RESTAURANTS
Louis Armstrong, adorns the walls alongside snapshots of life in Bridgeport. The themes come together in the freeform creation of Sawyer’s dishes, and cocktails made by mixologist Razul Branch, made “Always With Love.” It’s a formula which netted 29 Markle Ct. the 2023 Newcomer of the Year Award at the 2023 Connecticut Restaurant Association Awards, the CRAzies. — JG
29 Markle Ct., Bridgeport
Alma Bistro
Cuisine: Latin American
Alma popped onto our radar by word of mouth. The style of cooking the restaurant calls Nuevo Latino incorporates flavors and styles of cooking from throughout Central and South America, as well as the Caribbean, with a few Mediterranean influences mixed in. It seems to have struck a chord with diners from both sides of the nearby New York border, and our experience, starting with corn bunuelos and tuna crudo tostadas, and continuing through gambas chorizo (shrimp and sausage), and an outstanding grilled octopus, did much to explain the concept’s popularity.Chefs chef Ulises Jimenez (Barcelona, Don Rene Taqueria) and Norberto Lucero (Brasitas) lead an inventive kitchen staff, while Fransico Sanchez (Tacomida, Chaplin) has crafted compelling cocktail creations of his own, such as a martini made with Jack Daniels apple whiskey, horchata and a dash of blackberry liqueur. Something from here, something from there, and something good everywhere. — JG
83 Wall St., Norwalk
Andiamo
Cuisine: Italian
On our first visit to Andiamo, the hostess told us, “We are like an old-school sauce joint, serving Northern Italian like what your grandmother would make.” And, oh boy, she was right! The spaghetti and meatballs with marinara, Parmesan and whipped ricotta is comfort food at its best. But ditto on the chicken piccata, shrimp scampi and pappardelle Bolognese. This place takes as much care with the starters and salads as it does with the pastas and entrées. With a nod to hometown Mystic, they even do a fresh Maine lobster pizza with caramelized onions, lobster cream sauce and ricotta salata. An eggplant rollatini appetizer pairs well with the house salad. For those with a big appetite, try the 16-ounce veal shank with saffron risotto and gremolata.Located just off Interstate 95 at Mystic’s busy Golden Triangle, Andiamo is one of a stable of local restaurants operated by Bill Middleton. The exterior is bright red with black trim, and inside it is old-world Italian with dark wood, tin ceiling tiles, chandeliers, a big horseshoe-shaped bar and redleather-covered stools and chairs. Only locals know Andiamo is housed in a former Friendly’s ice cream shop. — AB
247 Greenmanville Ave., Mystic
Aroy Thai Garden
Cuisine: Thai, Vegan
Lapat Watrous, owner of Aroy Thai Garden, takes authenticity to a whole new level with traditional Thai recipes she then tweaked to make vegan. Instead of chicken or beef, Watrous proves that a variety of plant-based proteins can form a menu that is rich in spices and flavor. “I really like to cook and make food for people,” she said when I visited in April. “If you come visit me at my home, you’re going to get the same exact recipes.”The menu offers expected Thai fare like drunken noodles and tom yum, but the variety here is mind-boggling. Five different kinds of rice are available, including blue butterfly flower rice. Yes, curry is on the menu. but there is so much more. Try the khao soi with yellow noodles, yellow curry, coconut milk, red onion, crispy noodle and choice of protein. The food simply tastes fresh. Steamed dumplings are among the dishes made to order, and you won’t find a big pot of soup sitting in the freezer. — AV
203 Main St., Middletown
Athithi
Cuisine: Indian
It’s not often you encounter a local restaurant with a connection to Michelin stars. Those crowning jewels are rare, especially in Connecticut. Executive chef Hemant Mathur, who earned his stars at New York restaurants Devi and Tulsi, designed Athithi’s Indian menu to include some of his signature tandoor-oven dishes of chicken, shrimp and lamb. Chef Chandru Krishnasamy, a veteran of some of the finest hotels in India, keeps up the good work.Samosas, an Indian restaurant standard, have a secret identity code at Athithi: half-moons with beautifully crimped edges filled with well-spiced ground lamb; folded packets rich with cheese; and tall cones holding peastudded vegetable purée. Tender chicken thighs Lasooni cooked with garlic, cilantro and green chili are just a starter, but could be a meal of their own. Kerala moilee (coconut with onion and turmeric) is traditionally served with local fish at home; at Athithi it is deliciously adapted for shrimp.The polished space has a shimmering silver-blue wall on the left, hanging lights shaded with inverted baskets and intricately embroidered pillows scattered on the banquettes — a luxurious transformation from the strip mall exterior. — FW
14 Danbury Road, Suite #9, Wilton
The Benjamin
Cuisine: French-American
When Bernard and Sarah Bouissou put their legendary Bernard’s Restaurant and Sarah’s Wine Bar up for sale, they were particular about who should take over their beloved space. Washington Prime co-owners Rob Moss and Dave Studwell stopped in for dinner on a random night with their friend, B.J. Lawless (of B.J. Ryan’s Restaurant Group), they met the Bouissous, took a tour, and fell in love with it, promising to hold up the restaurant’s French culture and to take care of the property. Now remodeled by Moss, The Benjamin — named after Benjamin Franklin and his time as an am