The Middletown Press (Middletown, CT)
A culinary tour of Clearwater Beach
After traveling inland to visit Lake County for 2016’s Hidden Gems, I’ve returned to Florida’s Gulf Coast, once again, for 2017’s feature.
With a nearly unrivaled 2½ miles of white sand beach, marinas, gorgeous hotels, resorts, food establishments and myriad recreational and sporting adventures to experience, I could not have landed in a better place than Clearwater Beach, where excellent and eclectic culinary explorations abound. After last week’s storm, isn’t it time to get a little warmth and sunshine at a beachfront resort that enriches the spirit and inspires the soul?
Clearwater Beach has been ranked the best beach in the United States by multiple news outlets and magazines. It was designated the best beach town in Florida in 2013 by readers of USA Today. My assessment: it is deserving of these distinctions.
The Sandpearl Resort (sandpearl.com, 727-4412425), my beautifully appointed, classy home away from home, is both perfectly nestled into a gorgeous breadth of stunning pearlescent beach and an ideal location from which all of this great town can be explored on foot. The Sandpearl too has been named one of the top beach resorts in the country.
The Sandpearl Resort is situated where the former Clearwater Beach Hotel, a summer bungalow originally built in 1917, once stood. I learned that one of the most endearing traditions that has been passed along from its famed predecessor is the ringing of the dinner bell. Every night, a guest is chosen to ring the original dinner bell from the historic hotel, signaling to all on the property that sunset has fallen and a succulent dinner is awaiting them inside, at Caretta on the Gulf.
But prior to sitting down to dinner, allow me to divert for a moment to tell you about the incredible spa that awaits you. Picture yourself entering a softly lit, peaceful sanctuary where you’ll be invigorated by one of 50 signature treatments. After the signature body renewal, you too will feel relaxed, revitalized, restored and ready for dinner.
Before entering Caretta on the Gulf, take a peek into the past with photos depicting the resort’s history. There are also over 50 gallery-quality works of art, which include a nod to historic Clearwater Beach. “Caretta caretta” is Latin for “loggerhead sea turtles,” those peaceful creatures that grace the shores.
The signature restaurant is proud to be Clearwater’s only AAA Four Diamond restaurant. With food as spectacular as the panoramic view, you will enjoy seasonally inspired cuisine. In addition to the standard menu, there is an all-natural organic menu with expertly paired organic wines.
My feast began with a top-notch bread service: IPA-infused sour dough bread and pretzel rolls and Vermont creamery butter and whole grain mustard with orange blossom honey. A creative beet salad, my starter, included spinach, sorrel, Bermuda Triangle cheese, hazelnut brittle, and a zesty lemon vinaigrette. I am a fan of quinoa, so the quinoa stir fry was my chosen entrée: pan-seared bean curd, organic vegetables, bean sprout salad and soy vinaigrette. I can’t believe I passed on the all-natural center cut filet, Kansas City strip and Cowboy ribeye from Harris Ranch Beef.
To make up for the healthy entrée, I indulged in the cinnamon bread pudding (cinnamon roll, bruléed brandy apples, cranberry compote, vanilla crème anglaise). Yes, it is as heavenly as it sounds and worth every calorie. To watch Executive Chef Steve Jordan prepare panseared grouper with butternut squash and wild mushroom risotto, visit bit.ly/2krn35K. For the recipe, visit bit.ly/2lvWb5z.
During dinner you can watch the chefs prepare ceviche, sushi, sashimi and oysters at the raw bar. Everything a sushi lover could dream of! Caretta on the Gulf is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
I enjoyed a relaxing lunch at the resort’s Tate Island Grill, which provides a laid-back setting, just inches from the sand and adjacent to the lagoon pool. “Island Openers” included coconut shrimp with mango pineapple chutney and grouper nuggets with creole remoulade. The pulled pork burger (Angus beef, topped with BBQ pulled pork, fried jalapenos, white cheddar, lettuce and tomato) caught my eye for the entrée. A Key Lime parfait — think a deconstructed pie (creamy key lime, Italian meringue, graham cracker crumble) — was the sweet ending to lunch.
At a return lunch visit, I went with the Cajun salmon salad (blackened salmon, baby greens, cucumbers, feta cheese, red onion, grape tomatoes, Kalamata olives, balsamic vinaigrette). Delicious fare is complemented with an extensive cocktail menu featuring the signature Blue Pearl, a frozen concoction of Cruzan coconut rum, crème de banana, coconut and a blue Curacao swirl.
As the sun sinks into the Gulf, relax in one of the Adirondack chairs around the beachside fire pit while selecting from a varying list of 10 different flavorful mojitos and tempting frozen specialties.
For a quick breakfast, coffee or snacks throughout the day, The Marketplace in the resort lobby is the perfect spot.
If you have kids in tow and want to leave them to have fun while you explore, the resort’s Camp Ridley is the answer. The mascot, Ridley the Turtle, is named after the Kemp’s ridley turtle which is found in the Gulf of Mexico and in the area surrounding the Sandpearl. The children’s activity program is designed specifically for guests ages 5-11.
I needed to make a return visit to eat at Sea Guini (seaguini.com, Opal Sands Resort), the Sandpearl’s sister property a mile away. Experience an epicurean journey featuring locally caught seafood and house-made pastas.
This visit’s starter was gamberetti (prosciutto di parma-wrapped jumbo shrimp, arugula, bruschetta tomatoes, tangy balsamic, lemon burro sauce). The rustica pizza (roasted foraged mushrooms, Asiago, mozzarella, house-made pomodoro sauce and torn basil) is up there with New Haven pizza! I remembered savoring the artfully presented torta di ricotta limon with amarena cherries, lemon chips and white chocolate from my last visit, so I indulged in this dessert again.
You are bound to visit one of Frenchy’s four locations in Clearwater Beach (Frenchy’s Original Café, Saltwater Café, Rockaway Grill, and South Beach Café), all within a mile of each other. Frenchy’s is known for fresh fish since Frenchy himself owns a seafood company, operating a fleet of boats that line-catch grouper and snapper among other fish.
During my visit to the Original Café I wanted to try one of the specialties, grouper cheeks, only to find out they were out. Second choice was the grouper sandwich served with pineapple coleslaw. Fresh off the boat! Many of the original items from 1981 remain on the menu; smoked fish spread, seafood gumbo and boiled shrimp. Travel Channel’s “Best Places I’ve Ever Been: Beach Eats” and Food Network Magazine’s “50 States, 50 Sandwiches” have recognized Frenchy’s, among many other media.
Clear Sky Beachside Café (clearskycafe.com) serves breakfast with an upscale twist. The “Bennies” (think eggs Benedict) are prepared in seven ways, including: Oscar crab Bennie (toasted English muffin topped with Maryland crab meat and poached eggs, Hollandaise sauce and asparagus; filet mignon Bennie (toasted English muffin, tender filet mignon, mushrooms, poached eggs and Hollandaise); and my selection, the Nova Scotia Bennie (English muffin topped with smoked salmon, sautéed spinach, poached eggs and Hollandaise).
The java French toast, prepared with coffee-flavored cinnamon egg batter and served with cinnamon butter, gave me extra caffeine to get the day started. Other French toast options include almond, pecan, banana, Nutella and a new addition, cinnamon bun French toast. On the weekends, check out the Bloody Mary bar.
Looking for beach eats? Pearly’s (pearlysbeacheats.com), with its Key West vibe, is the perfect spot for casual fare, or as they say, Gulf Coast grub. I tried the mix and match tacos (one each of fish, chicken and shrimp). The other options are brisket, beef and pork.
Bob Heilman’s Beachcomber (heilmansbeachcomber.com) has been around since 1948. A complimentary relish tray includes chopped beets with horseradish, corn relish, apple butter and cottage cheese with chives. The apple butter was perfect to spread on the freshly baked banana walnut bread, ginger molasses muffins and dinner rolls. But don’t eat too many, dinner is yet to come.
Beachcomber original recipe lump Maryland crab cakes with a perfectly spiced Gulf Coast remoulade started dinner. The roasted tomato soup with burnt basil risotto and toasted pine nuts was perfect for this somewhat cool Florida evening. This was followed by pan-seared wild Atlantic halibut with lemon basil pesto accompanied by vegetable Parmesan risotto.
The perfectly cooked New Bedford sea scallops, pan-seared with roasted red peppers and Tequila lime butter was bursting with flavor. House-made coconut cream pie, light and topped with toasted coconut, made for an incredible sweet ending. It was suggested by a fellow diner that next time I try the Back-to-the Farm Chicken, a signature dish, prepared to order. Bell & Evans chicken is fried in a Dutch oven skillet and served with fluffy whipped potatoes, pan gravy and fresh vegetables. Heilman’s is known for the finest cuts of beef; juicy, aromatic, buttery and bursting with robust flavor. The wine aficionado won’t be disappointed with a cellar of 20,000 bottles consisting of 750 labels.
The outside of Basimo Beach Café (basimobeachcafe.com) is non-descript, but it is what is served inside that counts. Local and organic non-GMO food and smoothies with many vegetarian options makes it easy to eat well while on vacation. “Basimo” is Aramaic for “delicious,” and that is what their hummus is, served with warm pita and assorted vegetables. One sip of the PB&J smoothie (apple juice, blueberry, banana, peanut butter and pineapple), you will think you are drinking a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Their organic and fair trade coffee is expertly prepared.
Serious Cookie Co. sells some serious cookies — each one is a half pound! — available in chocolate chip, chocolate chip with pecans, peanut butter, oatmeal raisin, white chocolate macadamia and dark fudge brownie. A half-pound cookie isn’t enough? Try their cookie sundae.
A visit to a bakery or two is always on my agenda. Two, a short drive away, were suggested by locals.
Joey Biscotti (joeybiscotti.com, 813-716-6401) is a small-batch bakery. As the owners said, rustic gourmet is what they are all about. Biscotti, of course, is on the menu, available in many flavors like cranberry orange, cinnamon toast, chocolate coconut, cherry pistachio, Mexican mocha, chocolate hazelnut and, for purists, classic. Also available to sweeten your day are layer cakes, cheesecakes, pie, tarts, brownies and seasonal favorites.
20 Shekels Bread (20shekels.com, 727-2795415) features artisan sprouted breads. The most popular, the Ezekiel, uses the six key ingredients necessary to be called Ezekiel bread. It is made from a recipe found in the Bible.
Owner Marni Atherton said, “With the recognition that the world’s healthiest bread had already been invented, our efforts are directed toward fine-tuning the flavor. We spend extra dollars on the best-quality ingredients that will yield the best product.” She prepared a sampling of several products for me to taste; Ezekiel, sprouted organic chocolate blackberry bread, sprouted organic carrot cake, coconut peanut butter bread and sprouted organic walnut and pear bread.
For more about Clearwater Beach visit clearwaterbeach.com and beachchamber.com.
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