The News Herald (Willoughby, OH)
Hook & Hoof ‘meats’ high expectations in Downtown Willoughby
Some kinks on a busy night don’t take away from Willoughby restaurant’s appeal
It was one of those perfectly imperfect nights.
A handful of aspects to a recent meal at the still-newish Hook & Hoof New American Kitchen and Cocktail — the slightly upscale eatery was opened by co-owners Chaz Bloom and Hunter Toth in the spring — didn’t quite go according to plan. Thanks to generally excellent food and make-up-formishaps service, however, that ultimately didn’t matter.
I can’t peg the first issue on the restaurant. It was I who waited until a Wednesday afternoon to try to make a reservation for 7 p.m. that Friday. Told the only way to accommodate our party of four was to sit us at the chef’s table — a bar-like row of seats in the back of the restaurant that faces the kitchen, which is separated by glass and offers a view of the cooks doing their thing — I took it. It wouldn’t be ideal for four-way conversation, but I thought the view would be interesting. It was, but a couple of objects in the kitchen against the glass blocked some of that view for me and another gent, Brian, while the ladies, Cassandra and Caterina, didn’t have that issue seated to our left.
I eagerly perused the extensive menu of cocktails, wines and beers. Seriously, that thing has to be between 10 and 15 pages, boasting a full page of signature cocktails and another with classics. Wanting to try one of the H&H Originals and, after talking things over with our friendly and knowledgeable server, Mike, I went with The Black Flag ($12), which mingles Eagle Rare 10-year bourbon, Amaro Averna, a house-made brandied Amarena syrup and Aztec Chocolate Bitters. Dark and mysterious, it looked and tasted like a chocolate-influenced oldfashioned, and I loved it.
Cassandra, the only other person partaking in alcohol this night, found her Mai Tai ($10), off the H&H Classics page, to be very refreshing.
For the table, we ordered a couple of appetizers. I steered us toward the Smoke Kissed Clams and Mussels ($13) over the Shrimp Cocktail ($13) after Mike said the former was more shareable. And I’d been told the Lamb Belly Meatballs ($12) was a must-try.
The seafood appetizer, prepared with small chunks of Salume Beddu chorizo in a broth of Mexican lager and coconut milk and served with toasted baguettes, was served in a fairly large pot. You do not get shortchanged on the nicely seasoned clams and mussels here. The chorizo added to the punch of the broth, I think, and I soaked up some of that broth with the bread. Truthfully, though, I wouldn’t have minded a soup spoon.
The meatball appetizer, meanwhile, was fine. I was expecting my lamb meatball — one of three — to taste drastically different from a more typical beef variety, but it was very similar. I merely enjoyed it, while Brian — who wasn’t touching the seafood — went to work on the heavy sauce the meatballs were sitting in with a baguette and was quite pleased with the flavor.
Hook & Hoof has an appealing menu for carnivores and pescatarians — true vegetarians can go for the Wild Mushroom and Artichoke Ravioli ($23) or salads ($6 to $10), while vegans should find another restaurant — but two specials offered this night really caught the attention of our group.
Brian and I were taken by the description of the Braised Wild Boar ($27), shredded seasoned meat atop sweet cornbread and summer succotash and enhanced by horseradish crema and smoked paprika Carolina barbecue sauce. Mike, though, wasn’t sure if the kitchen still had two servings of the entree left; if there was only one, I said, I would go with the Tomahawk Pork Chop ($27). That cut of meat — another recommendation I’d gotten prior to my visit — is served with fingerling potatoes and Brussels sprouts and topped with local apple and green tomato chutney and accompanied by a bit of that horseradish crema.
There was ongoing confusion when it came to the boar special, Mike originally reporting they did have two remaining, only to return later, apologetically, with contradictory information. Hey, restaurants run out of items — especially specials — and the small place was packed. It was understandable.
Cassandra ordered the other special, Crab Manicotti ($24), with sweet pepper puree and lemon beurre blanc, while Caterina chose the tantalizing Shortrib Stuffed Shells ($23) off the menu.
The night grew increasingly imperfect as we waited for our entrees. As the time marched on, I ordered an Old Fashioned ($9), and that, too, was not quick in arriving. Mike came to apologize for all the delays and offered a round of drinks on the house, with mine included. Cassandra was the only taker; she settled on one of their signatures, the Door #3, with El Jimador Reposado Tequila, absinthe, pineapple poblano, H&H orgeat, lemon juice and IPA floater. Both cocktails were excellent; the old fashioned was one of the best-balanced I’ve ever had, and while I worried Cassandra’s drink would be too spicy for her, she loved it. (I was given the task of finishing it later in the evening and concurred it was delicious.)
Imperfectly, our entrees arrived at different times, that elusive boar special taking the longest. Along the way, Brian learned the restaurant had run out of the succotash and would have to substitute Brussels sprouts, which disappointed him. Mike told him he’d be receiving a gift card for the inconveniences — turns out it covered a little more than the cost of the entree — and in my book Hook & Hook handled the unfortunate circumstance close to perfectly.
Ultimately, the entrees all were at least borderlinespectacular — all complex dishes beautifully plated. I was allowed to sample everything, and the specials were every bit the knockouts they sounded. Seriously, those need to go on the menu, the crab in the manicotti and the zesty shredded boar the best things I tasted all night.
Theirs is a restaurant with room to improve, but you cannot argue with the food and drinks, which is most important.
Caterina was happy with her shells — perhaps the best-looking of the dinners — and I with my fairly massive chop, which was nicely cooked and seasoned. However, it wasn’t so memorable that I’d likely order it again, not with Cast Iron Swordfish ($29) or a Butcher’s Cut (market price) on the menu.
If you’re looking to spend a little less at Hook & Hoof, there’s a tasty-sounding and dress-up burger for $15.
As much as we’d eaten, we were full without feeling bloated, so Cassandra and I couldn’t pass on splitting the Creme Brulee Cheesecake ($8). A lovely ending to the meal, the dessert somehow was not too sweet or heavy.
Yes, Hook & Hoof has some imperfections. Brian noticed some exposed wiring in the kitchen where a light fixture should have been and a bit of dirt on his appetizer plate — nothing that would have given me pause, however. Plus, the small, understated space — almost unrecognizable from its preceding days as the home of Fanucce’s Italian Restaurant & Pizzeria — is a little noisy when packed with diners, but Bloom says acoustic paneling is set to be installed in the coming days.
Bloom is the bartender, while Toth is the head chef, and each is bringing great things to the table. Theirs is a restaurant with room to improve, but you cannot argue with the food and drinks, which is most important.
I look forward to a time when I can revisit, when it’s not quite so busy or late in the evening. Should be perfect.