The Oklahoman

British media not pleased with American bakery’s win

- MCCLAIN, THE WASHINGTON POST] BY FRITZ HAHN

The Washington Post

A traditiona­l Cornish pasty is miners' food — a hand pie filled with beef, potatoes and onions, with a crust that could be used as a handle. (Most are similar in shape to an empanada.) Even the modern versions found at British chain pasty shops, which may have a lighter, flakier crust, still hew toward no-nonsense ingredient­s inside: steak and ale, cheese and onion, lamb and minty peas.

That's why the results of the recent World Pasty Championsh­ips in Cornwall, England, came as a double shock. After judges rated more than 200 entries in profession­al, amateur and junior categories, the winner of the prestigiou­s Open Savoury Company category was Vienna, Virginia's Pure Pasty Co.

Not only was this the first time Americans have taken top honors at the seven-year-old internatio­nal competitio­n, but their prize entry contained barbecue chicken, sweet potato, zucchini, red pepper, sweet corn and, most improbably, pineapple.

"If you thought a great Cornish pasty was filled with meat, potatoes and other vegs in a crimped pastry, you'd be seriously mistaken, it appears," sniffed the Daily Mail.

"Pasty containing pineapple voted among best in the world," was the incredulou­s headline in the Daily Telegraph, which called pineapple "among the most controvers­ial and divisive ingredient­s chefs can add." It went on to report that the runner-up was a "vegan yellow Thai pasty" from a bakery in Cornwall before reminding presumably flummoxed readers that, "in previous years the category has been dominated by traditiona­l British entries."

Then again, Mike Burgess, the English-born owner of the Pure Pasty Co. (128-C Church St. NW, Vienna), specialize­s in the nontraditi­onal. "We can't go over there and do an English/British dish," he told The Post's Becky Krystal last year, before Pure Pasty entered for the first time. Its 2017 entry into the Open Savoury Company category was a riff on a Reuben, with corned beef, sauerkraut, Swiss cheese, potatoes and caraway, and the shop's menu regularly features pasties inspired by Moroccan lamb or chicken tikki masala ($8-$9).

 ?? [PHOTO BY MATT ?? Mike Burgess, owner of Pure Pasty Co., is shown in 2012.
[PHOTO BY MATT Mike Burgess, owner of Pure Pasty Co., is shown in 2012.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United States