The Mercury News

Behold the ultimate breakfast — a scrambled egg, bacon and melty cheese-filled hand pie.

A BACON, EGG AND SWISS HAND PIE

- By Jackie Burrell jburrell@bayareanew­sgroup.com

Is there anyone who doesn’t love an eggy breakfast sandwich? Food writer Cathy Barrow — who writes the “Bring It” column for the Washington Post — decided to take that basic concept and elevate it. The result? All that deliciousn­ess — crunchy bacon, softly scrambled eggs and melty cheese — encased in a pie dough tailor-made for lovers of everything bagels, and baked up in individual servings.

The breakfast hand-pie recipe is one of more than 60 in Barrow’s new cookbook, “When Pies Fly: Handmade Pastries from Strudels to Stromboli, Empanadas to Knishes” (Grand Central Publishing, $30), which came out this fall. You’ll find everything in here from Savory Nectarine Marscapone Tart to Pork Pastor Empanadas, Spiced Apple Strudels and Thanksgivi­ng-in-a-bite Pie Poppers.

This recipe relies on a couple of brilliant tricks. First, the dough is spiked with a homemade everything-but-the-bagel seasoning that adds crunchines­s and vibrant flavor to the mix. Second, remember that those eggs are going to cook twice so, Barrow says, “slightly undercook the eggs for silky, tender curds in the final pie.”

And third, she says, remember that these little pies — baked or unbaked — can be frozen, then popped into the oven on a busy morning, which makes it “the ideal breakfast for all the on-the-go people in your household.”

Here’s how it’s done.

Bacon, Egg and Swiss Hand Pies

Makes 12

INGREDIENT­S

6 slices thick-cut smoked bacon, diced

6 large eggs

2 tablespoon­s cool water

¼ teaspoon herbes de Provence

½ teaspoon kosher salt

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

½ cup shredded Jarlsberg or another firm Swiss-style cheese

3 tablespoon­s chopped fresh chives 2recipes Everything Spice Pie Dough (below), formed into square blocks Egg wash (1 egg beaten with 1 tablespoon cool water and ¼ teaspoon kosher salt)

DIRECTIONS

Line a dinner plate with paper towels. Cook the bacon in a large nonstick skillet over medium heat until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon to the paper-lined plate. Pour off all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat.

In a bowl, beat the eggs, water, herbs, salt, and pepper until foamy and light. Return the pan to medium heat and add the eggs to the hot bacon fat. With a silicone spatula, push the eggs across the pan, scraping the cooked eggs off the bottom of the pan in large, fluffy curds that are tender and slightly moist. The eggs will take no more than 8 minutes. Do not let them brown or dry out; remember they will be baked again, inside the pie. Scrape the eggs into a medium bowl and fold in the bacon, cheese, and chives. Cool completely.

Line two baking sheets with parchment. Place a baking steel, baking stone or inverted baking sheet on the center rack and heat the oven to 400 degrees. Remove one block of dough from the refrigerat­or. Roll out the dough to an approximat­e 11-inch square and cut into 12rectangl­es, each 3½- to 4½inch. Add a packed scant ¼ cup filling to one rectangle and form a hand pie with a second rectangle. Transfer to a baking sheet and firmly fork-crimp the edges. Vent with three short diagonal slashes across the top. Brush the surface with egg wash. Continue to make and slash the remaining pies. Refrigerat­e or freeze while repeating the process with the other block of pie dough to make a total of 12 hand pies.

Bake the hand pies for 30 to 35 minutes, until deeply golden brown, switching their position from top to bottom and front to back halfway through the bake. Freeze hand pies (baked or unbaked) for up to 3 months.

Everything Spice Pie Dough

Makes 1recipe pie dough INGREDIENT­S

1 1/3 cups all-purpose flour 8tablespoo­ns unsalted butter, cubed and frozen for 20 minutes

1 tablespoon Everything Spice Mix (recipe follows)

1/8 teaspoon kosher salt

¼ cup ice water

DIRECTIONS

Using a food processor fitted with the metal blade, combine the flour, butter, everything spice mix and salt, using the pulse function to cut the flour and butter into flour-covered pea-sized pieces, about 15quick pulses. Add the ice water all at once and process until the dough almost comes together in a ball. All the flour will be dampened and the dough will clump.

Spend time on this next step because the more compact and precise the dough, the easier it is to roll to the correct size and thickness: Form an X with two long pieces of overlappin­g plastic wrap and lightly flour the surface. Dump the dough onto the center of the plastic wrap, scraping the processor bowl clean. Wrap the sloppy gathering of dough in plastic and, at the same time, use a bench scraper (not your warm hands that might melt the butter clumps) to form the dough into a 4-inch disk or a 3½- by 3½-inch block. Once wrapped, use a rolling pin to gently press across the surface of the dough, then flip it over and do the same on the other side.

Now let it rest: Refrigerat­e the dough for at least 4hours or preferably overnight. Alternativ­ely, slip the plasticwra­pped dough block into a ziptop bag and freeze it for up to 3months. Defrost gently, overnight in the refrigerat­or.

Everything Spice Mix

Makes about ¼ cup

INGREDIENT­S

2 tablespoon­s poppy seeds

2tablespoo­n toasted sesame seeds

1 tablespoon dried minced onion 2

teaspoons dried minced garlic

2 teaspoons Maldon salt or coarse fleur de sel

Directions: In a small jar, mix poppy seeds, sesame seeds, onion, garlic and salt. Cover and store in the refrigerat­or.

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 ?? GRAND CENTRAL PUBLISHING ?? Filled with scrambled eggs, crunchy bacon and a sprinkling of everything-butthe-bagel seasoning, these delicious little hand pies make a great breakfast on the go. They’re from Cathy Barrow’s new “When Pies Fly” cookbook.
GRAND CENTRAL PUBLISHING Filled with scrambled eggs, crunchy bacon and a sprinkling of everything-butthe-bagel seasoning, these delicious little hand pies make a great breakfast on the go. They’re from Cathy Barrow’s new “When Pies Fly” cookbook.

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