How to keep deer out of your yard
Would you please consider writing about deer and groundhog repellents that actually work to protect gardens? Please consider writing about it soon? Perhaps you can ask readers for tips that work for them.
I use pie tins attached to short stakes on string, chunks of Irish Spring soap and commercial deer sprays and animal repellents sold at Herbein’s. All may help, but none help enough.
Also recently learned about cayenne pepper, which I now sprinkle right on corn ears when they are forming.
I hate to go to the expense of turning my large garden into Fort Apache with tall fencing. But that may be the only solution. There seem to be more deer in the yard every year. They rule the night. And the groundhogs seem undeterred by anything.
Thanks
— Randy Kraft
Randy has certainly tried a number of solutions but as he mentioned, the best and most reliable solution is exclusion, using a high fence around the garden. Other options are available but not nearly as effective.
Frightening options
A dog, one in a limited area by a physical or invisible fence. However, the dog and the deer must be in the area at the same time. Care and feeding of the dog should be calculated to be sure this is a practical decision for any garden. The dog must be large and preferably there is more than one. Please remember that deer are not totally defenseless and can injure
any harassing dogs. Motion detecting
devices that emit sounds or streams of water offer some protection.
Fireworks: I also found references to fireworks, strobe lights, ultrasonic devices, monofilament lines and more. These offer limited defense as the deer become familiar with the item and learn that nothing bad happens.
Repellents: Repellents vary in method and effectiveness. Note that odor deterrents stink and while deer are more sensitive to the scent, it may make the area unpleasant for human activities.
Odor and taste repellents often include putrescent
whole egg solids.
Ammonium soaps of higher fatty acids are present in some products registered for use on edible crops. It is only effective for two to four weeks, depending on weather and may need reapplication after heavy rains.
Urine (predator and human), Milorganite (byproduct of sewage treatment plants), putrefied meat scraps, and bags of human hair are often mentioned by gardeners as useful. These may be effective but stink. Also some questions have arisen concerning the humanity of collecting predator urine
Additional substances used as odor deterrents
include: Moth balls, lime sulfur, Thiram, shredded deodorant soap, creosote, nicotine, ammonia. Remember that some of these items may be successful in discouraging deer but are no longer considered safe or appropriate for garden usage. So check the efficacy and safety of any home remedy before using. Mothballs may work but are not considered safe. Nicotine and ammonia are also harmful substances.
Taste: While taste may be a deterrent it is important to note that each offending deer needs to decide that the plant tastes bad. In areas with lots of deer, plants may still be
heavily damaged. Also, hungry deer are not nearly as picky when food sources are lean.
Thiram is a fungicide used most often on dormant trees and shrubs. It also acts as a taster repellent.
Hot Sauce based repellents contain capsaicin and is available for ornaments and fruit trees. It is sprayed on new growth before the fruits set. On vegetables, as on fruit trees, apply only before the development of edible plant parts.
Dried animal blood: Available as a powder concentrate or prepared liquid and is acceptable for use on organic gardens. However, do not apply to plants/plant parts for human consumption.
Sprays containing hot pepper, garlic, rotten eggs, glue, and castor oil are also sold as taste deterrents.
Deer-resistant plants: There are plenty of lists of resistant plants and they are less likely to be eaten but, again, remember that hungry deer will eat almost anything.
Placement: There is some protection in putting the most desirable deer fodder furthest away from the fields, woods or wherever the deer either your garden. Use less desirable plants, like those that are highly aromatic, fuzzy, thorny or have a milky sap on the edges of the garden.
Conclusion: Excluding barrier deterrents like fencing, all other options should be rotated. Familiarity with the deterrents and their locations will make deer braver. Keep them off balance by changing the methods or areas where you deployed your items.
Next week we’ll look at effective rodent controls.
In our garden
I have noticed a few hummingbirds in the garden. Seems a bit early but they are always a welcome sight. We have to get some good nectar plants this week to keep the birds around. While I know that most honeysuckle plants in the wild are invasive species and I do what I can to keep them out of our yard, the scent on a warm spring afternoon is still wonderful. Lately, we have been treated to that sweet familiar scent coming from a nearby undeveloped area.