The Oklahoman

Polynesian Cultural Center explores heritage in Hawaii

- Beth Stephenson bstephenso­n@ oklahoman.com

Somewhere deep in the Polynesian Cultural Center in Laie, Hawaii, a barrel drum’s beat intensifie­s. The coconut trees rustle in the ocean breeze, and brilliant hibiscus flowers nod as if welcoming visitors. Lush, tropical plants, water features and thatch-roofed structures beckon to the curious.

Our newest state, Hawaii was a kingdom conquered by businessme­n and made a U.S. territory by taking Queen Liliuokala­ni captive and forcing her to abdicate in a bloodless coup. There has been a strong military presence in Hawaii since its 1898 annexation.

Yet Native Hawaiians continue to protect and nurture their heritage and history.

The Polynesian Cultural Center, or PCC, on Oahu is not strictly Hawaiian. Different villages are arranged around a lagoon. Visitors move from one village to the next, exploring the unique Polynesian customs of Hawaii, Tahiti, Samoa, Tonga, Fiji and New Zealand (called by its native name of Aotearoa.)

We started our day in the Samoan village. American Samoa is a U.S. territory, and the only one south of the equator.

The humorous Samoan show included making a fire by rubbing a hibiscus stick in a groove in a larger hibiscus branch until it smoked consistent­ly. When the presenter added the dry, hairy coconut husk, the embers burst into flame. It took him less than five minutes!

A moment later, another performer scampered up a coconut tree, clutching the trunk with the soles of his bare feet and then posing his lean, golden brown body for photograph­s at the top.

After showing us how to husk and then crack a ripe coconut in half, our host demonstrat­ed how to make coconut milk. The juice in the middle of a coconut is called water, but the meat is grated and then strained using the husk fiber to collect the milk. He warned us of its laxative qualities and explained that left in the sun, the milk separates into the coconut oil and remaining liquid.

Each village features different games, dances, native crafts or demonstrat­ions in addition to a unique show. In Samoa, we attempted to learn how to twirl the fire knife, how to weave a basket from half a coconut frond and how to make a fire by rubbing sticks. I did manage to elicit a few wisps of smoke.

The Haka Dance in the New Zealand village would have scared off all but the most ferocious of enemies.

After a traditiona­l welcome ceremony in Aotearoa, we were invited into the sacred gathering place. The building is intricatel­y carved and symbolical­ly painted. It stood in New Zealand and was purchased and moved to the Polynesian Cultural Center in sections. Guests are requested to remove their hats before entering.

We learned stick games in Aotearoa and spear throwing in Tonga (the letter “T” is pronounced as a “D” as Donga.) Hula lessons and Poi making/ tasting were offered in Hawaii.

Though many of the islands have their distinct legends, the legend of the Demigod Maui — who pulled up the Pacific islands from the bottom of the sea usinw his magic fishhook — is universal.

Our Polynesian immersion culminated in the evening with a traditiona­l Hawaiian luau. Poi is a common Hawaiian staple. It is made by mashing cooked taro root into a starchy lavender paste that tastes like, well, paste. It definitely needs the other traditiona­l foods to make it palatable. There was succulent whole roasted pig, chicken, beef and fish, tropical fruits, desserts and vegetables. Throughout the meal, a live show with traditiona­l music, instrument­s and lively dance never let us forget that we were in Hawaii.

Finally, an award-winning show called “Ha, The Breath of Life” summed up the diversity and unity of Polynesian cultures with exciting music and choreograp­hy, including fire dancing.

The PCC was built by the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, (Mormons) in 1963 to provide a way for Polynesian students who could not otherwise afford a college education with work scholarshi­ps. Eighty percent of PCC employees are BYU-Hawaii students who work 19 hours each week in exchange for their college expenses.

Our day at the Polynesian Cultural Center was a spectacula­r highlight of our Hawaiian adventures. It weaves island culture, history and traditions into the fabric of America, adding the colors of the aqua sea and the fiery sunset.

Only in America. God bless it.

 ?? [PHOTOS BY BETH STEPHENSON] ?? Tongan dancers entertain an enthusiast­ic crowd. LEFT: Uncovering the fire pit where the pig is roasting for the luau.
[PHOTOS BY BETH STEPHENSON] Tongan dancers entertain an enthusiast­ic crowd. LEFT: Uncovering the fire pit where the pig is roasting for the luau.
 ??  ?? BELOW: This hand-carved canoe is made from a single hardwood tree trunk and would carry 70-80 men. It is on display in the woodcarvin­g station in the New Zealand village.
BELOW: This hand-carved canoe is made from a single hardwood tree trunk and would carry 70-80 men. It is on display in the woodcarvin­g station in the New Zealand village.
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