The best latkes — and the limpest

Salty, savory bites of crispy, fried potato pancakes topped with a spoonful of sour cream, a sprinkling of chives or a side of applesauce are a comforting meal, a genius appetizer and a perfect snack. They’re also a classic dish for Hanukkah, the Jewish holiday also known as the Festival of Lights.

The rich history of latkes is full of adventure and intrigue — and a miracle — but the tradition of eating them during Hanukkah may also be tied to their utter deliciousness. The crispy combination of fried potato, onion and eggs is hard to resist.

Of course, making and frying up mounds of potato pancakes is a messy kitchen chore. Many restaurants and food companies take latke orders for the holiday, but prices can be high — $60-$80 for a few dozen latkes.

The good news is that there are a handful of affordable, pre-made options worth checking out, including both mixes and pre-fried, frozen patties.

Whether frozen or prepared with a mix, the best latkes have a bit of potato texture, lots of fresh potato flavor and just the right hit of onion. The worst are rubbery rounds that bear no resemblance to latkes.

Here are details on the tastiest latkes worthy of a spot on the holiday table, and the murky, tasteless cakes that can’t be saved with any amount of applesauce or sour cream. Nutrition info refers to about two 2.5-inch wide prepared pancakes.

Manischewitz Potato Pancake Mix

This gluten-free mix looks like panko and stirs up very thin, but the cooked cakes deliver bold potato and onion flavors. Cut the salt and these would be even better. Note that the company markets several different potato pancake versions. 115 calories, 2 g fat, 500 mg sodium, 3 g protein. $3.99 for 6 ounces at Safeway. \*\*\*/*

Streit’s Vegetable Potato Pancake Mix

Chunky and colorful thanks

to flecks of carrot, this mix makes for a textural pancake with pleasant flavor. Note that the large chunks of potato require a longer soak time to fully rehydrate. 105 calories, 1 g fat, 390 mg sodium, 3 g protein. $4.49 for 6 ounces at Safeway. \*\*\*

Golden Traditional Latke Potato Pancakes

Those who like a potato pancake with texture will approve of these small, ultra-crispy frozen pancakes.

The onion flavor is understated, but the salt is in check. 150 calories, 6 g fat, 350 mg sodium, 3 g protein. $4.29 for 8 pancakes at Raley’s. \*\*/*

Trader Joe’s Traditional Latke Potato Pancakes

A lack of salt and a mere trace of raw onion are the primary issues with these handsome, but nearly flavor-free frozen pancakes. 150 calories, 6 g fat, 350 mg sodium, 3 g protein. $2.69 for 8 pancakes. \*

Knorr Potato Pancake Mix

These pale cakes turn out flabby and the flavors are murky due to the addition of preservatives. Note that this is imported from Poland and has minimal instructions in English. 170 calories, 10 g fat, 375 mg sodium, 3 g protein. $9.99 for 7.05 ounces on Amazon. Hmm, you might want to haul out the potatoes and grater after all. /*