The Middletown Press (Middletown, CT)
Two more autumn recipes using apples
Keeping an eye out for the best autumn recipes
Whether baked into a pie, dipped in peanut butter or eaten from the core, apples are a true favorite.
At the beginning of the month I published the first of two columns featuring apples, one of the season’s signature ingredients.
Whether baked into a pie, dipped in peanut butter or just eaten straight from the tree, apples are a tried and true favorite for millions of people in America and around the world.
The second apple book recently added to my collection is “Apples: From Harvest to Table” by Amy Pennington (© 2013, $21.99, St. Martin’s Griffin). The book is filled with helpful practical information regarding which types of apples are better for snacking, and various cooking techniques. If you have ever wondered which apple to select among the many varieties available, you’re not alone.
Varieties differ when it comes to taste, tartness, texture or cooking technique, making it important to choose the right apple to get the best results for your recipe. I found appleforthat.com quite helpful as well. The website provides information on the perfect apple to use plus recipes and tips on storing, and health benefits. Using the right apple can make or break your recipe.
I learned that some of the best baking apples are Granny Smith and pink lady, because these varieties hold up well under high heat, retaining a firmer texture. For fruit platters and snacks, honeycrisp is a good choice because of its crunch and refreshing sweetness. For applesauce, Fuji or golden delicious work well due to the sweetness and soft textures.
Pennington’s book is a celebration of apples and all they have to offer. This apple dedicated cookbook contains 50 seasonal, easy to follow recipes for delicious sweet and savory meals, as well as additional resources and activities. Although apples are ubiquitous with crisp fall days, these recipes could, and should, be made yearround. You will find recipes appropriate for breakfast lunch and dinner.
There is something to please every taste with a range of recipes including: Butternut squash and apple soup, apple-caraway soda bread, apple-stuffed pork loin, hard ciderbraised short ribs with apple slaw, and whole wheat apple and yogurt cake.
Use your crop for Pennington’s recipes for sautéed Brussels sprouts and apples and her apple and winter squash tian. For Pennington’s recipe for the apple almond tart, visit bit.ly/2dxFi5c.
The author writes, “Pairing bitter Brussels sprouts with sweet fall apples creates a nice contrast. The secret to this dish is allowing the Brussels sprouts to brown, coaxing out their sweetness. Apple bits are tossed in during the last few minutes of cooking — just enough time to cook the fruit through without it breaking down. All in all, you are aiming for a perfectly al dente dish here, where natural flavors reign. The addition of toasted pine nuts warms it up and adds heartiness.”
Suggested for both recipes here: Select firm apples that retain their shape when cooked. Try pippin, cortland or Granny Smith.
Sautéed Brussels Sprouts & Apples INGREDIENTS
¼ cup pine nuts 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 tablespoon unsalted butter ½ pound Brussels sprouts, halved (about 2 cups) 1 medium apple, cut into equal-sized large dice (about 1 cup) Salt and freshly ground pepper
INSTRUCTIONS
In a small sauté pan, toast the pine nuts over medium heat until brown, about 3 minutes. In a medium saucepan, add the olive oil and butter over medium-high heat. When the butter is fully melted and starting to foam, add the Brussels sprouts in a single layer. (It’s okay if they overlap slightly, but do not let them get more than 2 layers deep.) Turn the heat down to medium and cook, leaving the sprouts undisturbed, for 4 minutes. Don’t stir! This allows the bottoms to brown and caramelize. After 4 minutes, stir the sprouts completely, so the browned sides are mostly up. Leave in the pan to caramelize undisturbed for another 4 minutes. When the sprouts are browned on both sides, stir again and add the diced apples. Stir every 2 minutes or so until the apples are just soft, about 6 minutes more. Add the toasted pine nuts, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve. Makes 2-4 servings. Pennington wrote, “A tian is a shallow earthenware baking dish, but any shallow baking dish will work in this recipe. Tians are very similar to gratins, but tend to have exposed fruits or vegetables whose edges, left uncovered, crisp up and caramelize. The beauty of a tian is in the presentation, so take care to cut your apples and squash precisely and layer them in neat rows.”
Apple & Winter Squash Tian INGREDIENTS
1 medium butternut squash neck (about 10 to 12 ounces), peeled 3 medium apples, cored 1 cup heavy cream 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper ¼ cup grated Parmesan ¼ cup chopped fresh parsley ¼ cup chopped fresh thyme 1 tablespoon olive oil
INSTRUCTIONS
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Prepare the butternut squash by slicing the neck in half lengthwise. Slice into thin half-moons. Prepare the apples by slicing each in half lengthwise. Slice into thin half-moons. In a medium bowl, combine the cream, salt, pepper, Parmesan, parsley and thyme. Set aside. Butter a glass pie pan or baking dish. Stack the apple and squash slices vertically in the pan with the flat edges of the slices along the bottom of the pan. Alternate squash and apples and work in tidy rows, resulting in a pretty, evenly domed tian. Pour the heavy cream mixture between the rows. The cream should come almost to the top of the pan, but will not cover the slices completely. Brush the tops of the apples and squash with olive oil. Bake until the squash and apples are completely cooked through and golden brown, 35 to 40 minutes. Serve immediately. Makes 4 servings.
Send us your requests
Which restaurant recipes or other recipes would you like to have? Which food products are you having difficulty finding? Do you have cooking questions? Send them to me. Contact Stephen Fries, professor and coordinator of the Hospitality Management Programs at Gateway Community College, at gw-stephen. fries@gwcc.commnet.edu or Dept. FC, Gateway Community College, 20 Church St., New Haven 06510. Include your full name, address and phone number. Due to volume, I might not be able to publish every request. For more, go to stephenfries.com.