The Morning Call

Tips for planting spring-flowering bulbs

- Sue Kittek Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@ gmail.com or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, PO Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.

As we head toward mid-October, it’s time to plant spring-flowering bulbs. Here, I am using the term “bulbs” although we know that there are tubers, corms and other options — in addition to bulbs.

While you can plant them anytime before the ground freezes, it is much better to do it now. The soil is still warm, which gives the bulbs a chance to establish roots before winter. Bulbs that already have roots next spring can devote their strength to growing stronger greens and flowers earlier.

The first concern is: Do you have space in your garden for bulbs? Beds that hold summer annuals, new beds, space under trees before they leaf out, and containers are all viable options. You can also interplant them in your perennial and shrub beds.

Do you have the proper conditions? Most bulbs dislike heavy clay soil and/or poor drainage. If your soil is heavy, consider loosening it up by digging in organic matter such as compost or adding sand or peat. Incorporat­e into the soil to improve the texture, weight, water retention or drainage. Make sure that the soil does not stay muddy after rain. Redirect guttering downspouts or use extenders to drain problem areas.

Many need a minimum of six hours of sunlight. But remember, spots that are shady after the trees leaf out, may be in full sun during the spring,

Another concern is what sort of wildlife damage occurs in your garden? Different bulbs are attractive to different animals and some, like daffodils or alliums, are resistant to most animals.

What to plant? When you have these answers, you are almost ready to start selecting bulbs. Check what growing zone the bulbs you like need and make sure you have room for the fullsized plant. Then, find some bulbs that suit your conditions. Most packages or item descriptio­ns include everything you need as well as pictures and planting depth and spacing.

How many? Calculate the number by using your available area, the spacing needs of the bulb, the effect you want to create and your available budget for the project. Are you planting a new bed, filling in available space in an existing one; scattering groups in small clusters to look more naturalize­d; or filling a container. Bulbs are most effective when plants are in clusters. Even large bulbs look best in threes; tiny ones may look best with eight to twelve.

Other options to consider. You can extend the display by selecting varieties that bloom at different times like early, mid- and late-blooming tulips or

by planting totally different bulbs like crocus or snowdrops, irises, daffodils and tulips intermixed. However, be sure to plant each type of bulb at the right spacing and depth.

Prepare for planting. Clear the area of weeds and loosen the soil at least a few inches deeper than the deepest planting depth. Consider mixing in bonemeal or superphosp­hate into the soil or sprinkle bulb fertilizer in the bottom of the hole.

Plant. Dig holes to the proper depth for each bulb or clear a larger area to plant a cluster of bulbs at the same time. Place the bulbs at the proper depth (listed on package or item descriptio­n) adjusting them for adequate spacing and place with the root down/point up. Refill the hole(s) and tamp down. Water the area and mark the spot. Note what is planted where. Areas may be mulched if desired.

Protect. It is not uncommon for rodents to dig up and eat bulbs. There are commercial taste deterrents available but some gardeners dust the bulbs with hot pepper powder.

Bulb cages, wire boxes can be constructe­d or purchased. Place the bulbs in the cage and plant the closed cage at the proper depth, covering the hole with soil.

Yet another option is to cover the tamped planting area with hardware cloth or chicken wire to discourage digging while allowing the bulbs to grow through.

In spring, sprouting bulbs will be tempting to the wildlife, so either plant ones that nobody likes to eat (daffodils, alliums) or protect with wire cages or taste deterrents.

Don’t confuse terms. Remember when you are purchasing bulbs that spring-blooming flowers are planted in the fall and usually need 8 to 12 weeks of 40°F or cooler for proper blooming. Spring-planted bulbs are usually planted after the last frost and bloom in the summer. Most, like dahlias, cannas, elephant ears and such are not hardy, so they must be stored indoors or sacrificed to the cold.

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 ?? FILE PHOTO ?? Dahlias require saving a tuber and a piece of the old stem; some gardeners keep the cluster together.
FILE PHOTO Dahlias require saving a tuber and a piece of the old stem; some gardeners keep the cluster together.

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