How to grow thriving Calibrachoa plants, flowers
I love flower gardening. I recently planted these to outline my patio. Labeled a “Proven Winner,” they are not winning too well. I must be doing something wrong.
Upon leaving my local florist, the salesperson made a comment that stuck with me, she stated “don’t use Miracle Grow, they don’t like it.” I thought to myself, that is crazy advice and used Miracle Grow anyway. I also deadhead them, which she said was unnecessary. Should I have heeded her advice?
I appreciate your help. Thank you.
— Vicki Geunes Calibrachoa is a small, trailing mounding plant, grown as an annual. The flowers are small and resemble petunias. The plant is popular as container plants but can be used in the ground. It blooms until the first hard frost.
This plant does best if grown in a container or location with well-drained soil. It requires little care and self-sheds spent blooms. Calibrachoa can get a little leggy or look spent and will merit an occasional trim, particularly in July and August, Trimming will stimulate new growth and more branching.
Since it dislikes constantly moist soil, allow the top layer of soil to dry between waterings and avoid planting in low areas or anywhere that is constantly wet. In the ground, this flower will do best in a raised bed.
Proven Winner, the company marketing Creamsicle, recommends regular fertilizing with a 24-12-17 (N-P-K) water-soluble fertilizer.
So, what could be Vicki’s
problem with her calibrachoa plants? I would first check for overwatering or constantly damp soil. This situation will result in root rot and poor performance.
Does the location get enough sunlight? These plants will grow in light shade but do better with more sun.
What about the clerk’s warnings? She was quite correct that this calibrachoa is self-shedding, so deadheading is not needed.
The fertilizer question is a bit more difficult. I have found that using Miracle Grow too often can produce abundant greenery but few flowers. But, nutrient uptake is also affected by the soil pH, too high or too low can make soil (and fertilizer) nutrients unavailable to the plant even if present in the soil. A good soil pH for this plant is 5-6.5.
White core in tomatoes
What’s with tomatoes these days? Can you explain to all the gardeners why
today’s tomatoes have a nasty hard center? It seems you have to cut about half of the tomato away! Are all the tomatoes of the future going to be this way? I’ll be waiting for your reply. Thank you for your great column!!!
— Hal Serfass, Macungie The white core in tomatoes is usually the result of stress, most commonly heat stress and/or over-fertilization. The central core turns greenish-white and tough. The tomato walls can also become pale and corky.
According to an item, Tomatoes Hard Core, from Kansas State University and Extension Office (https://hnr.k-state.edu/ extension/info-center/ common-pest-problems/ common-pest-problemnew/tomato-hard-core. pdf ), the internal structure of older varieties and newer ones can differ.
Older varieties often have a series of five distinct cavities with the seeds and goo (technically, locular jelly) and the walls join in the center to form
the core. Newer ones are generally bred for more meat and the seeds are dispersed in small cavities throughout the fruit.
High temperatures, particularly as the tomatoes ripen, can cause white cores to develop. The condition is made worse if the plants are over-fertilized.
To lower your chances of developing white cores in your tomatoes, grow varieties described as meaty rather than juicy. Don’t try to nudge plants to grow in high temperatures by applying additional fertilizer. Remember, tomato plants do not grow during extended periods of temperature extremes.
A problem with ferns in hanging baskets
I love ferns. What is wrong with the ferns you buy at the store? Three years in a row I tried them. All have the same condition. The ferns are packed tight in the pot. You can’t tell if
they need water. The fronds dry up and the leaves fall off. Then you water and it drains out the bottom. Can’t tell if they have bugs. Are there ferns just for outside? What am I doing wrong? Thank you.
— Harriet Sigley, Bethlehem
I have always had problems with pre-planted fern baskets. The plants, as Harriet stated, are tightly packed in the pot with little soil. There are a few options:
Buy smaller ferns and repot a few in a basket hanger.
Repot those packed ferns, dividing if necessary, adding soil.
Water frequently, often daily, in warm weather. Try dunking the pot in a bucket of water, allow it to sit for a few minutes, and then let it drain. It will still make a water mess but at least the ferns should get a bit more water.
If anyone has alternative suggestions for Harriet’s ferns, please let me know and I will pass them along.
Sue Kittek is a freelance garden columnist, writer, and lecturer. Send questions to Garden Keeper at grdnkpr@gmail.com or mail: Garden Keeper, The Morning Call, PO Box 1260, Allentown, PA 18105.
Week in the Garden
Planting: Start sequential sowing of crops like beans, radishes, lettuce, and spinach to create a longer harvest season. Set out tomatoes when the weather warms to at least 50°F at night. Wait a few weeks before setting out basil, eggplant or pepper transplants.
Start seed for salsify, eggplant, summer squash and winter squash.
Direct sow snap, bush and pole beans, cantaloupe, melons, cucumbers, rhubarb, summer and winter squash.
Continue sewing celeric, celery, cabbage, carrots, collards, bunching onions, onion sets, parsnips, and Swiss chard.
Plant or pot up summer bulbs and tubers such as dahlias, cannas, calla lilies, and caladiums. Plant bareroot trees and shrubs. Make sure the soil is dry enough to work. Don’t dig or plant in mud.
Buy annuals for containers, annual garden beds and to fill in bare spots in perennial or shrub beds. Follow your schedule for starting seeds. Check packets for instructions such as start indoors four weeks before last frost date. Then, using a calendar, count back from your area’s date (April 10-15 for southern Lehigh Valley, May 10-15 for northern areas) for the appropriate starting time.
Seasonal: As the weather warms, ease out your plants that wintered over inside. Start with an hour or so on a warm day and increase outdoor time until the nights are regularly in the 50°F
range before leaving them out for the season.
Visit nurseries as they open for inspiration as well as new plants. Shop for summer bulbs as well.
Apply a top dressing of compost to lawns and beds. Test soil for new beds, Retest soil in poorly performing areas or those that haven’t been tested in the last 3-5 years. Cut back ornamental grasses. Divide when you see new green growth. Divide hostas and daylilies.
Prune and divide perennials that bloom in late summer or fall. Prune back and clear out dead, diseased or unattractive stems from perennials and shrubs, but not those that flower in the spring. Please check proper pruning information for each plant and prune as needed and recommended.
Apply spring and summer mulch, two to three inches deep and placed a few inches away from foundations, tree trunks and other plants. Fluff mulch and add more if necessary. Apply corn gluten-based weed control in the garden and establish a schedule for reapplication, usually at four to six-week intervals
Lawn: By mid-May, dethatch, seed or overseed lawns. Apply broadleaved weed control and complete sod projects. By mid-June, apply spring fertilizer treatments. Apply preemergent crabgrass control in the next few weeks. Fill in holes and low spots in lawn.
Chores: Water any recent plantings anytime the ground isn’t frozen and we experience a week with less than an inch of rain. Fix damaged screens and garden hoses. Note damaged caulking around doors and windows.
Dump standing water and remove anything that may collect rainwater to help control mosquito populations. Provide deer, rabbit and groundhog protection for vulnerable plants. Reapply taste or scent deterrents.
Clean and fill bird feeders regularly. Clean up spilled seed and empty hulls. Dump, scrub and refill birdbaths at least once a week. Consider setting out nesting materials if you have them.
Clear gutters and direct rainwater runoff away from house foundations.
Tools, equipment, and supplies: Store winter equipment and replace or repair as needed.
Check spring/summer equipment — repair or replace damaged or worn out tools. Check power tools and mowers and send for service if needed.
Safety: Clear lawns of debris before mowing and make sure pets, children and others are well away from the area being mowed.
Store garden chemicals indoors away from pets and children. Discard outdated ones at local chemical collection events. Photograph storm damage before clearing or repairing for insurance claims and file promptly.
Any time you are outside and the temperatures are about 50°F or warmer watch for tick bites. Use an insect repellent containing Deet on the skin. Apply a permethrin product to clothing. Wear light-colored clothing, long sleeves, hats and long pants when working in the garden.
Stay hydrated. Drink water or other non-caffeinated, nonalcoholic beverages. Even in cold weather, apply sunscreen, wear hats and limit exposure to sun. Wear closed-toe shoes and gloves; use eye protection; and use ear protection when using any loud power tools.