It’s deluxe

A mushroom burger that’s glorified by chilies and cheese

Some of the greatest chilies you’ll ever eat hail from New Mexico’s Hatch Valley, which is why — naturally enough — tiny Hatch, New Mexico, is known as “The Chili Capital of the World.”

This being the season for Hatch chilies, I thought it might be fun to showcase them at one of your very own backyard parties, perhaps over Labor Day weekend.

There’s something about the soil and growing conditions in that region of New Mexico that creates the uniquely delicious flavor of the Hatch chili, just as the “terroir” of the world’s great wine-growing regions produces the best grapes. Hatch chilies are long and green, boasting a thick skin and thick flesh.

Their heat ranges from mild to flaming hot.

Local folks tend to buy these local favorites already roasted and in 25-pound bags, and then to store the chilies in their freezer for use throughout the year.

The rest of us can snatch them up in supermarkets from coast to coast or online in smaller amounts, already charred and peeled.

If you’re open to charring and peeling the pepper yourself, just apply the same methods you’d use with any other chili: hold it with tongs over an open gas flame, or char the skin on a hot grill or cast-iron skillet, or place the chili under a broiler until it’s blackened on all sides, then transfer it to a bowl and cover it with plastic wrap for 20 minutes. After the chili’s had a chance to steam, the tough skin peels off easily.

Roasted Hatch chilies are one of the signature ingredients of the well-loved Green Chile Cheeseburger. Here I’ve swapped out the beef in favor of Portobello mushrooms.

You’ll be looking for specimens with large caps because they shrink down when they’re cooked.

And be sure to scrape out the gills before cooking the mushrooms (grapefruit spoons do a terrific job) because they become slimy when cooked and proceed to dye whatever they touch an unappealing black.

Even without the beef, this burger is deluxe.

It’s glorified not only by the chilies and cheese, but also by the smoky mayonnaise spread, and — the finishing touch! — the crushed tortilla chips.

It’s a splendid way to celebrate the end of the summer season.

There’s something about the soil and growing conditions in that region of New Mexico that creates the uniquely delicious flavor of the Hatch chili, just as the “terroir” of the world’s great winegrowing regions produces the best grapes. Hatch chilies are long and green, boasting a thick skin and thick flesh.

SARA MOULTON VIA AP Green chile cheese portobello burger