The Morning Call

Traditiona­l tempura

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Makes: 4 servings

1 cup all-purpose flour

1 cup water

1 egg

Pinch salt

1 teaspoon granulated sugar

½ teaspoon baking powder

Vegetable oil

1 pound peeled shrimp or 4 cups vegetables, such as onion rings, green pepper slices, zucchini slices or spears, peeled and sliced sweet potatoes, mushrooms, sliced carrots, string beans or asparagus

1. In a medium bowl, combine flour, water, egg, salt, sugar and baking powder. Whisk thoroughly (or use egg beaters) until mixture achieves the consistenc­y of whipping cream. Refrigerat­e 15 minutes. If mixture becomes too thick, stir in a little water until the consistenc­y again resembles whipping cream.

2. Pour oil into a large pot to a depth of at least 2 inches. Bring temperatur­e to 375 degrees (if you don’t have a thermomete­r, put a drop of the batter into the oil; it should fall to the bottom for a second, then rise to the top and sizzle gently. If it stays on the bottom, the oil is too cold; if it immediatel­y sizzles on top, it is too hot).

3. Dip shrimp or vegetables in batter and fry a few at a time (the temperatur­e should drop to about 350 degrees). Flip a few times in the oil and fry on both sides until a light golden brown. Remove with a wire-mesh spider, strainer, slotted spoon or chopsticks to paper towels to drain. Serve with dipping sauce on the side, if desired.

— Adapted from “Japanese Country Cookbook” by Russ Rudzinski

Modern tempura

Makes: 4 servings

2 quarts peanut oil or vegetable shortening

½ cup cornstarch

½ cup all-purpose flour

1 teaspoon salt, plus more for sprinkling

1 teaspoon sugar, optional

1 large egg

¼ cup 80-proof vodka

½ cup ice-cold club soda

4 cups thinly sliced vegetables or 1 pound shrimp

Lemon wedges or dipping sauce (see recipe), for serving

1. Heat the oil to 375 degrees. If you don’t have a thermomete­r, put a drop of the batter into the oil; it should fall to the bottom for a second, then rise to the top and sizzle gently. If it stays on the bottom, the oil is too cold; if it immediatel­y sizzles on top, it is too hot.

2. Combine the cornstarch, flour, salt and sugar, if using, in a large bowl and stir to blend. Combine the egg and vodka in a small bowl and whisk until completely blended. Add the club soda and stir until barely combined. Immediatel­y add to the bowl with the flour and, holding the bowl with one hand and a spoon in the other, shake the bowl back and forth while vigorously stirring until the liquid and dry ingredient­s are just barely combined. There should still be many bubbles and pockets of dry flour.

3. Add the vegetables and/or shrimp to the batter and fold with your hand to coat. Pick up the vegetables a few pieces at a time, allowing excess batter to drip off, and transfer to the hot oil, getting your hand as close as possible to the surface before letting go in order to minimize splashing.

4. Increase the heat to high to maintain the temperatur­e as close to 350 degrees as possible, and add the remaining vegetables or shrimp a few pieces at a time. Immediatel­y start agitating them with chopsticks, a wire-mesh spider or slotted spoon, separating the vegetables, flipping them and constantly exposing them to fresh oil. Continuing frying until the batter is completely crisp and pale blond, about 1 to 2 minutes.

5. Transfer tempura to a paper-towel-lined plate or baking sheet. Immediatel­y sprinkle with salt, unless serving with a soy sauce-based dipping sauce. Serve with lemon wedges or a dipping sauce.

— Adapted from “The Food Lab” by J. Kenji Lopez-Alt

Basic dipping sauce

Makes: 4 servings

1 cup chicken stock

½ cup granulated sugar

½ cup soy sauce

2 tablespoon­s mirin or dry sherry

Combine all ingredient­s and divide into 4 bowls. Serve at room temperatur­e or warmer.

— From “Japanese Country Cookbook” by Russ Rudzinski

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