Requests pour in for free 177-year-old sourdough starter
Acclaimed ingredients reportedly traveled the Oregon Trail in 1847
For almost a quarter-century, Mary Buckingham has been the keeper of a special mailbox where breadmakers from around the world send requests for free sourdough starter that claims lineage to the historic Oregon Trail.
In a typical winter, she would field between 30 and 150 weekly requests at her home in Greeley, Colo.
But in January, a video about the starter and its ties to the Oregon Trail went viral on TikTok, causing “an unbelievable flood” of mail, Buckingham said. “This week, we have well over 1,000 requests coming in. It's insane.”
It's easy to see the allure of baking with such an illustrious artifact. The sourdough starter belonged to the late Carl Griffith, a native Oregonian who inherited the living heirloom when his parents died. The starter had been his family for many generations, reportedly traveling west with his ancestors from Missouri along the Oregon Trail in 1847, according to a brochure Griffith wrote in 1996.
Griffith, who was born in 1919, first learned to use the sourdough starter at age 10 on his family's homestead in southeastern Oregon.
In later years, he was known for sharing his dried starter with anyone who sent him a self-addressed and stamped envelope. It caught traction in the early internet forums of the 1990s, where the starter not only earned a reputation for its vitality but also built a virtual community of likeminded bakers who exchanged tricks of the trade.
“It's strong, it's stable. It raises bread very nicely, and it's everything you want in a starter,” said Buckingham, who was part of the original foodie-focused group on Usenet.
When Griffith died in 2000,
members of the forum set up The 1847 Oregon Trail Sourdough Preservation Society to keep both his legacy and sourdough starter alive. According to Buckingham, Griffith's remaining family wasn't interested in maintaining the starter or the project.
As of 2023, the society had mailed nearly 65,000 baggies of dried starter to bakers across the globe. The most common international destinations include Canada, the United Kingdom and Germany, Buckingham said, but
she's hard-pressed to recall countries besides China and Russia she hasn't mailed to.
“I even got a request from Ukraine in 2022 right before the attack (by Russian troops), some person in Kyiv,” Buckingham said.
Buckingham is just one volunteer in a nationwide network of people known as “Carl's friends” who continue to share his starter. She collects the mail and ensures each envelope is adequately filled out and stamped. Bucking
ham then mails the envelopes to a “grower” in the Pacific Northwest who keeps a healthy, active starter. That person spreads the starter onto wax paper, dries it out and then breaks it into pieces and grinds them up into a grainy mixture to mail prospective bakers.
The whole process takes about a week, Buckingham said. Because there are so many requests right now, she's expediting envelopes that include a donation. Once bakers receive the dried starter, they can follow instructions on carlsfriends.net to revive it.
Though the preservation society exists solely to fulfill requests for Griffith's starter, Buckingham said it hasn't ever promoted its cause. The starter's legend travels primarily by word of mouth, both in-person and online.
One reason Buckingham thinks it's become so popular is because making a sourdough starter from scratch is a “crapshoot,” relying on having robust wild yeast in the atmosphere and on the grains to kick-start fermentation. Many commercial flours have been refined to the point where they maintain little or no natural yeast, Buckingham said, and some might include pesticides. There's also the risk a starter could mold in the fermentation process.
If you can procure an already established starter, you can start making bread almost immediately.
But that's when the baker's work is just beginning, Buckingham noted. “You have to understand this is a pet. It's a live thing and it does need care and feeding. It's not like commercial yeast. It's a different creature.”
Buckingham recalls seeing an uptick in the number of requests filling her mailbox after The New York Times and The Chicago Tribune gave passing shout-outs to the starter in news articles, as well as at the beginning of the pandemic when raising sourdough became a popular hobby for house-bound Americans.
Still, she's never seen anything like the influx of enthusiasm as of late. Her volunteer gig of more than two decades has turned into a full-time job with few signs of slowing down.
The flood of requests has been so overwhelming that some members of the preservation society have floated the idea of charging for the starter. That wouldn't be true to the spirit of the project, Buckingham said: “It was about continuing the old pioneer tradition of giving whoever wanted it sourdough, because it's food. Especially back in the day, bread was everything.”