A toast to the classic beer can chicken
Beer cans are both grilling utensils and flavor enhancers in the backyard barbecue classic beer can chicken.
Grilling is often a key player in summertime celebrations. Even though the health crisis prevents us from hosting large gatherings, the grill can still be the culinary cornerstone of marking the occasion.
On daily early-morning walks with my husband, the conversation often spins around to the food. Discussion of beef shortages led my spouse to come up with a brilliant idea. Why not cook up some beer can chicken, a dish we adore but haven’t concocted for years? Indeed.
The process is fun, a mix of purpose and whimsy. The bird turns out succulent and moist inside, with a luscious, crisp exterior enhanced with a tasty rub, plus the alluring scent of smoke. Barbecuing the chicken perched upright straddling a half-full brew container yields irresistible results.
I use barbecue guru Steven Raichlen’s formula from his fourth grilling book, “Beer-Can Chicken — and 74 Other Offbeat Recipes for the Grill” (Workman, $12.95). The book offers delectable recipes for chickens riding cans.
To make it easy, vertical roasters are sold that hold the beer can and bird in place. Sometimes I opt to use this gizmo, but Raichlen’s directions have the bird flying solo. You don’t need one unless you’re nervous about the can tipping. It’s helpful to have heatproof gloves and long tongs.
While the fully cooked bird rests off the heat, throw some blanched artichokes on the grill. Not only are they scrumptious, most of the preparation can be done in advance. Blanched until tender ahead of time, basted with chive butter and then grilled before serving, they seem to be adored by all. A tasty dipping sauce on the side takes them over the top. One of my favorite sauces to accompany the artichokes is made from a recipe borrowed from Walt’s Wharf in Seal Beach, Calif.
Basic beer can chicken
Yield: 2-4 servings INGREDIENTS
1 (12-ounce) can beer 1 (3 1⁄2- to 4-pound) chicken 2 tablespoons all-purpose barbecue rub (see recipe) or your favorite commercial rub 2 teaspoons vegetable oil 2cups wood chips or chunks (preferably hickory or cherry), soaked 1hour in water and/or beer to cover, then drained
DIRECTIONS
1: Pop tab off beer can. Pour half of beer (3⁄4 cup) over soaking wood chips or chunks, or reserve for another use. Use church-key-style opener to poke 2additional holes in top of can. Set aside. 2: Remove packet of giblets from body cavity of chicken and set aside for another use. Remove and discard fat just inside body and neck cavities. Rinse chicken in cold water and drain and blot dry, inside and out, with paper towels. 3: Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of rub inside body cavity and 1⁄2 teaspoon inside neck cavity. Drizzle oil over outside of bird and rub or brush it all over skin. Sprinkle with 1tablespoon rub and rub it all over skin. Spoon remaining 1 1⁄2 teaspoons of rub into beer through hole in top of can. Don’t worry if beer foams up; this is normal. 4: Hold bird upright, with opening of body cavity at bottom, and lower it onto beer can so the can fits into the cavity. Pull chicken legs forward to form a sort of tripod, so bird stands upright. The rear leg of the tripod is the beer can. 5: Tuck tips of wings behind chicken’s back. 6: Set up grill for indirect grilling (if using charcoal grill, dump or rake glowing coals in 2 piles at opposite sides of grill and place drip pan in middle; if using 2-burner gas grill, light one side and put chicken on unlit side). If using gas grill, place wood chips or chunks in smoker bowl or in smoke pouch and preheat on high until you see smoke, then reduce heat to medium. 7: When ready to cook, if using charcoal grill, toss all wood chips or chunks on coals. Stand chicken up in center of hot grate over drip pan and away from heat. 8: Cover grill and cook chicken until skin is dark golden brown and very crisp, and meat is cooked through (about 180 degrees on instant-read thermometer inserted in thickest part of thigh, but not touching bone), 11⁄4 to 11⁄2 hours. If using charcoal grill, you’ll need to add 12 fresh coals per side after 1hour. If chicken skin starts to brown too much, loosely tent bird with aluminum foil. 9: Using long tongs, grasp can, and using another set of tongs to steady chicken, carefully transfer chicken and can in upright position to platter. Present bird to your guests. Let chicken rest 5minutes. Carefully lift chicken off can: Work over sink or roasting pan to catch any liquid. Wearing heatproof gloves, hold chicken slightly at angle with 1 hand and carefully pull out can with other hand (you may need to twist or wiggle it to loosen it). To prevent burns, take care not to spill hot beer. Or, you can hold chicken with 1 set of tongs and remove can with another set of tongs. Halve, quarter or carve chicken and serve.
Source: “Beer-Can Chicken — and 74Other Offbeat Recipes for the Grill” by Steven Raichlen (Workman, $12.95)
All-purpose barbecue rub INGREDIENTS
1⁄4 cup coarse salt (kosher or sea) 1⁄4 cup dark brown sugar 1⁄4 cup sweet paprika 2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper Cook’s note: When using rub, be careful not to contaminate it. Scoop what you need from container; do not touch uncooked chicken with spoon and return spoon to container.
DIRECTIONS
1: Put salt, brown sugar, paprika and pepper in small bowl and stir to mix. Your fingers actually work better for mixing rub than spoon or whisk does. 2: Store rub in airtight jar away from heat and light; it will keep at least 6months.
Grilled artichokes with dipping sauce
Yield: About 6 servings
INGREDIENTS
4artichokes (preferably large globe artichokes) 1 tablespoon coarse salt 1 lemon, cut in half 6tablespoons melted unsalted butter, or extra virgin olive oil, or a mix of both 2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh chives Salt and pepper to taste Vegetable oil or canola oil for oiling grate Walt Wharf’s dipping sauce Cook’s notes: For dipping sauce, combine 1⁄2 cup mayonnaise, 3tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, 2 tablespoons olive oil, 2 tablespoons Asian-style roasted sesame oil, 1 1⁄2 tablespoons honey, 1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice, 3⁄4 teaspoon seasoned salt (such as Lawry’s). Cover and chill up to 24 hours.
DIRECTIONS
1: Bring about 1 gallon of water with 1 tablespoon of salt to a boil in a large pot. Cut thorny tips off artichoke leaves with kitchen scissors (optional). Trim 1⁄8 inch off the stem end. (The rest of the stem is edible.) Using a sharp chef’s knife, cut each artichoke in half lengthwise. Using a melon baller or grapefruit spoon, scrape out and discard the “choke” (the clump of fuzzy fibers just above the heart). Rub cut parts of artichoke with lemon. 2: Place artichokes in boiling water; cook until just tender, about 20minutes. Use a metal skewer to test for doneness; it should pierce the artichoke with just a little resistance. Do not overcook: the artichokes should remain firm. Drain the artichokes in a colander, running cold water over them until they are cold. Position the artichokes upside down and drain them well on a wire rack covered with a dish towel or paper towels (can be cooked ahead to this stage and refrigerated for up to 24 hours). 3: Stir chives into the melted butter or olive oil in a small bowl. Preheat grill to high. Brush or scrape grill grate clean and oil it well. Brush the cut sides of the artichokes with chive butter and dab more butter between and over the leaves. Season with salt and pepper. Grill for 2 minutes, then give each a quarter turn to lay on a crosshatch of grill marks. Baste the tops of the artichokes with the chive butter, dabbing it under the leaves. Turn and grill until browned on both sides. Serve with dipping sauce (see cook’s notes).
Source: Steven Raichlen’s “Barbecue Bible” and Walt’s Wharf in Seal Beach, Calif.