The Middletown Press (Middletown, CT)

New Haven restaurant­s in spotlight

Connecticu­t magazine places eateries on Best of 2021 list

- By Douglas P. Clement, James Gribbon and Mike Wollschlag­er — Mike Wollschlag­er, writer and editor at Connecticu­t Magazine (Twitter: @MikeDouble­U_) — Douglas P. Clement, freelance writer, former senior and digital editor of Connecticu­t Magazine (Twitter: @

New Haven doesn’t exactly have a shortage of options when it comes to finding a great place to eat so it should come as no surprise that Connecticu­t Magazine mentioned three different New Haven restaurant­s in their “Best Restaurant­s 2021: The Top 15 Restaurant­s in Connecticu­t” list.

House of Naan

Chef Harinder Singh began with tried-and-true Indian favorites at his family’s restaurant, Sitar, in New Haven, but has since made a departure from both at House of Naan. The House opened in late 2016 with a few nods to the old ways — importing spices whole from India, then crushing, roasting and preparing them in-house — then uses the ingredient­s for craveable tikka fries, naanaco tacos, tandoors and chaats with a twist. Speaking of twists, the House cocktail selection, with drinks like the Howe Street Tea (including Bulldog gin with Asian botanicals, Darjeeling tea syrup, and chickpea water) are as flavorful and on-brand as the food. Our writers agree: this modern Indian kitchen is a gem of the Elm City.

— James Gribbon, contributo­r to CTbites.com (Twitter: @GribWrites) Located at 65 Howe Street. 203562-6226 • houseofnaa­n.com • Instagram: @houseofnaa­n

Tavern on State

From the very beginning in June 2019, owners Emily Mingrone and Shane McGowan wanted Tavern on State to be a community-oriented

establishm­ent where people could get quality food and drink. Tavern immediatel­y wove itself into the fabric of East Rock without pretense, using simple, straightfo­rward ingredient­s and methods.

The food and drink menus rotate with the seasons, and now Mingrone has the luxury of full access to awhole animal butchery just a few doors down on Upper State Street.

Spawned by the pandemic, Provisions on Statewas launched this fall to not only serve the neighborho­od but to provide Mingrone with even more options to feed her creativity.

Tavern on State was recognized as Newcomer of the Year at the Connecticu­t Restaurant Associatio­n awards in December 2019. And as much as Mingrone and McGowan talk about their local community, a meal at their restaurant is worth the drive from anywhere in Connecticu­t.

Located at 969 State Street. 475202-6883 • tavernonst­ate.com • Instagram: @tavernonst­ate

Union League Cafe

One of Connecticu­t’s finest restaurant­s since opening in 1993, Union League Cafe across from Yale University on Chapel Street is the equivalent of “a man for all seasons.” The French-inspired brasserie with an elegant but welcoming atmosphere is that rarefied establishm­ent that flawlessly delivers fine-dining experience­s of several different types to its varied clientele.

Old-world charm, including a hearth fire in chilly weather, renders the main dining room the most formal space, and most suited to a lingering, three-course meal that might feature the signature escargot dish, served with garlic, parsley, tomato concassèe, and croutons, and the Lobster & Jura Wine entrée, a half, butter-poached Maine lobster with butternut squash risotto, Oregon chanterell­es, sautéed chestnut, Jura wine and lobster bisque. The wine list is deep and fabulous, and particular­ly strong in red and white Burgundies.

Meanwhile, the bar in the back offers a more casual space for enjoying Prince Edward Island mussels with a glass of Loire Valley white wine — or a craft beer like Lawson’s Sip of Sunshine. In the summer, guests flock to La Terrasse to dine outside over bottles of chilled rosé, and Sundays bring a different opportunit­y, brunch with a side of live jazz.

Throughout these “seasons” of dining, chef and founder chef JeanPierre Vuillermet and executive chef Guillaume Traversaz use their culinary alchemy to turn the freshest local and organic ingredient­s into superb dishes inspired by French classical tradition, updated with a more contempora­ry approach to flavors, textures — and aesthetics. Everything at Union League is tres magnifique.

Located at 1032 Chapel Street. 203-562-4299 • unionleagu­ecafe.com • Instagram: @unionleagu­ecafe

This excerpt is from an article that originally appeared in Connecticu­t Magazine. You can subscribe at.ezsubscrip­tion.com/CTM/ subscribe. asp, or find the current issue on sale at www. connecticu­tmag.com/connecticu­tmagazinea­rticle_8cf9c7cc-e350-11e6-9fa0-0f 45614cb96b.html. Sign up for the newsletter at bit.ly/38tLuv7to get the latest and greatest content from Connecticu­t Magazine delivered right to your inbox. On Facebook and Instagram@connecticu­tmagazine and Twitter @connecticu­tmag.

 ?? Peter Hvizdak / ©2016 Peter Hvizdak ?? House of Naan Indian Kitchen and Bar on Howe Street in New Haven.
Peter Hvizdak / ©2016 Peter Hvizdak House of Naan Indian Kitchen and Bar on Howe Street in New Haven.
 ?? Winter Caplanson / Contribute­d photo ?? Union League Cafe
Winter Caplanson / Contribute­d photo Union League Cafe
 ?? Winter Caplanson / Contribute­d photo ?? Roasted bone marrow with orange-fennel glaze from Tavern on State.
Winter Caplanson / Contribute­d photo Roasted bone marrow with orange-fennel glaze from Tavern on State.

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