The best tahini — and the worst
Anyone who has bought a jar of tahini for a recipe and let the remainder sit in the fridge for a year or more, raise your hand. Don’t feel bad. That’s what happens when you’re not quite sure how to use it.
Even though tahini has been around for two centuries — and is a prized pantry item throughout Africa, Asia and Greece — it remains a bit of a mystery to many home cooks. Sure, it’s a go-to for making hummus, baba ghanoush and Asian salad dressing, but what else?
Fans of tahini consider the nutty, earthy, bitter sesame seed puree a flavor booster for dishes across the menu. It adds creamy, umami yumminess to soups, curries and sauces, and can be tossed with noodles, stirred into rice or drizzled on vegetables. It’s also amazing dripped on ice cream, swirled into brownies or used as a substitute for oil in cakes and cookies.
Variations on the hearthealthy and proteinrich paste are surprising. They range from off-white to deep brown in color, chunky to pourable, nearly sweet to shockingly bitter. Those differences can be attributed to several factors, including the source and freshness of the seeds, whether the seeds are raw or toasted first, hulled or not, and how long they are processed.
Sesame seeds are grown all over the globe, with the biggest producers being Tanzania, India and Sudan. But the most prized sesame seed is the white Humera that hails from Ethiopia, a buttery flavored, extra oily seed that makes for a complex flavored, extra-silky puree.
Great tahini is made with fresh, top quality sesame seeds. It tastes like a crushed sesame seed: nutty, earthy and rich, with a hint of bitterness. Bad tahini is dank, murky, old, bland — and so far from delicious that it doesn’t warrant a second taste. Note that we only tasted tahini made with sesame seeds and salt. We did not include varieties that add soy and sweeteners.
Here’s the scoop on the silky, deliciously earthy varieties that won’t get lost in the fridge — and the bland, watered-down drips to forget. Nutrition info refers to 2 tablespoons.
Soom
Made from lightly roasted white Humera seeds, this paste is incredibly buttery, clean and luscious. It’s far too oily to use as a spread, but perfect for dressings, sauces, marinades and more. 190 calories, 17 g fat, no sodium, 6 g protein. $16.99 for two 16-ounce jars online. ★★★★
Artisana Organics Raw Tahini
Those who love halvah and other Middle Eastern desserts will enjoy this raw tahini that breaks all the rules. Made in Oakland, it has a thick, almost chewable consistency — akin to chunky peanut butter. The flavor is bold and nutty, with just a trace of bitterness. 180 calories, 16 g fat, no sodium, 6 g protein. $5.99 for 16 ounces at Grocery Outlet. ★★★★
Kevala Organic Sesame Tahini
Patience is required to stir this into a smooth, savory sauce, but it’s worth the effort. It has deep sesame flavor and just the right bitter edge to wake up a boring dish. 176 calories, 16 g fat, 5 mg sodium, 5 g protein. $7.99 for 16 ounces at Sprouts. ★★★★
Trader Joe’s Organic Tahini
Mellow, almost sweet flavor notes and a toasty finish make this textural mix spoon-worthy. This is a mix for people who like the crackly texture of sesame between their teeth. 220 calories, 19 g fat, 15 mg sodium, 8 g protein. $3.69 for 10.6 ounces. ★★★★
Krinos Imported Tahini
Fans of bitter foods will love this silky, robust version. It’s sesame-forward and has a huge bitter kick, so use it sparingly. 223 calories, 19 g fat, 25 mg sodium, 7 g protein. $8.49 for 16 ounces at Lucky. ★★★
365 Whole Foods
This extra-drippy sauce hits all the notes in a classic tahini. It’s nutty and deep, with a pleasant bitter note that washes over the tongue. 190 calories, 17 g fat, 50 mg sodium, 6 g protein. $6.39 for 16 ounces. ★★★
Joyva Sesame Tahini
The contents of this can are not like any other tahini. It’s deep brown in color and stirs up into a saucy, textural puree that is so toasty in flavor, it’s reminiscent of peanut butter. 220 calories, 20 g fat, 115 mg sodium, 10 g protein. $7.99 for 15 ounces. ★★★
Once Again Organic Unsweetened Tahini
Those who don’t really like tahini and can’t tolerate bitter foods will be pleased with this clean, thick paste that tastes like untoasted sesame seeds. It’s ultra-fresh, if a bit bland. 210 calories, 19 g fat, no sodium, 6 g protein. $9.49 for 16 ounces at Raley’s. ★★★
Sadaf Tahini
This silky sauce made with domestic sesame delivers a mouthful of mildly toasted sesame, but it lacks freshness. 193 calories, 16 g fat, 2 mg sodium, 7.5 g protein. $6.99 for 16 ounces at 99 Ranch. ★★
Sprouts Organic Unsalted Tahini
Consider this extra-dark roasted sauce an acceptable compromise. It’s a bit too sweet and lacking in structure, but it would work in a pinch. 190 calories, 17 g fat, no sodium, 7 g protein. $6.29 for 16 ounces. ★
Achva Organic Tahini
The muddy, dank flavor of this bitter blend made in Israel makes it a poor choice. It’s toasty, but so bitter that the flavor of sesame is lost. 190 calories, 17 g fat, no sodium, 7 g sugar. $5.69 for 17.6 ounces at 99 Ranch. ★
Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@ gmail.com.
California’s wineries are starting to reopen once more for tastings by reservation. But if you’re sticking close to home, don’t fret. You can still enjoy a bit of that fun via virtual wine and beer tastings. Here’s just a sampling of events online and in real life.
Alfaro Family Vineyards Dinner: 6 p.m. March 25, The Patio by Alexander’s Steakhouse, 680 Folsom St., San Francisco. Enjoy a four-course tasting menu from executive chef Eric Upper accompanied by Alfaro Family Vineyards wine pairings, with winemaker Ryan Alfaro on hand to talk about this family’s winery. $165. www. alexanderssteakhouse.com/location/the-patio-sf
Bouchaine Vineyards: Order a Bouchaine Winemaker Tasting Kit delivered to your home, then book a virtual wine tasting appointment online. Each kit provides tasting notes and vintage summaries, so you’ll be all set for your private tasting with a host — seated before the panoramic view of Bouchaine Vineyards — who will lead you and your guests through a discussion of the wines. www.bouchaine.com Bent Creek Winery: Pack a picnic and head to the Livermore Valley for an hourlong wine tasting at this recently reopened winery. Friday-sunday by appointment only at 5455 Greenville Road, Livermore. www. bentcreekwinery.com
Storrs Winery and Vineyards: This winery on the Corralitos wine trail is offering weekend tastings by appointment at the Winery @ the Quarry, 1560 Pleasant Valley Road, Aptos, and winery pickup at the Old Sash Mill in Santa Cruz; www.storrswine.com. Garre Winery: This Livermore winery has reopened for patio wine tasting sessions Friday-sunday and tasty fare at the alfresco cafe, which is open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m Monday-thursday and Sundays, and 11:30 a.m. to 6:30 p.m. Friday-saturday at 7986 Tesla Road, Livermore. www. garrewinery.com
Savannah-chanelle Vineyards: This Saratoga winery has reopened for bottle service and wines by the glass Wednesday-sunday. Advance reservations are a must, as are masks, and there is a bottle minimum per party. 23600 Congress Springs Road, Saratoga; www.savannahchanelle.com
Far Niente Family of Wineries: Guests have the opportunity to ask wine-related questions, while learning more about the wines and winery. Book a date and select a wine package that will be shipped directly to your door. www.exploretock.com/ farnientewinery
Flowers Vineyards & Winery’s Indefinite Virtual Tasting Experiences: Offering 30-minute daily virtual tastings of pinot noir or estate flights, or you can customize a tasting with your favorite Flowers wines. www.flowerswinery.com/virtual-tastings
Gloria Ferrer Virtual Tastings: This Sonoma Valley winery offers private, virtual tasting experiences with wine educators, who sip along with you through a selection of Gloria Ferrer wines. You can taste with just your household or invite friends to join in via Zoom. The Trio of Sparkling Wine & Chocolate Pairing experience ($115), for example, includes three bottles of sparkling wine and a 12-piece box of chocolate truffles. Details: www.gloriaferrer.com.