The Morning Call

Shortage of main ingredient halts hot sauce’s production

- By Christine Chung

A fixture at Vietnamese restaurant­s, sriracha sauce can lace aromatic pho with a jolt of heat. It’s the star ingredient in spicy mayonnaise zigzagging countless sushi rolls, and has even inspired fans to dress up for Halloween each year like a red plastic squeeze bottle with a green cap.

But this year, a shortage of red jalapeno chiles has threatened it all for sriracha, a beloved condiment made from sun-ripened peppers from Mexico and seasoned with vinegar, salt, sugar and garlic.

Huy Fong Foods, a company based in Irwindale, California, that produces one of the most popular sriracha sauces in the world, confirmed that it was experienci­ng an “unpreceden­ted shortage” affecting all of its chilebased products, which also include chile garlic sauce and sambal oelek.

In a statement by email, a company representa­tive said that the issue stemmed from “several spiraling events, including unexpected crop failure from the spring chile harvest.” Huy Fong Foods generally goes through 100 million pounds of chiles each year, the representa­tive added.

The company had foreshadow­ed the sriracha scarcity in an April letter to customers announcing that unfavorabl­e weather conditions had resulted in a “severe shortage” of chiles.” It said that all orders placed after mid-April would be paused until September.

“Unfortunat­ely, this is out of our control and without this essential ingredient we are unable to produce any of our products,” the company wrote.

A persistent drought this

year in Mexico hindered irrigation and caused “spectacula­rly low yields” of the red chiles, which are grown primarily in four northern states of the country during the first four months of the year, said Guillermo Murray-Tortarolo, who researches in climate studies at the National Autonomous University of Mexico.

Climate change is a possible factor causing the drought, Murray-Tortarolo said, adding that the drought is likely to intensify and cause future production issues and cost increases for customers.

In the 2013 documentar­y “Sriracha,” David Tran, the founder of Huy Fong Foods, described the enduring popularity of sriracha and how he started it all.

After the Vietnam War ended in 1975, Tran landed in Los Angeles, where he decided to make sriracha, a sauce believed to have been invented by a Thai woman. By 1980, he was mixing his sauce and delivering orders in his Chevy van. Over the ensuing decades, interest in sriracha exploded, Tran said in the documentar­y.

In 2013, he said, company was making 70,000 bottles of the sauce daily from red jalapeno peppers.

Now the squeeze bottles are a prized commodity for panicked customers who are clearing grocery store aisles and rationing the last of their stash.

Joyce Park, a longtime sriracha fan who lives in Seattle, said she grabs bottles whenever she sees them at the store, an instance that she described as increasing­ly rare. Park had hoped to marinate meat in sriracha to serve at her upcoming backyard barbecue wedding. She said she might instead use Tajin, a Mexican chile-lime salt product.

“I only have like three bottles. What am I going to do?” Park, 53, said. “It’s an emergency but there are other spicy foods hopefully.”

On Twitter, others posted images of hopeful expedition­s in search of sriracha. Some who were unsuccessf­ul said they had to resort to purchasing alternativ­e sriracha brands.

Other companies, such as Mother-in-Law’s Kimchi, that also use Mexican chiles for their products, said they were bracing for impact.

“It hasn’t trickled down yet to a smaller supplier like me yet but I think that just means it’s coming,” said Lauryn Chun, who founded Mother-in-Law’s Kimchi in New York City 13 years ago.

The chile shortage was yet another obstacle in two years of supply chain woes, Chun added.

As for what the future holds, Huy Fong Foods said in a statement that it was hoping for a “fruitful fall season.”

 ?? EMILY BERL/THE NEW YORK TIMES 2014 ?? Huy Fong Foods says a crop failure has halted production of its sriracha sauce.
EMILY BERL/THE NEW YORK TIMES 2014 Huy Fong Foods says a crop failure has halted production of its sriracha sauce.

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