The Mercury News

Pumpkin pie — the good and the gluey

- Jolene THYM COLUMNIST

Who makes the best pumpkin pie? If the answer is “me,” then there’s no need to keep reading. This is for the rest of the pumpkin pie-loving masses, who look forward to their pumpkin pie fix every holiday and throughout the wintry season.

Pumpkin spiceflavo­red donuts, muffins and pancakes are good. Pumpkin spice lattes are tasty. But the real deal is the traditiona­l pumpkin pie, toasty pastry crust filled with a sweet, spicy pumpkin puree. It’s a creamy, sweet and semi-healthy dessert that’s the perfect end to any holiday meal, including New Year’s.

Bakers insist that there’s nothing difficult about making a decent pumpkin pie, but don’t believe it.

Just making a perfect crust and getting the liquid-filled pastry to the oven without spillage is no job for amateurs. And the trick to preserving flaky pastry on a pumpkin pie? That’s either chance or crazy skill.

Thankfully, pumpkin pie is such a popular classic that it’s easy to find — both fresh and frozen. We put our forks to work on 10 options — hoping to find storebough­t bites that hit all the right notes.

Great pumpkin pie has flaky, buttery crust, and a filling that’s stirred up with just the right balance of sugar and spice.

Sadly, too many spices, gluey filling and achingly sweet fillings abound, resulting in insultingl­y horrid bites that fall so far short of tradition, they don’t deserve to be served.

Here’s the scoop on pumpkin pies that will bring smiles to the table — and those that will leave pumpkin pie lovers looking for the nearest trash bin. Nutrition info refers to 4 to 4¾ ounces of pie, or one healthy slice.

Whole Foods Pumpkin Pie

A sizable hit of cinnamon and enough sugar to underscore the earthy flavor of pumpkin makes this a delicious choice. The tender crust has just enough salt to tame the sweet filling. 310 calories, 14 g fat, 310 mg sodium, 26 g sugar. $9.99 for 28 ounces. ★★★★

Jessie’s Pumpkin Pie

Flaky crust and fresh, pumpkin-forward flavor make this one of the best supermarke­t pumpkin pies for those who prefer minimal spice. 321 calories, 13 g fat, 353 mg sodium, 28 g sugar. $5.99 for 24 ounces at Safeway. ★★★★

Raley’s Pumpkin Pie

The homemade flavor of this smooth, sweet pudding is a win. Spices are balanced and the pumpkin shines through. A bit less sugar would improve the flavor. 279 calories, 9 g fat, 293 mg sodium, 24 g sugar. $7.99 for 22 ounces. ★★★

Costco Pumpkin Pie

This colossal, bargainpri­ced pie isn’t special in any way, but it works. The crust is fair, but it tastes like shortening, and the filling made with organic pumpkin is basic. No surprises, no big offenses. 310 calories, 11 g fat, 370 mg sodium, 30 g sugar. $7.99 for 3.63 pounds. ★★★

Nation’s Giant Burgers Pumpkin Pie

This handsome pie has lots of pumpkin and just a touch of spice, but the sticky consistenc­y is bothersome. It’s also way too sweet. 378 calories, 13 g fat, 270 mg sodium, 44 g sugar. $4.85 for a quarter pie. ★★

Safeway Pumpkin Pie

Under-spiced and overly sweet filling detract from this impressive-looking pie, but the crust is gorgeous. 310 calories, 11 g fat, 270 mg sodium, 31 g sugar. $9.49 for 2 pounds, 9 ounces. ★★

First Street Pumpkin Pie

Sticky texture and far too much sugar make this fairly good-looking pie substandar­d in so many ways. And extra-thick, soggy bottom crust anchors it in the below-average category. 300 calories, 12 g fat, 330 mg sodium, 26 g sugar. $4.49 for 24 ounces at Smart & Final. ★

Marie Callender’s Pumpkin Pie

There’s so much molasses and brown sugar in this pie that it tastes like candy. 360 calories, 13 g fat, 230 mg sodium, 31 g sugar. $8.99 for 36 ounces at Lucky. ★

Sara Lee Pumpkin Pie with Pumpkin & Spices

A ridiculous­ly salty crust and the bitter aftertaste of far too much cinnamon makes this a very unfortunat­e pie. 260 calories, 11 g fat, 340 mg sodium, 21 g sugar. $7.99 for 34 ounces at Lucky. ★

Mrs. Smith’s Original Pumpkin Pie

If you’re hoping for pumpkin glue, this won’t disappoint. It has so much starch and food gum that it’s like eating paste. Disgusting. 320 calories, 13 g fat, 360 mg sodium, 27 g sugar. $5.99 for 37 ounces at Smart & Final. ( No stars)

 ?? MARK DUFRENE — STAFF ARCHIVES ?? There are some very good storebough­t pumpkin pies out there — and some very bad ones, too.
MARK DUFRENE — STAFF ARCHIVES There are some very good storebough­t pumpkin pies out there — and some very bad ones, too.
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