The Oklahoman

North star for dining rises in Bistro 22

- BY DAVE CATHEY Food Editor dcathey@oklahoman.com

EDMOND — Found myself in the most northern reaches of the metro a few weeks ago, which landed me a terrific lunch at Bistro 22, 1417 E Danforth Rd.

Opened late last year, the new concept from chef Clay Falkner (Signature Grill) consists of a tiny dining room and kitchen offering big flavors from classic cuisine.

Chef Eric Murphy (Tommy’s, The Coach House, MMR Prime Steakhouse) is behind the stove, churning out the hits from yesterday and today.

I was with my good pal chef John Bennett for the occasion, and when escargot appeared before my eyes on the menu I knew there was no escaping it.

So I was relieved they were on point. Served in their shells, the steamed snails came with a delicious buttery green sauce with shallots and toast points. Highly recommend.

Chef Bennett had the Jumbo Lump Crab Cassoulet for lunch. Intended as an appetizer for at least two, Bennett dove hooves first into the rich, decadent mixture of cream cheese, Havarti and crab for an experience he won’t soon forget. I would, too, but I never even got a bite!

I had the Reuben on marbled rye and was immediatel­y taken back to the Reuben sandwich The Coach House used to make. Not sure if Murphy was using the same eye of round and two-week curing process he learned in the Apprentice­ship Program, but the resulting sandwich was worth the trip north.

The good news is Bistro 22

shares a shopping center with Best of Books, which means I’ll have no problem finding an excuse for many happy returns.

Layers of honor

NORMAN — On Monday, local radio personalit­ies Phil Inzinga and Jim Traber put their family lasagna recipes on the line in a cook-off at Belmar Country Club that ended in a split-decision of sorts.

The competing plates arrived at judges table unmarked so judgment was made without prejudice. Inzinga’s lasagna was the unanimous choice at judges table, which I sat at with chefs Josh Valentine and Shelby Sieg.

We thought both versions were excellent, but found Inzinga’s saucy version a touch more consistent bite-for-bite.

But Traber’s version won the hearts of the crowd by a mere seven votes.

The event filled the private dining hall at Belmar with folks who purchased tickets to participat­e and raise money for OK Kids Korral, a facility that provides lodging and services to the families of children with cancer.

Traber’s version included meatballs mixed with veal, but he admitted to forgetting to salt the meatballs as he would’ve at home. Inzinga was concerned his ricotta cheese didn’t get enough time out of the oven to set.

The dining room also was outfitted by a spread of meats and cheeses from Lovera’s Market in Krebs and salads from the Belmar staff, who also replicated the recipes for mass consumptio­n.

Quick Service

Chef Beth Lyon will introduce her new food trailer this weekend at Delmar Gardens, 1225 SW 2 St. Look for Black Cat to open Saturday. Keep an eye on my social media accounts for photos and the blog for descriptio­n (Twitter: @TheFoodDoo­d; Facebook: keyword Dave Cathey The Food Dude; Instagram: Thefooddoo­d and blogs/ newsok.com/fooddude) . ...

Uncle Julio’s, the chain Mexican concept out of Dallas-Ft. Worth, will not make it to town by Cinco de Mayo. However, the latest addition to Chisholm Creek looks poised to open May 15 . ...

Here’s a name to remember: El Tigre Tacos. Coming soon to the Iron Star Urban BBQ complex between NW 35 and 36 streets and Classen Boulevard. Word on the street is owner Bryan Oliver is moving home to share the gourmet tacos he’s learned to make living in Denver and Austin.

 ?? [PHOTO BY DAVE CATHEY, THE OKLAHOMAN] ?? A Reuben with fries from Bistro 22, which opened in Edmond in late 2017.
[PHOTO BY DAVE CATHEY, THE OKLAHOMAN] A Reuben with fries from Bistro 22, which opened in Edmond in late 2017.
 ??  ?? Escargot from Bistro 22, which opened in Edmond in late 2017.
Escargot from Bistro 22, which opened in Edmond in late 2017.
 ??  ?? Lump Crab Cassoulet from Bistro 22, which opened in Edmond in late 2017.
Lump Crab Cassoulet from Bistro 22, which opened in Edmond in late 2017.
 ??  ?? Jim Traber’s lasagna was the people’s choice at Monday’s lasagna cookoff between local radio hosts at Belmar Country Club in Norman.
Jim Traber’s lasagna was the people’s choice at Monday’s lasagna cookoff between local radio hosts at Belmar Country Club in Norman.

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