Cheesy Baked Grits a deeply satisfying staple

A kind of carbo-licious porridge made from dried and coarsely ground corn, grits are to Southern cuisine what potatoes are to Northern cuisine — a deeply satisfying staple. Like squash, tomatoes and deep-pit barbecuing, grits came to define Southern cooking via the cuisines of such southeast American Indian tribes as the Caddo, Choctaw and Seminole.

These days we’re starting to see grits all over the country. Often they’ll show up at breakfast seasoned with salt and pepper, topped with a pat of butter and nestled alongside some bacon and eggs.

But wonderful as they are, grits can be a chore — if not slightly dangerous — to make. I’m speaking of regular oldfashioned stone-ground grits, which trump “quick grits” and “instant grits” in both flavor and texture.

Made the usual way, old-fashioned grits need to be stirred relentlessly to avoid clumping. You also have to handle with care; this hot mush has a tendency to bubble up and burn the cook.

Here’s a way to avoid those problems: Make it in the oven instead of on the stovetop. You simply combine the grits and the liquid in a ceramic pie dish (a total of 10 minutes hands-on time) and pop it into the oven for 45 to 50 minutes. Then stir in the flavorings — sharp cheddar cheese, in this case — and it’s done. How easy is that?

One note, though. The ceramic pie plate (or any shallow ceramic baking dish with the same capacity) is key. Pie plates made of metal or glass do not conduct heat as effectively.

Sara Moulton is host of public television’s “Sara’s Weeknight Meals.” She was executive chef at Gourmet magazine for nearly 25 years and spent a decade hosting several Food Network shows, including “Cooking Live.” Her latest cookbook is “Home Cooking 101.”

SARA MOULTON VIA AP Cheesy baked grits