The Morning Journal (Lorain, OH)
The magic of Le Moulin de Connelles
Old mill along the Seine an idyllic rest stop 90 minutes from Paris
Cruising along the Seine to arrive by boat at Le Moulin de Connelles was an enchanting way to spend a late-summer afternoon in Normandy. From the cabin cruiser taking us to the old mill-turned-inn, we saw the verdant French countryside with Normandy’s white cows grazing in the distance and, traveling along the river in the opposite direction, loaded barges bound for Paris — 90 minutes away by car.
Despite its romance, the 483-mile-long river Seine is an important commercial waterway in the north of France, navigable from Rouen, passing through Paris and flowing on into the English Channel at Le Havre.
I’d last cruised on the Seine aboard the Bato-Bus, a hop-on-hop-off glasssided Paris tourist boat with nine stops including the Louvre, Eiffel Tower, historic gardens and Notre Dame. It was a great way to see the sites above ground and rest from walking between Metro stops.
But this cruise would take us to our night’s lodging in an old mill transformed into an inn with 12 rooms and suites. Our luggage was going to the private island by car, so the five members of our group were unencumbered.
Until the 1870s, when the flour milling business shut down, the mill — Le Moulin de Connelles — served farms and the village of Connelles (population 196) since opening in 1683.
“My father fell in love with this place 30 years ago,” said Karine Petiteau, in her slightly British-accented English.
“Our family was living in Spain then, so (we) moved here to begin the restoration.”
Its dining room has acquired acclaim under the direction of chef Eric Legende, and people come here from Paris and Rouen to dine.
“Our overnight guests always get preference for dinner reservations,” said Petiteau.
It’s especially festive at Christmas, she said, with lighted candles and decorated trees everywhere.
After enjoying a welcome glass of Calvados on the stone patio, some of us chose to borrow a boat for rowing among the lily pads outside the mill or exploring the small island. The island includes separate living quarters for staff members because of its remoteness.
A brand-new pool has an enviable site above the river.
“Two years ago, the river flooded and damaged our pool, so it’s been replaced in a better location,” Petiteau said “It’s been a great adventure.”
I discovered an allee of matching trees nearby and walked in their lengthening shadows before grabbing a chair to watch rowers paddling their boat as if it were a canoe, but without much success.
Before long, it was time for dinner.
My curiosity prompted me to order an appetizer of creme brulee foie gras, a rich, tasty beginning at a white tablecloth, formally set table. Recommended French wines were poured with each course.
The evening’s special, ginger caramelized duck, was intriguing, but I instead ordered the rabbit terrine and monkfish celeriac. Others had the lamb shank with ratatouille or the poultry with cider glaze and camembert. After
meeting the chef and realizing he spoke no English, I asked about how the English-speaking staffers got on. Most, it turned out, were bilingual.
I introduced Petiteau to Geauga County chef Loretta Paganini by email, and now the two are working to arrange an internship at Le Moulin de Connelles for a student at Paganini’s International Culinary Arts & Sciences Institute in Chester Township.
You can be sure I’ll return.