SAVORING SUMMER 3 easy dishes, one near-effortless dinner party
AB y David Tanis |
few thoughts about summer cooking: It should be bold, flavorful, refreshing. It should take full advantage of the season’s fresh produce. And, if possible, it should be consumed outdoors.
It should also be casual — easy to pull off without much exertion.
One rule of thumb for anxiety-free entertaining is to cook as much the day before as possible. I often find doing a little prep work in the cool early morning means I’m more relaxed when guests arrive in the evening. Keeping the menu simple is key too: You don’t want to be a harried host.
I’d say these dishes — a hearty, kicky potato salad and something quickly pan-seared (or grilled), followed by something sweet and fruity — do the trick.
I adore potatoes in any fashion, and that goes double for potato salad. Most recipes for American-style potato salad call for some variation on a mayonnaise-based dressing, with pickle relish and celery. That’s fine, and comforting, but lately my preference has been for a French-style
Ice
2 large eggs
2 large egg yolks
Zest of 1 lemon cup lemon juice cup granulated sugar 6 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
potato salad dressed in vinaigrette. This version is infused with Indian flavors and finished with a tadka of cumin and mustard seeds popped in oil. Run through with chiles and topped with cherry tomatoes, scallions and cilantro, it has a colorful, perky personality. I served it with crisp romaine leaves on the side, but it could also be spooned into lettuce leaf “cups.”
To accompany, I wanted something simple, rubbed with a heady, piquant spice mix, and sent to the table with lime wedges. The boneless center-cut pork chops at the butcher looked good but too thick for my liking, so I asked for a more reasonable (and easier to cook) ¾-inch-thick cut instead. Then I mixed up a dry marinade with salt, sugar, ground coriander and various red pepper powders, including the smoky Spanish 2 cups all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting
1 tablespoon baking powder 1 tablespoon granulated sugar, plus more for sprinkling
teaspoon kosher salt (such as Diamond Crystal)
4 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, cut into small pieces
cup cold buttermilk 1 cup heavy cream, chilled
2 to 3 tablespoons granulated sugar, to taste
A splash of vanilla extract (optional) 1 pint blackberries
Prepare an ice bath. In a mixing bowl, whisk together whole eggs and egg yolks. Add lemon zest, lemon juice and sugar, and stir to dissolve.
the bowl over a pot of pimentón de la Vera and a healthy pinch of cayenne.
The chops are then seasoned with it on both sides and left to cure for at least an hour or up to a day in advance. Since loin chops are quite lean, you’ll want to cook them about two minutes per side over medium-hot coals or in a medium-hot cast-iron pan. Dusting the chops with more pimentón, just before serving, gives them a bright-red kick.
Berry season is the time for shortcakes, the classic dessert bedecked with berries, whipped cream and a freshly baked sconelike biscuit. I also add a dab of sweet-tart lemon curd, perfect with blackberries. To have all the components on hand, you’ll need to be organized. Make the curd up to a week in advance and, for extra points, cut the biscuit rounds ahead and have them in the freezer ready to bake (though it’s certainly possible to do it all the day of ). Sandwich the curd, whipped cream, berries and biscuits on individual dessert plates and serve. Or, if you prefer, have all of the elements set out for guests to build their own. simmering water (or use a double boiler). Whisk mixture until hot to the touch. Add the butter and continue whisking until mixture is the consistency of pudding. Remove bowl from heat and set in the ice bath to cool, stirring occasionally. (Makes about 2 cups. Lemon curd will keep refrigerated in a covered container for 1 week.)
Heat oven to 450 degrees. In a large bowl, sift together flour, baking powder, sugar and salt. Add butter and, using your fingers, work it into the flour mixture. Add buttermilk and stir until mixture forms a soft dough.
a work surface and knead dough lightly. Roll out or pat dough into a rectangle about ¾-inch thick. Punch out circular shapes with a floured drinking glass or biscuit cutter.
rounds on a parchmentlined baking sheet and sprinkle each with a pinch of sugar. Bake for 12 to 15 minutes, until lightly browned. Let cool completely.
Put cold cream in a medium chilled bowl or the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment. Add 1 tablespoon sugar. Whip cream, just until soft peaks form. Add vanilla extract, if desired.
berries in a bowl and add 1 to 2 tablespoons sugar. Toss, mashing a few, and let macerate for at least 10 minutes (or up to an hour).
biscuits horizontally and place on dessert plates. Put a spoonful of whipped cream on each biscuit bottom, then some lemon curd and berries, and finish with a big spoonful of whipped cream. Replace biscuit tops and serve.* 6 servings
35 minutes
2 pounds small, yellow-fleshed potatoes
Salt and pepper
2 garlic cloves, smashed to a paste or grated
3 tablespoons lime juice or white wine vinegar
1 teaspoon ground turmeric 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 3 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon mustard seeds 1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 pint cherry tomatoes, halved 1 tablespoon kosher salt 1 tablespoon pimentón de la Vera or smoked paprika, plus more for dusting
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
teaspoon ground coriander A small pinch of ground cayenne
Cilantro sprigs, thinly sliced scallions, thinly sliced Fresno and serrano chiles, for garnish
Lettuce leaves, for serving
over high heat, boil skin-on potatoes in salted water until just done, about 15 minutes, then drain in a colander and allow to cool.
stir together garlic, lime juice, turmeric and Dijon mustard in a small bowl. Whisk in 3 tablespoons olive oil, and season with salt and pepper. Taste and adjust seasoning.
are cool enough to handle, cut potatoes into halves or quarters. Place in a low serving bowl. Pour dressing over potatoes and toss very gently to keep from them breaking.
remaining 1 teaspoon olive oil in a very small skillet over medium heat. Add mustard seeds and cumin seeds. When seeds are fragrant and begin to pop, tip them onto potatoes, then toss lightly to distribute.
salad with cherry tomatoes, cilantro, scallions and sliced chiles. Serve with crisp lettuce leaves. 6 boneless pork chops, cut ¾-inch thick (about 2 pounds)
Olive oil, for drizzling and searing Lime wedges, for serving
In a small bowl, stir together kosher salt, pimentón, sugar, coriander and cayenne.
Carefully sprinkle teaspoon marinade over the surface of each chop. Repeat on the other side of the chops. Drizzle a little olive oil over each chop and rub into the meat on both sides. Refrigerate for at least 1 hour or up to 2 days.
bring chops to room temperature. In an oil-filmed cast-iron pan over medium-high heat, and working in batches to avoid crowding the pan, cook just until chops are lightly browned and firm to the touch, for about 2 minutes per side. Transfer to a serving platter and dust with more pimentón. Serve with lime wedges.