-house, as are all the salsas and sauces. The cocktails are sensational. And clever acoustic engineering means you can actually hear your date or bestie.
ORDER » Those albondigas, of course, the enchiladas, and a tequila or mezcal flight.
DETAILS » 2020 Shattuck Ave., comalberkeley. com; $$
When you want to see Nick — and have dinner: Nick’s Next Door, Los Gatos
With apologies to “Casablanca,” everybody comes to Nick’s. That’s Nick’s Next Door, the restaurant owned and run by homegrown chef Nick Difu, whose long local résumé includes Nick’s on Main, 180, the Wine Cellar and Cafe Marcella. Devoted customers rave about the welcoming atmosphere — Nick is always there, cooking, greeting, making the rounds. And then there’s the super-consistent quality of the dishes, including the popular salmon with lemon risotto, duck confit and pan-roasted ribeye (with bone marrow and truffle fries) and veal chop (with butter beans and fried baby kale).
ORDER » Nani’s Meatloaf, a rich tribute to his Sicilian grandmother
DETAILS » 11 College Ave.; www.nicksnextdoor. com; $$
When you want world-class Italian fare in a jewel box setting: Belotti Ristorante, Oakland
Silky handmade pasta, deep complex sauces — and tiramisu, too? This tiny gem makes bestof lists all the time — and deservedly so. The vibe is all dark wood and deep, romantic hues. And Italian native and chef-owner Michele Belotti pours love and passion into his cooking, from the antipasto to the pillow-soft gnocchi alla Bolognese, spaghetti pomodoro with burrata and the five-hour brasato, a braised flat iron steak served with polenta and hen of the woods mushrooms. Hello, date night.
ORDER » Tagliatelle with grappa and sangiovese-marinated wild boar sugo. And that tiramisu.
DETAILS » 5403 College Ave., belottirb.com; $-$$
When the celebration calls for retro classics: Selby’s, Redwood City
It’s a new restaurant with the elegance of a 1940s supper house and updated classics such as lobster consomme, sweetbreads piccata, braised rabbit vol-au-vent and Delmonico steak with bordelaise sauce. The decor is equally glamorous. Thanks to the Bacchus group and executive chef Mark Sullivan, destination dining has returned to this stretch of the Peninsula.
ORDER » Dry-aged roast crown of duck for two with Robuchon’s potatoes.
DETAILS » 3001 El Camino Real; www.selbys restaurant.com; $$-$$$
When your ‘Top Chef’ obsession skews Spanish: Shakewell, Oakland
We can’t exactly jet-set off to Spain whenever we crave croquetas, but this tapas spot helmed by “Top Chef” alums caters to all our obsessions, from the craft cocktails — Shakewell, get it? — to the jamon Iberico de belotta, Spanish octopus and wood-fired paellas. Chef Jen Biesty’s Mediterranean-but-mostly-spanish small plates pair perfectly with cava, rosé sangria and cocktails made with rhum agricole and habanero-infused tequila. (They do brunch, too. Hello, fried chicken and churros.)
ORDER » Bacalao croquetas with squid ink aioli, clam-studded paella
DETAILS » 3407 Lakeshore Ave., www. shakewelloakland.com; $$ Where everything tastes good because it’s hearth-roasted: Black Sheep Brasserie, San Jose
Trendy restaurants come and go, but modern classics, like Black Sheep Brasserie, tend to have staying power. This refined brasserie, perfect for a date or dinner with the folks, helped put Willow Glen on the fine dining map, and it’s no wonder: Everything from executive chef Jeff Fitzgerald’s kitchen is good, especially if it’s coming out of the hearth, like “burnt” French onion soup with beef broth or a half chicken that’s first poached in mushroom butter. Desserts, including warm buttermilk beignets with maple-calvados caramel, are also consistently delicious.
ORDER » Duck liver mousse, house-made gnocchi, braised pork osso bucco.
DETAILS » 1202 Lincoln Ave., Suite C; bsbwillow glen.com; $$
When you want to delight vegans and omnivores alike: Gather, Berkeley
It’s all about root-to-shoot, head-to-tail, farmto-fork deliciousness at this renowned 10-yearold restaurant that caters every bit as much to vegans and vegetarians as it does to omnivores. The ingredients come from local farms and heritage breed ranches, and the meat is butchered in-house — but those veggie-forward flavors are so bold and bright, you may give up meat altogether. (Well, not the pancetta on the roasted corn pizza. Let’s not be hasty here.)
ORDER » Heirloom grains risotto, roasted corn pizza
DETAILS » 2200 Oxford St., www.gather restaurant.com; $$
When it’s time for white-tablecloth Italian: Donato Enoteca, Redwood City
Italian-born Donato Scotti’s roots are in Bergamo, near Lake Como, but his flagship restaurant and newer outposts (Donato & Co. in Berkeley, Cento Osteria in San Francisco) highlight many of the country’s regional cuisines. Housemade pastas and house-cured meats, along with California ingredients, turn rustic dishes upscale. A risotto is studded with crispy Niman Ranch pork belly. Monterey Bay calamari stars with tonnarelli pasta. And the wood-fired oven turns out pizzas topped with Watsonville artichokes and housemade Calabrian-style nduja.
ORDER » Bigoli pasta with nebbiolo-braised oxtail and, during late fall, the white truffle menu
DETAILS » 1041 Middlefield Road; www.donato enoteca.com; $$
When Charles Phan’s shaking beef invades your dreams: The Slanted Door, San Ramon
It was a big deal when Charles Phan opened The Slanted Door in the East Bay. The City Center Bishop Ranch restaurant lacks its sister’s Embarcadero view, but the food is just as memorable and there’s a massive, wrap-around exhibition kitchen to watch on bustling Saturday nights. Best of all, there’s no longer a bridge separating you from that legendary shaking beef or cellophane noodles brimming with Gulf crab. There’s also a killer Sunday afternoon happy hour not too many people know about — yet.
ORDER » SD spring rolls, shaking beef, cellophane noodles, lemongrass tofu
DETAILS » 6000 Bollinger Canyon Road, Suite 1300; www.slanteddoor-sanramon.com; $$-$$$
When you’d like to mix and match Mediterranean: Restaurant Asa, Los Altos
Andrew Welch’s Asa has developed a loyal following for his menu of Spanish- and Italianinfluenced dishes. Call it mix-and-match Mediterranean: Start with the duck-fat-roasted baby potatoes with house aioli, then veer toward the Iberian peninsula with the shrimp-chorizo paella Valencia or head east with the exotic mushroom pasta, handmade fettuccine with a silky sauce that gives the dish a roasted garlic finish. Speaking of compass directions, Welch’s next venture, Asa South, will open soon in Los Gatos.
ORDER » The Bowl of Soul’s fresh fish and Gulf shrimp in a tomato-seafood broth
DETAILS » 242 State St.; www.asalosaltos.com; $$
When you want a stellar wine country meal without stuffiness: Vineyard Table & Tasting Lounge, Livermore
Wente Vineyards’ estate restaurant has transformed from a stodgy, white-tableclothed steakhouse into a chic, yet relaxed, family-friendly destination that plays ’80s music and serves fresh, hyper-seasonal organic food grown onsite by a master gardener. Look for memorable
shared plates, like tomato salad with fried halloumi and smoked pork tenderloin with sweet corn relish, as well as inventive desserts, including a garden peach pop that’s served with a side of brut. Wine cocktails and flights — all Wente, natch — add to the updated wine country experience.
ORDER >> Diane’s Garden Bowl, dry-aged New York steak, smoked pork tenderloin
DETAILS >> 5050 Arroyo Road; wentevineyards. com/dine/restaurant; $-$$
When you know what it means to miss New Orleans: The Bywater, Los Gatos
Head to Los Gatos when you want a taste of New Orleans, minus the humidity. Manresa’s David Kinch opened this restaurant in late 2015 as his paean to the city where he fell in love with cooking. His chef de cuisine, Dave Morgan, has been drawing from his own experiences in New Orleans as well as highlighting the city’s other culinary influences. That’s why you’ll find dishes like Vietnamese braised short rib, Dave’s Famous fried mortadella sandwich and yaka mein, a Chinese/creole noodle soup; sharing menu space with the po boys and the red beans and rice. The lagniappe? A terrific New Orleans soundtrack.
ORDER >> Any gumbo, jambalaya or soft-shell crab dish on the menu, plus beignets for dessert.
DETAILS >> 532 N. Santa Cruz Ave.; www. thebywaterca.com; $-$$
When you crave handmade pasta — and audible conversation: Oliveto, Oakland
California meets Mediterranean fare at this venerable restaurant, where even the grains and flour are locally milled. The ingredients are impeccable and the seasonal menu offers something for everyone, from the pasta — hello, rigatoni with peaches and basil — to the mains. Adding to the bliss: The dining room isn’t just a perfect setting for date nights and special occasions. It’s been acoustically engineered, so you can actually — gasp! — hear your dining companions.
ORDER >> Any pasta — but especially the swoonworthy doppio ravioli
DETAILS >> 5655 College Ave., oliveto.com; $$
When you’d like a great farm-to-table meal: Flea Street Cafe, Menlo Park
Long before organic was cool, Cool was organic. That’s chef-owner Jesse Ziff Cool, who for four decades has espoused a philosophy of seasonal, organic cooking at her flagship Flea Street Cafe in Menlo Park. Meals here start with the restaurant’s legendary little buttermilk biscuits, giving you time to ponder the menu. Herbs and vegetables from her own garden as well as the restaurant’s star in the appetizers and entrees. Flea Street’s serene dining rooms, long a favorite of Peninsula natives, have been discovered by new Silicon Valley residents, so be sure to make reservations.
ORDER >> Anything seasonal, plus the clever Which Came First, chicken topped with softpoached egg raviolo
DETAILS >> 3607 Alameda de las Pulgas; www. cooleatz.com; $$
When you want epic legend, but laid-back style: Chez Panisse Restaurant and Cafe, Berkeley
Alice Waters’ iconic Chez Panisse launched California’s slow food, farm-to-fork, seasonal food revolution nearly 50 years ago in what soon became known as Berkeley’s Gourmet Ghetto. The downstairs dining room continues to turn out perfect prix fixe feasts all these decades later, although what was cutting edge then is no longer uncommon. Seasonal, locavore fare is everywhere these days — which is why we actually prefer the more laid-back, upstairs cafe, which combines both a prix fixe option and the flexibility of a la carte. So you can have your almond cake (or fig galette) and eat it, too.
ORDER >> Perfect chicken, glorious tarts and salads that have been elevated to an art form
DETAILS >> 1517 Shattuck Ave., www.chezpanisse. com; $$-$$$$
When what pairs best with your margarita is organic Mexican fare: Luna Mexican Kitchen, San Jose
When entrepreneurs Jo Lerma-lopez and John Lopez decided to renovate a vintage building on The Alameda, they also reinvigorated the local Mexican dining scene with a healthful, organic menu and no preservatives. That means tortillas pressed by hand daily from organic, non-gmo corn (right there in the dining room). Entrees made with Norcal’s noted provider of organic, free-range chicken, Mary’s. And heirloom beans from Rancho Gordo, the Napa specialist. The concept is so popular that a second location will be opening at Campbell’s Pruneyard.
ORDER >> Parrilladas grill with steak fajitas, cochinita pibil, the achiote/citrus-marinated pork
DETAILS >> 1495 The Alameda; www.luna mexicankitchen.com; $-$$
When Walnut Creek is the fastest route to Barcelona: Teleferic Barcelona, Walnut Creek
It’s been a long day. You want a rooftop bar, preferably with a dim sum cart serving skewered nibbles of Iberico jamon, manchego and meatballs. Oh, and you need a Catalan gin and tonic in your hand, the kind served in a huge wine glass stuffed with rosemary to highlight the spirit’s herbal notes. This is the closest thing you’ll get to that Spanish mirage. Barcelonan restaurateurs Soledad Urabayen and her son Xavi Padrosa opened their first U.S. restaurant in Walnut Creek three years ago with stellar sangrias, authentic paella and grilled Galician octopus. A Palo Alto restaurant is up next.
ORDER >> Sangria Barceloneta, lobster paella, grilled octopus, Catalan gin y tonic
DETAILS >> 1500 Mt. Diablo Blvd.; www.teleferic barcelona.com; $$
When you want to brag about that little gem you discovered: Chez Sovan, San Jose
Walk into this unassuming restaurant — can we just say hole-in-the-wall? — in North San Jose, and you’re likely to find both expats and locals eating. Chez Sovan draws fans from miles and miles for the exceptional Cambodian cuisine — marinated lemongrass beef skewers, paprika-tamarind noodles and especially the signature dish amok, an aromatic catfish mousse steamed in banana leaf. Founder Sovan Boun Thuy started cooking Cambodian food at this location in 1987; her son Brian Nong now runs the busy weekday-lunch-only establishment.
ORDER >> Kabob skewers (sach ang), amok, stirfried rice noodles (kew tiew cha)
DETAILS >> 923 Oakland Road; chez-sovan. cafe-inspector.com; $
When you want city glitz and truffle grilled cheese: Sabio on Main, Pleasanton
The decor may be Spanish-inspired — and the Chef’s Gin and Tonic definitely is. But chef Francis X. Hogan’s menu is decidedly Californiameets-global, from the Sunol tomato panzanella with burrata to the tempura squash blossoms. Brunch, with its short-rib hash, tasso ham benedict and Graceland banana French toast, is stellar. And the happy hour menu may be the happiest — and lengthiest — one around.
ORDER >> Truffle grilled cheese with Seka Hills honey, loco moco with house-made Spam at brunch
DETAILS >> 501 Main St., www.sabiopleasanton. com; $$
When you want to try every trendy little thing on the menu: Orchard City Kitchen, Campbell
Chef-owner Jeffrey Stout’s popular, boisterous place at the Pruneyard boasts the most eclectic menu in the South Bay — and it changes frequently, so you’ll never be bored. Bring friends to share a feast of seasonal riffs on global faves. The fun “they’re combining what?!” small plates recently included torn salmon with za’atar and watermelon; street corn with Parmigiano fonduta, Fresno chiles and black garlic; and Tater Tot poutine with Japanese curry and Muenster. Coming later this year: Stout’s opening a highend steakhouse at this center.
ORDER >> The irresistible Triple B (biscuits, bacon, honey butter), sweet-spicy KFC (Korean fried chicken)
DETAILS >> 1875 S. Bascom Ave.; www.orchard citykitchen.com; $
When you dream of Paris in the burbs: Reve Bistro, Lafayette
All airy whimsy and sparkling chandeliers, Reve is a breath of fresh Parisian air, a taste of Saint-germain-des-près in a small suburban strip mall. But the French fantasy takes over as
soon as the door closes behind you. Chef Paul Magu’s bistro is a French dream — a reve — from the crisp black-and-white checked linens to the escargot, rabbit rillettes and moules frites.
ORDER >> Gougere, steak frites with bearnaise
DETAILS >> 960 Moraga Road; revebistro.com; $$-$$$
When you’re at the mall and require omakase sushi to keep shopping: Sanraku, San Jose
A tasting menu of the finest fish flown in fresh daily from Tokyo? Sure, maybe at Valley Fair, home to Versace and Louis Vuitton. But Westfield Oakridge doesn’t even have a Gap. What it lacks in clothing it makes up for in premium Japanese sushi at this spotless restaurant with latticed wooden walls, Japanese-trained chefs and impeccable service. The seven-course omakase ($48 lunch; $88 dinner) changes monthly and currently includes wafu, a Japanese-style sous vide steak. Just want sushi? Get the Tokujo chef’s choice of seven nigiri — including torched barracuda on our visit.
ORDER >> Sushi tokujo, grilled squid, anything on the osusume menu
DETAILS >> 925 Blossom Hill Road, near Lolli and Pops; www.sanraku.com; $$-$$$
When you want hustle, bustle — and sublime soup: Wood Tavern, Oakland
Rebekah and Rich Wood’s 12-year-old American brasserie is a vibrant, bustling affair, refined and rustic at the same time, with a seasonal menu by executive chef Yang Peng that just makes us happy. The Butcher Block showcases charcuterie and terrines. The immense grilled pork chops have a cult following. And we can remember every soup we’ve ever had here. Mmm, corn and poblano chile … with corn and jalapeño relish.
ORDER >> Di Steffano burrata and tomato panzanella, fettucine with Italian sausage and Bellwether ricotta — and soup
DETAILS >> 6317 College Ave., woodtavern.net; $$
When you’re dying for Pakistani samosas like Nani used to make: Zareen’s, Palo Alto
It didn’t take long for the Peninsula to fall in love with Zareen Khan’s wholesome kebabs, curries and Desi twists on burgers and wraps. But it’s the crispy, handmade chicken memoni samosas — her mother’s recipe, double-wrapped and coated in fiery spices — that will send you running back to the fast-casual eatery to scrawl your praises on the bright red wall, where you’ll also find a curated lending library and South Asian pop art murals. Zareen’s is the place you go when cravings for spicy food hit an apex, and when you’d rather peruse a book like “I Am Malala” than scroll mindlessly through your phone while you await your order. The chai is off the hook, too.
ORDER >> Samosas, beef chapli kebab burger, silver spoon parathi rolls
DETAILS >> 365 S. California St. Also in Mountain View; www.zareensrestaurant.com; $
When you want duck pate with a dash of Bay Area foodie history: The Wolf, Oakland
When Michael Wild opened his Oakland restaurant in 1975, Bay Wolf’s fresh, seasonal Chez Panisse-style fare drew wows — and its duck dishes soon took their own place in the foodie pantheon. Today the baton is carried by Wood Tavern owners Rebekah and Rich Wood, whose take on The Wolf combines modern sensibilities with seasonal ingredients and charming echoes of those French-inspired dishes.
ORDER >> The seafood is top-notch, but don’t miss the decadent duck and chicken liver pate.
DETAILS >> 3853 Piedmont Ave., www.thewolf oakland.com; $$
When you want alfresco brunch and bottomless mimosas during the week:
The Table, San Jose
This indoor-outdoor gem is known far beyond its Willow Glen neighborhood for serving an epic
weekend brunch (and lines of hangry hopefuls). Better to play hooky on a Wednesday, Thursday or Friday, skip the line and tuck into a nearly identical menu, with sugar-dusted ricotta beignets, impossibly soft scrambled eggs and seasonal tartines (currently, salmon and horseradish cream) we still think about. And, yes, the mimosas are bottomless those days. Did we mention that chef Robert Dasalla’s lunches and dinners are equally impressive?
ORDER >> Beignets, salmon tartine, avocado and crab toast
DETAILS >> 1110 Willow St.; www.thetablesj.com; $-$$
When you’re craving authentic Italian, but the Autostrada’s too far: A16 Rockridge, Oakland
Sensational cocktails, Neapolitan-style pizza and stellar pasta are hallmarks at this East Bay offshoot of San Francisco’s A16, both named for the Autostrada that straddles Campania, running from sea to sea. The seafood and gnocchi — mmm, lemon ricotta — are standouts here, but we are helpless to resist anything that emerges from that wood-fired oven, especially those blistered, thin-crust pizzas, served with scissors for slicing.
ORDER >> Salsiccia pizza with housemade sausage, broccoli rabe, fior di latte and chiles
DETAILS >> 5356 College Ave., www.a16pizza.com; $-$$
When the noodle-and-strudel urge hits: Naschmarkt, Campbell
Named after the largest open-air produce market in Vienna, this spot specializes in all the Austrian goodies, from smoked pork bratwurst and beef goulash to our favorite, Wiener schnitzel with lingonberry sauce, in minimalist, family-friendly digs. As for the noodles, you can order the house-made spaetzle as a starter or try it as a side. Chef Matthias Froeschl supplements the New Austrian menu with seasonal California dishes. For dessert? Besides apple strudel, there’s a Salzburg Nockerl souffle and a Swiss meringue.
ORDER >> Pair your meal with a gewürz, grüner veltliner or zweigelt from the wine list.
DETAILS >> 384 E. Campbell Ave., Campbell; www. naschmarkt-restaurant.com; $$
When all you can think about is fried chicken and shrimp and grits: Playt, Hayward
When Oakland’s Pican shuttered in 2017, devotees of the Southern standout flocked to owner Michael Leblanc’s next restaurant, Playt — and for many delicious reasons, including shrimp and grits with brown-butter Worcestershire gravy, and buttermilk fried chicken that’s crisp and juicy in all the right places (and offered as a Benedict for brunch). Chef Jerome “Spike” Williams’ peach cobbler is still worth the drive, wherever you live. And while the interior isn’t nearly as moody-awesome and New Orleans-esque as Pican used to be, the food is excellent.
ORDER >> Braised beef short ribs, fried chicken, shrimp and grits, peach cobbler
DETAILS >> 1036 B St.; playtonb.com; $-$$
When you’re near SJSU and want soup. And noodles. And shrimp cupcakes: Vung Tau, San Jose
Wholesome food can be hard to find on the outskirts of downtown San Jose, unless you follow the families to this traditional Vietnamese restaurant. Vung Tau has been an institution since 1985, known for its massive menu of authentic curries, noodle soups, rice dishes and a few hard-to-find specialties. Start with banh khot, crispy rice “cupcakes” filled with shrimp and a distinct coconut milk creaminess. They’re finished with a sprinkle of dried shrimp and served with fish sauce, herbs and crisp romaine leaves to make little wraps that hit every comforting button: Sweet, funky, salty, crunchy.
ORDER >> Banh khot, lemongrass beef, catfish tamarind soup with taro stems
DETAILS >> 535 E. Santa Clara St. Also in Milpitas and Newark; www.vungtaurestaurant.com; $-$$
When you insist on house-made lamb pastrami at an outside-only restaurant: Salt Craft, Pleasanton
When executive chef Matt Greco left Wente Vineyards to open his own restaurant, it turned out to be an all-alfresco, all-the-time affair, with full service and twinkly lights. This was a risk to begin with — the Bay Area gets some rain, after all — but Greco took it further, doing everything in-house, right down to his breads, and serving breakfast, lunch, dinner, brunch and dessert. Those breads, including the coffee rye, which accompanies the signature lamb pastrami starter, are outstanding. Each pink piece of pastrami is draped over a secret sauce, and styled into a wreath topped with pickled onions.
ORDER >> Lamb pastrami, maple-bourbon miso chicken
DETAILS >> 377 St. Mary’s St.; www.saltcraft pleasanton.com; $-$$
When drippy pomegranate lambtopped hummus calls your name: Oren’s Hummus, Cupertino
Everyone claims they know where to find the best hummus. Guess what? It’s at Oren’s Hummus. Oren and Nancy Dobronsky have re-created the creamy, just-right-amount-of-tahini hummus of Oren’s native Tel Aviv and shared it with the Bay Area. All four restaurants are bright, modern and totally casual, with a plethora of Israeli eats. But it’s those hummus bowls, served with warm, puffy pita and topped with everything from roasted cauliflower and golden raisins to pomegranate-braised lamb shoulder, that get us every single time.
ORDER >> Hummus bowls, pita sabich, Romanian eggplant DETAILS >> 19419 Stevens Creek Blvd. Also in Palo Alto, Mountain View and San Francisco; orenshummus.com; $ When you’re craving a sandwich the size of your head: Bakesale Betty, Oakland
The line wraps round the corner. The tables are ironing boards. And you’d best bring a buddy to share that signature slaw-topped, fried chicken sandwich — or stretchy pants, because once you start solo, resistance is futile. You’ll be powerless to stop powering down this delicious thing — or the strawberrry shortcake to follow. Alison Barakat’s tiny Temescal storefront is open just three hours a day for lunch. Get there early.
ORDER >> The fried chicken sandwich, of course. And shortcake.
DETAILS >> 5098 Telegraph Ave.; $