Thanks for the memories, chef
Editor’s Note: Paul Bocuse was one of the world’s foremost chefs. Based in Lyon, Bocuse was known for his innovative cuisine, worldfamous restaurants and is considered one of modern cuisine’s pioneers. Bocuse passed away last month at the age of 91. Oklahoma’s chef emeritus John Bennett shares this memory of meeting the iconic chef at his restaurant.
In the mid to late 1970s, I enjoyed 19 days traveling and eating in France, Cologne and Amsterdam.
I accompanied Ted and Kathleen Wilcox and a contemporary friend of mine.
Our sole purpose was to dine in seven of Michelin’s worldrenowned 3-star restaurants. In addition to making all reservations and arrangements, Ted had acquired a cache of solid silver Western belt buckles from a store in The Stockyards to present to the chefs and restaurants we felt exemplified the highest presentation of the art of cooking.
Prominent on our not-to-be-missed list was Paul Bocuse’s noted showplace, L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges.
After dressing for dinner and freshening up, we were greeted at the door by a bellman, nattily dressed in a red trim uniform topped by the oldfashioned pill box.
As we reported to the reservation desk, an elegantly dressed gentleman immediately greeted us and swept us to an opulently dressed table where the quiet efficient servers in white gloves began their finely honed service.
A welcoming glass of Champagne Royale appeared, as well as the bed-sheet size menu.
Because of the worldwide press the creation had received, we decided ahead our first course was to be Bocuse’s Truffle Soup V.G.E. — fresh black truffles in a rich sensuous broth baked in its own specially designed bowl with a golden brown dome of puff pastry.
Chef Bocuse created the soup in 1975 for a luncheon given at the Elysse Palace by President Valery Giscard d’Estaing. The occasion was set to bestow upon chef Bocuse the Legion d’Honneur, France’s highest honor of merit.
Our next course was Loup de Mer, a Mediterranean sea bass stuffed with lobster mousse, en croute — a decorated puff pastry in the shape of the fish presented table side carefully carved and served with a beurre blanc.
Then came the spectacular presentation of Poularde de Bresse en vessie, a blue-footed fat chicken raised to Bocuse’s specifications. It came truffled and steamed in an inflated pig’s bladder, arriving like a child’s balloon, then carved at the table with the black truffle steam permeating the air. It tasted like a farm-raised, free-range chicken with old fashioned flavor.
After a Poire William frozen intermezzo to catch our breath — a simple syrup combined with the famous pear William liqueur with the texture of the best slushy — two gueridon cars rolled up covered with trays of aromatic, ripe cheeses in their peak season and parked on either side of the table.
Midway through the cheese course, chef Bocuse appeared at table followed by “les chariots desserts,” two more rolling tables laden with exquisite jewel like sweets.
He suggested I have the Oeufs a la Neige (snow eggs), cloud-like poached meringues on a bed of creme Anglaise with tiny wild strawberries all crusted with golden caramel threads.
Bocuse invited us to see the kitchen and meet his batterie of chefs.
When Ted presented him with the heavy silver buckle, Bocuse was overcome and had to know all about Oklahoma and the “Wild West.” Needless to say, that called for a bottle of Krug Champagne in the kitchen.
What a grand finale to a world class experience with a true gentleman.
Rest in peace, chef. You inspired us all.